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Author Topic: easiest way to change clutch plate  (Read 955 times)

scuba

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easiest way to change clutch plate
« on: September 01, 2008, 03:05:15 PM »
As it says above, maybe I'm facing clutch plate change. Since it is still under "maybe" I would like to hear from this chorus here, what would be easies way to perform this operation on open bmw.

Thanks for chyme :)

Offline Justin B.

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Re: easiest way to change clutch plate
« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2008, 07:48:52 PM »
There's only one way.  Remove transmission, pressure plate, then the clutch disc will fall out.  There is a "procedure" and possibly some special bolts required for safely removing the pressure plate but it's really no big deal.  If you intend removing the flywheel then you will also need to block the forward end of the crank to keep it from sliding forward.  
Justin B.

2004 BMW R1150RT
1981 R100RT - Summer bike, NEKKID!!!

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: easiest way to change clutch plate
« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2008, 07:53:42 PM »
1) replace both the friction plate and it's mating piece with new parts, to ensure flat mating surfaces.

2) remove the transmission from the bike.

3) assembled, the assembly is under pressure from the spring.  You need to remove 3 of the 6 fasteners holding the clutch together - every-other one.
Then you put in your "clutch removing tools", which consist of a 3 long bolts (50mm or 2 inch) with matching nuts, in the same pitch & diameter as the ones you removed.  The nuts are placed further up the "collar" of the long bolts and will be used to release the spring pressure gradually.

4) tighten the nuts down on the clutch.

5) remove the remaining 3 fasteners with the nuts on the long bolts tight against the clutch.

6) back off the nuts in a circular fashion slowly releasing the spring pressure.

7) lay the clutch spring on a flat surface, and measure the height of the little fingers in the center.
My Haynes manual does not give a overall height, it just says "With the spring laid dished side down, the difference should not exceed 0.3 mm (.012 inches).  With the spring the other way up, the max. difference in height of the rim should be 0.8 mm (.031 inches)."
All I can say is if you think you feel any clutch slippage, of if you have near 100,000 miles on the bike, replace the spring.  I know I will when my time comes, and I only have 85,000 miles.

8) reassemble in reverse.  Be sure to thoroughly clean and inspect the input shaft to the transmission, and lube with a moly-based grease, such as Honda Moly 60.  Do not put lube on the matching splines of the clutch plate.
Put a dab on the tip of the push rod where it contacts the clutch plate.

9) check for oil leaks while you are in there.  If you find engine oil, it could be coming from the rear main seal or the oil pump cover o-ring.  You need to remove the flywheel to access these, and before you take that off, you need to block the crank so it cannot move forward and cause big problems.
The input shaft of the transmission also has a seal.  If the leaking oil has a distinct smell to it, that is probably where the leak is.


Get one each of the Haynes manual and the Clymer manual.  They have good pictures, but be aware that not only do they get some specs wrong from time to time, and also they are mostly about the bigger bikes.  Check your library if you are in a big city.
« Last Edit: September 01, 2008, 07:57:12 PM by Rob_Valdez_79_R65 »

scuba

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Re: easiest way to change clutch plate
« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2008, 05:49:05 AM »
Thanks. You confirmed what I was afraid of. I did that some years ago the way you told, and THAT was the only way. I just hoped that maybe I'm wrong and was expecting to learn something better. And what that puts in proof? That life is still a bitch.

Of course that I'll change both plates and everything else with new parts. I'm not convinced that clutch is something where man should do something half way, no matter if it is on car or a bike. That just doesn't pay. Thanks for reminder, anyway.

Sadly, again, there's no other way than the hard way, so I'll stop wailing and uluating. Instead, I'll take the matter in my own hands, light a cigarette, take sip of cold one and unscrew oil plugs. See ya'all

scuba

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Re: easiest way to change clutch plate
« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2008, 06:00:08 AM »
Quote
1)
9) check for oil leaks while you are in there.  If you find engine oil, it could be coming from the rear main seal or the oil pump cover o-ring.  You need to remove the flywheel to access these, and before you take that off, you need to block the crank so it cannot move forward and cause big problems.
The input shaft of the transmission also has a seal.  If the leaking oil has a distinct smell to it, that is probably where the leak is.

I had to change the main seal and o-ring last summer  :'(  But than the clutch was ok. I "grabed" the main seal just in time when leakidge started to apear. I have oem bmw manuals. Forgot to bring 'em back to the police garage where I took 'em  :-[

I'm going to be ashamed for couple of minutes and I'll stand in the corner until oil drains out.


Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: easiest way to change clutch plate
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2008, 09:49:09 PM »
Give those input splines a good lookin' at while you are in there.  They do wear, but if they looked good last summer, you are probably alright.

I wonder if my landlord would mind me pushing my bike in the living room this winter?  ::)