neutral switch '83 R65

[mikethebike]

I am having intermittent problems with the neutral switch.  I can get round the starting problem by pulling the clutch.  Has anyone taken one out?  It looks like I will have to remove the frame tube and bolt if that's possible?  Any suggestions appreciated.
Mike

[Bob_Roller]

Mike,

Does the green neutral light in the tachometer work correctly ?

If it does, you have a problem with the starter interlock switch that is activated by the clutch lever.

[mikethebike]

If I connect the two wires which go on the neutral switch the neutral light on the tach illuminates.  The light was working occasionally when the engine was warmed but now it only works if I connect the wires together.  I'm fairly certain it's the switch as I cleaned the contacts and it worked OK for a while.  I want to take the switch out to clean it properly or replace it.  Also, does the gear oil have to be drained out first?

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Affirmative on the gear oil.  The switch is kind of like a second drain plug!

There are two ways to access the switch.  The first is as you suggest, support the rear of the engine, remove the rear engine mount, and then remove that big hollow tube that it runs through.  The only problem with this method is getting that tube back in place.  It is a VERY tight interference fit.  Putting the tube in the freezer for a few hours MAY help.

the other way is to disconnect the transmission from the engine and slide it back as far as it will go.


If it were me, I would wait until I needed to pull the transmission, like for a spline lube, and do it then.

[scuba]

Just replaced neutral switch several weeks ago. Huh!!! Maybe I had to learn for gynecologist. You don't have to take off engine from the frame. And that was all that's easy. Put gear in neutral. Than drain gear oil. Than use open wrench 19 (or it was 17) and unscrew the switch from gearbox. And that's all.

Puting it back is job for gynecologist. After half hour of swetting, I got the idea. Take peace of wire long enough to make noose around the base of switch (lasso the switch) and strong enough to bare the switch and hold it with that wire because it was impossible for me to hold it and place it on the opening by fingers. Handle the switch and place it under the opening on gearbox using wire lasso and screw it carefully with open wrench.

Mine switch had broken tip and wasn't working. That was the reason for replacing it.

Good luck

[mikethebike]

Thanks for the very useful information.  I think that I will buy a new switch as it seems that I don't want to do this job again in a hurry!  :-?

[balibeemer]

I've done this more than once!
1. Remove the rear wheel
2. Remove the silencers / ms and the expansion box that they fit into.
3. Remove the long engine mounting bolt that goes through the aluminum spacer tube ( no need to support the engine / or gearbox)
4. Remove the spacer tube

now drain the oil and re-install the neutral switch.
Reassemble in reverse order.
It takes me about 20 mins each way.

[mikethebike]

I've took it out and cleaned it but it only needs fingertip pressure to activate the switch (on/off).  I'll fit a new one when it arrives.  I tried the freezer trick with the tube and it works. Thanks for the tip.  I managed to get the frame bolt out without having to take anything off apart from the exhaust clips.  Thanks to all for suggestions. Regards, Mike.