Cleaning Innards of Forks

[Crossrodes]

So I have my forks out of the bike and have removed the caps and springs.  I noticed that there is a LOT of grit on the inside of the tubes.  I'm surprised that the seals are still sealing.  Probably the same situation inside the slider... now to the question:

On a Goldwing I know that the right fork slider can be removed from the tube simply by pulling vigorously on the tube or slider.  Is it the same with the R65 (Type II fork) or do I have to undo that nut on the bottom of the slider?

I'd really like to get things cleaned up properly since I've gone this far.  

Another possibility I'll ask about...would it harm anything if I flushed the innards out with something like Varsol.  Would that be effective in flushing out the grit?

Oh and here's a tip for those of you that are going to do this job in the future.  I have changed the fork oil on my Goldwing every 2 years in the past.  That bike has a screw in type stud/seal at the top of the fork.  Getting that stud started when re-installing it is a bear(more so with Progressive Springs).  I took a block of wood and countersunk a recess in the wood so I could stand on the pegs and push a speed handle using my shoulder and the wood block to start the stud.  This works fine.  In the case of the R65 I had the forks clamped in a vise and was able to use this block with the countersunk hole to push by hand on my 6" extension and socket to push the seal assembly down against the spring and hold it there while I installed the circlip.  I tried doing this using the extension without the wood block and my old arthritic hands just couldn't hold the assembly down long enough.  So if you're having the same problem try using a countersunk wood block.    

[Justin B.]

You can also make a fixture to push down on the top-plugs that bolts in place of the handlebars.

I'm not really shure how much plastic and rubber are up inside the forks but if there is none then I would think any fast evaporating solvent that leavs minimal residue could be used.  My favorite choices would be Berrymans B12 or lacquer thinner, of which neither gets along with most rubbers and plastics if in prolonged exposure...

[Bob_Roller]

To get the fork tubes separated, you need to  get an allen type wrench on the bolt that is visible at the bottom of the slider, and then a 13mm socket on about an 18 inch extension to get the hex shaped top of the damper inside.

I use an allen wrench socket instead of an L shaped wrench, gives you something larger to hold onto, instead of an allen wrench, and a bit less prone to slipping off of the bolt head.

You can use just about any type of cleaner to clean up the inside of the tubes.

[Crossrodes]

OK I got the forks apart and cleaned up.  I used an impact wrench to loosen the allen stud on the bottom of the fork but it looks like I'll have to buy that long extension to torque it up when I reinstall it.

By the way I'm really glad I did this.  One of the forks had chunks of copper inside.  I've no idea where this came from as I didn't see any copper components.  The insides of the slider and tubes look ok.  

Two more questions:

1.  My manual indicates that I have a tightly wound spring at one end...I don't.  The spring is tightly wound for a couple of inches at both ends.  Would this tell you that this is a Progressive Suspension or other aftermarket spring?

2.  I'm thinking I should use blue locktite on the lower allen stud.  Any thoughts on this?

Mike

[Justin B.]

I've never used any type of thread locker on these, just torque to the proper value, 25 lb/ft IIRC.  Sometimes you get lucky and don't have to use the long extension, I've had to on about 50% where the rest tightened up OK without having to back up the upper bolt head...

I changed the springs in the '80 and can't remember 100% but I think the stockers were wound the same all the way down the spring.  If you have sections that are wound closer together then they are a progressively wound spring of some sort.

[Bob_Roller]

I dont know how much of a difference this makes, but when I installed progrssively wound springs in my forks about a year ago, the instructions said to install the springs with the tightly wound end at the bottom.

You mentioned that there was some copper debris in the fork, was there any kind of spacer under the spring ?

The set of springs that I got from Progressive, had about a .5 inch long piece of schedule 10 pvc ( the thick wall tubing) spacer that had to be installed before the spring.

I'm wondering if your pieces of copper might have been a spacer of some sort.

[Crossrodes]

Bob there was no spacer and I don't think that there was enough debris for it to be a spacer.  No spacer in the other fork also.  Both forks have the same type of spring.  Just one more thing that is different about this bike I guess....

[nhmaf]

You might get lucky and not need to replace them, but I would strongly recommend replacing those "wave" washers that are under the drain bolts
and especially under those bottom end allen bolts.   I tried re-using mine and they wouldn't quite seal up well enough, so I got fork oil leaking down on the axle and brake rotor, which then got onto the pads and substantially reduced my braking ability while I was riding through some twisties.

The replacement washers are something like .15 apiece and well worth it, since you've got her apart.

[Crossrodes]

Nhmaf I believe they are crush washers.  I've replaced all the bad ones.  Some PO had put silicone on them...they were unbelievably bad.

Mike

[Crossrodes]

I'm really glad I decided to do the steering stem bearings.  The bottom one wasn't too bad but the top one would not turn the grease was so thick and dry.  I took the top one out and really gave it and the bottom bearing a good wash and blow dry and repack.  The bearings and races were in good shape in spite of the hardened grease.  It seems like I caught them just in time.

Now I'm in the re-assembly stage and I have one more challenge I would like some advice on:

I opted to install the triple tree first...no problem.  The fun comes with attempting to reassemble the fork, turn signals, headlight ears and their rubbers and the little round stanchion that keeps the turn signals from swiveling.  I managed to get one side done but I'm having a tough time with the other side.  The main problem is keeping the rubbers in place and getting the stanchion/pin to stay in it's shallow recess.  Does anyone have any tips on doing this?  Should I have re-assembled the forks to the triple tree before installing on the bike?

[montmil]

... I took the top one out and really gave it and the bottom bearing a good wash and blow dry and repack...

..."blow dry". Really hope you did not use an air gun/compressor to dry the bearings and then allow them to "spin up and sing" while they were dry. Tech info on bearings relates that this is a quick way to ruin bearings if this is done to a dry bearing.  

[Crossrodes]

..."blow dry". Really hope you did not use an air gun/compressor to dry the bearings and then allow them to "spin up and sing" while they were dry. Tech info on bearings relates that this is a quick way to ruin bearings if this is done to a dry bearing

Nope!

But do you have any tips on holding all the pieces in place?

[montmil]

..."blow dry". Really hope you did not use an air gun/compressor to dry the bearings and then allow them to "spin up and sing" while they were dry. Tech info on bearings relates that this is a quick way to ruin bearings if this is done to a dry bearing

Nope!

But do you have any tips on holding all the pieces in place?

After freshening the bearings with new grease, slather enough grease on them to hold everything together as you plug them into place. BTW, I had a bad bearing in the rear hub that had almost let go of all the tapered rollers. They should be "caged". How yours?

[Crossrodes]

Montmil I think we have a different bearing setup.  Mine are not caged.  The lower bearing sits in a cup.  The upper bearing is a standard roller and race.

As far as holding things together my problem is not with the bearings or the triple tree.  It is with the fork ears and the associated hardware per this:

I opted to install the triple tree first...no problem.  The fun comes with attempting to reassemble the fork, turn signals, headlight ears and their rubbers and the little round stanchion that keeps the turn signals from swiveling.  I managed to get one side done but I'm having a tough time with the other side.  The main problem is keeping the rubbers in place and getting the stanchion/pin to stay in it's shallow recess.  Does anyone have any tips on doing this?  Should I have re-assembled the forks to the triple tree before installing on the bike?

I suspect your bike being a different year than mine (mine is a '79) we may have a different set-up.  You may not have fork ears like mine.  A friend whose bike I was looking at this morning has a later model ('83 I think) and he does not have the fork ears...he has a plate attached to the triple tree to which the headlight is attached.  I suspect yours is the same.

[montmil]

...  I suspect yours is the same.

Roger that! Got the plate.