I trust the mfgr of the TIRES, not the auto that they happen to be mounted on, to be the definitive answer on inflation pressure.
Otherwise, you would believe what the F*rd people put on their explorer model SUVs, which resulted in premature tire wear and failure,
and which were determined to be underinflated by the tire mfgr. If you have a 70s era bike, the placard on it probably shows you to put
26-28 PSI in the tires, which was OK for the ancient rubber of yore, but is not applicable to today's tires on the same bike.
Of course, if one carries anything to one idiotic extreme or another, ride quality, handling, and safety will suffer.
As long as one doesn't go to the limits of the tires, they are not overinflated. One can also observe the tire profile to
see if it has become convex - it is fairly obvious to me, though perhaps not everyone has worked in an auto garage. Many cars, trucks, and bikes also
have different pressure ratings for different load ratings. Staying within the nominal range of inflation pressures,
as in this case 35 PSI is only at 83% of maximum rated 42 PSI, there is no danger, and the tire profile is not compromised.
The tires max rating on the sidewall are also derated to provide safety margin for heating up (tire pressure measured cold)
but I am not advocating going near the pressure limit.
Depending on what tires you have, these specific numbers may or may not apply. Maybe you have tires with lower max pressure, which will
also probably mean that you run them at a lower pressure still. What I have observed on my vehicles thus far has been that increasing
tire pressure from ~ +/- 76% of rated pressure to +/- 83% of rated pressure has yielded an improvement of about 3.5 - 4% improvement in fuel
mileage, and so far tire wear does not appear to be affected, though I do monitor how many miles I get out of a set of tires.