Deep Sump Conversion

[clonmore1]

Thoughts on this mod?

Worth doing?

Thanks

[Motu]

Do you want more oil or less ground clearance? I thought the bigger sump was to give more crankcase volume for better breathing with the bigger engines (1,000cc). 2.5 litres doesn't sound like a lot,but I think it's ok for a low srtessed engine.

[clonmore1]

Thanks Motu.

[scottyintex]

I have always wondered about getting one. Here in Texas seems like it would help with the cooling. Some say it is really not necessary.....that if it were an oil cooler would work better. Anyone out there tried one or a oil cooler?

[Bob_Roller]

I don't know about all of the deep sumps out there, but the few that I have seen, made the center stand unusable .

I've got an OEM oil cooler on my '81 R65, it dropped the oil temp about 75F., according to the temp indicating dipstick .

If you consider an oil cooler, the kit has a thermal bypass valve in place of the filter cap, it won't clear the right header pipe .

It's also the most expensive part of the kit, so you may want to buy the parts individually, it may come out less costly.

The later model airheads, mid '90's, have a filter cap with just threads for the hollow 'banjo' bolts, no bypass valve .

[Mike V]

Thoughts on this mod?

Worth doing?

Thanks  

Chris,

If my memory is correct...

It's been my understanding the purpose of the deep dish pans were to lower the oil level in relationship to the rotating crankshaft thus reducing crankcase windage. And adding oil is not recommended since it would solve nothing.  I don't believe the deep pans will significantly increase oil cooling or were intended to do so.  With this in mind; it brings up another question which is dip stick length.

I installed one on my R100 years ago, it's been hanging on the wall of my shop for longer than I can remember.  Personally, I found no benefit.
 

[clonmore1]

Mike,

THanks, I really value the opinions of all the "sages" on here as I am new to Beemers.

Thanks again.

Chris

[nhmaf]

The oil pan on my 1982 R65 is already deeper than that on my 1978 R100/7.   I could see some possible help with the 980cc engine and more oil availability, but IMHO the R65 has enough oil capacity and doesn't have the windage issues or the R100.   OTOH, if I were running my R65 in temps that fairly regularly exceeded 100F, I think an oil cooler could beneficial.

[suecanada]

I ran across a fellow on an R100GS, '94 at the National Rally at the oil change venue. He had an oil cooler on the bike, never had done an oil change as the bike was new to him. It looked kinda daunting to deal with the oil filter change so we did not tackle it. Other than the header pipe anyone know just what other complications arise if an oil cooler is stuck on the oil filter cover?? Inquiring minds would like to know for future oil change volunteer jobs! I would think it is more of a job and when you add in mid-90's temps, it could lead to and  :-?

[Bob_Roller]

I don't know about the installation of an oil cooler on the GS series bikes, but on my R65, it's no different than a non-cooler equipped bike .

The oil filter kit for a cooler equipped bike, has all the crush washers needed to relace the 4 rings inder the hollow bolts .

I'm not sure if you need to remove the hollow bolts and lines on a GS, to get the filter cap off, but that's not the case on the R65 .

[Semper Gumby]

Thoughts on this mod?

Worth doing?

Thanks

Hi A.C.

Depends on what you are doing with the bike.  What makes you think you need an oil cooler?

I have a friend with an R90/6 with the deep pan.  He cracked it going over a smallish sized berm blocking the road.  After that he put the standard pan back on.

There are a couple of iterations of the deep pan.  There is just the plan deeper pan.  I think back in the day this was to add more oil to the motor so that the oil would last longer for long distance riding.  i.e. the oil lasts longer because the increased quantity means that the protective additives last longer which means longer interval between oil changes.  I didn't know about the crank "windage" thing first I heard of that one.

Then there is "ring" with two longitudinal air tubes that run through it.  This is bolted between the stock pan and the block of the motor.  This gives added oil for longer oil change intervals and additional oil cooling.  But I don't know how efficient this is.  Available from Germany.  

Then there is a special ring that removes the existing oil filter can and adds an external (front of motor directly behind the front wheel!!) spin on car filter.  There are also fittings for an oil cooler on this ring.  Also available from Germany.

So how hard are you going to ride this bike?  Most of us are pretty comfortable with changing the stock oil filter (we have figured out how many shims to put in and where to put them.)  

I have heard lots of anecdotal stories of people riding stock naked R65's in 100F+ weather with no trouble at all.  Most people change their oil and filter on the R65 in the 3000 to 5000 mile range which seems to be well within the capabilities of good modern oils, dino or semi-synthetic blended.

Where additional capacity comes in handy is when you start loading down the R65.  Add a side car or add a full fairing and hard bags and now something like an oil cooler starts to make sense.  That is where I am.  I have a a draggy Luftmeister fairing and heavy Givi Panniers and a top case.  I commute all summer (and winter long).  With that load and my overnight bag strapped to the back of the bike in Atlanta traffic in 100'F or near 100'F weather, I can tell you that an oil cooler helps.  The motor runs better and seems to have more power under load with the cooler and doesn't stumble.

There is a down side to having an oil cooler.  You have to remove it for the winter.  Not just because you don't need it but because the start oil pressure in temperatures below 25'F OAT with 20W50 oil have been documented in the 150 lbs + range.  This is beyond the capability of the Lockhart Oil Coolers.  (Ask me how I know this)  I don't know about the BMW or Jazz coolers.  If you do put one on you should try to have a thermostat control.  They are available again from Germany in a unit that bolts on the side of the case but also as stand alone between the motor and the cooler.  The stand alone thermostats are available here in the states from various sources.  In the fall when its not quite time to remove the cooler, the thermostat helps keep the motor from getting too cool.  In the winter I switch to 10W40 to help mitigate the high start oil temps and to make the motor easier to crank -- but I still remove my Lockhart cooler.

Hope this helps you in your decision.  Your results may vary.