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Author Topic: N0oB Alert  (Read 2943 times)

Offline Justin B.

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  • Mt. Olympus Resident
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  • Posts: 5983
  • I love my Beemers
Re: N0oB Alert
« Reply #15 on: February 15, 2009, 08:11:18 PM »
Steve, just splitting hairs/picking nits but it looks like your valve covers may be on the wrong sides...
Justin B.

2004 BMW R1150RT
1981 R100RT - Summer bike, NEKKID!!!

drewboid

  • Guest
Re: N0oB Alert
« Reply #16 on: February 17, 2009, 07:58:28 AM »
One other possibility with high idle when warm is sticky advancer weights. When it is idling fast try slipping the clutch in first gear while stopped to bring the idle down to about 750 - then disengage the clutch again. If the idle stays low for a while you have identified the problem. Of course you could also just check with a timing light to see if the timing is advanced at idle - but at 3000 RPM you would see some advance anyway.

Just as an aside - I had a similar problem on my R75/6. To make it worse the PO had snapped off the 10mm nut holding the advance unit in place and brased the nose so it would stay on! the Omega electronic ignition unit that mounts on the end of the crankshaft over the generator worked as a replacement.

steve_wicks

  • Guest
Re: N0oB Alert
« Reply #17 on: February 17, 2009, 05:23:28 PM »
Its gone for a service and rear oil seal but the airhead expert Ray Muller immediately commented on the upside down.wrong side covers.

Bought a manual ..... I almost died at R700.00 or $70. But couldn't find one anywhere else.

I'm back to riding my dual purpose Honda CTX 200 (basically XR 200) but I miss the easy nature of the R65 already.

steve_wicks

  • Guest
Re: N0oB Alert
« Reply #18 on: February 17, 2009, 05:35:28 PM »
I've got no idea what the exhausts are, but I reckon they sound better than the std items. Not noisy, but deffinately more throaty!!

flying.finn

  • Guest
Re: N0oB Alert
« Reply #19 on: February 18, 2009, 05:58:25 PM »
Quote
One other possibility with high idle when warm is sticky advancer weights. When it is idling fast try slipping the clutch in first gear while stopped to bring the idle down to about 750 - then disengage the clutch again. If the idle stays low for a while you have identified the problem. Of course you could also just check with a timing light to see if the timing is advanced at idle - but at 3000 RPM you would see some advance anyway.

Just as an aside - I had a similar problem on my R75/6. To make it worse the PO had snapped off the 10mm nut holding the advance unit in place and brased the nose so it would stay on! the Omega electronic ignition unit that mounts on the end of the crankshaft over the generator worked as a replacement.

That is exactly what my bike is doing.. I can come to a stop and put it in gear and slip the clutch and the idle will drop ... Then quickly pull in the clutch and it idles quite well ... I will look into the advance mechanism .. you saved me from tearing down the carbs ..

Thanks

Finn ..