another chestnut

[thrang]

I'm pretty sure that this comes up every winter but whats the best way of stopping the ignition freezing, or defrosting it when it is. I tend to keep a small can of deicer in the fairing pockets, but this doses F the lock up eventually?

Cheers
Tony

[Justin B.]

After 30 some odd years of experience I've found the best way is to avoid riding when temps are below the freezing point!  But, on a more serious note, I would think that an application of a suitable lock lubricant after the lock has thoroughly dried out would do the trick.

[Bob_Roller]

From what I can remember of my life in a northern climate, the lock de-icers contained some sort of alcohol.

I'm sure it removes the lubricant in the switch assembly.

The only specific lock lubricant that I used, had graphite in it, so I would look for the contents of the lock lubricant, because I believe that graphite would conduct electricity, and the ignition switch has a number of electrical contacts inside.

[Justin B.]

Yeah, but graphite is such a bugger to get into the works!!    I remember a product called "Lock Ease" that was basically graphite suspended into some sort of fast evaporating carrier.  You squirted it into the lock and the carrier evaporated leaving just the graphite behind...

[Ian_R]

You probably shouldn't use graphite in the main switch as it could conceivably get to the contacts and cause a short circuit, although it should stay contained in the lock barrel.

However, here's my 'he must be mad' off the wall idea - wire in another globe (from your  instrument lights?) one of those long, skinny ones and tape it to the lock. Then pack the area around the whole thing with fibreglass or polyester insulating material.

It should heat the area sufficiently to de-ice it after a very short time.

Please feel free to laugh.

[mikeyd3]

Thank you Mcguyver

[tagordon]

Did a search of the TS/TSB (Trouble Shooting/Technical Service Bulletin)database @ work today. The experts, engineers, whoever writes those things recommend:

Frozen Locks: Heat Key & Insert. Carefully hold key to prevent burning self. (No mention of using pliers or other tool, go figure)Possible will require repeated attempts to fully insert key. Once key is functioning, apply glycerin inside lock.

I have used glycerin as a food grade lubricant before. On food processing machinery. It is also used as a children's laxative. Available at most pharmacies.
I wonder if the toxic/lethal Ethylene Glycol ingredient in antifreeze is glycerin's evil twin.

P.S. (Attn. Justin )Spell check did not work. It showed me the errors & offered corrections. But when I clicked "Finish Checking" it showed blank & did nothing. So I corrected the errors it showed.

[Justin B.]

Could have been a network time-out or a server thing - this server is pretty sluggish today...

[nhmaf]

I've used WD40 on at least a couple occasions with car door locks with decent results..but one occasion it didn't help, either.   WD40 was developed as the 40th formulation of a water dispersal/lubricant for the Apollo program, after all...  With all the salt and grit we have on the roads up here, sometimes the door locks on our cars get jammed up with sand and salt crystals as well, and occasional squirts of this stuff helps in those cases, too.

Back when keys were made entirely of metal, if a lock was really frozen we'd heat a key with a butane lighter and stick it into the lock.  If it still didn't turn, one could hold the lighter's flame under the end of the key and it would continue to heat/defrost the lock.   However, with plastic handled keys and programmed chips embedded in them now, this is something to be avoided at all costs if you ever want to get into the darn vehicle (and especially if you want it to start ) !!!!!