Hello Chaps, New member saying Hi from the UK

[Diesel_Dave]

As we say in Essex "Chuffed to bits"....

I was particularly inpressed with the 70-80 overtaking punch.

Two questions if I may:

1) the throttle seems a bit heavy - could this be a lack of lube in the cables or is this a 'quality' of the marque? the clutch is light as a feather.

2) What's the engine oil specs? 10w40 or 20w50? - it's as clean as a whistle oil wise bit I change regularly as I think this is the best maintenance a chap can do.


I was warned that the gearchange may seem a bit clonky but it's one of the lightest and best I've used - very close in feel to the RE 5 speeder. 4 & 5 seem quite close together - a usefull surprise.

I'll be visiting the home of the klienboxer in a few months - first for the Royal Enfield european rally and second for the best damn diesel rally on the globe - it's gonna be hard leaving the R65 at home! If any of you ever get the opportunity to visit Germany you will find it difficult to find a warmer welcome - lat year i arrived at the Diesel Rally compsite to have a beer thrust in my hand before I put a foot down - definately a good recomendation.

Needless to say I'll be putting on a heap of miles in the future, commuting alone is 300 miles a week..

Cheers for a bit
Dave

[Justin B.]

Dave, usually the cables do not require oiling unless they are sadly neglected or on their last legs.  A couple of other things to check would be to make sure the throttle tension screw (under the grip) isn't cranked down real tight and also the throttle grip tube might need to be cleaned/lubed as well as the mechanism.  Since this model probably has a single upper cable going into a splitter with two cables coming out for the carbs this splitter assembly could also be crudded up inside as well.  The cables are joined together with a plastic "piston" or coupler that if it gets grungy could contribute to a harder than normal throttle pull.  If everything is cleaned and lubed and the throttle is still too heavy for you you can always replace the return springs on the carbs with lighter ones, I have read of folks doing that .

As far as oil goes probably for anything above freezing 20w50 would be fine, definitely 20w50 in the summertime.  The gearboxes often prefer a heavy weight synthetic, I use 80w140 in all of mine and they seem to shift better than with the 75w90.

You commented on the riding position.  I think all of the R65LS models destined for Europe had the low bars (Euro-bars) but those intended for the US specified the taller "touring" bars.  If you wanted a more upright seating position you might be able to find somebody to swap you, or come up with a set of the "high bars".  This would likely necessitate changing out the clutch cable, upper throttle cable, upper choke cable, and maybe a brake hose as well.

You look to have a very nice machine and it should serve you well, and welcome to the forum.

[Diesel_Dave]

Well I'm 500 miles up so far since buying the bike and you can colour me happy  

Being a nervous type I swapped the trans and final drive oil just to be safe only to find that both had new oil anyway - ah well  

I also found the cause of the rear drum brake being useless - the shoes are brand new and need bedding in.

I suspect the carbs might need a good clean and balancing as it does not like choke at all and idles very poorly when cold. Also the LH one drips if you leave the tap on.

Damn better go back outside and turn the fuel off then.

Regards
Dave

[suecanada]

I tried lots of things to get a snapping back throttle but to no avail and now i just consider it a built-in cruise control of sorts. A good lube of the upper throttle chain affair is always a good maintenance item and smoothing off the throttle tube is fine too. I bought lighter springs once and they were so light that there was no return movement at all!! So the old OEM ones went right back on.  Take a good look at that throttle mechanism for worn out teeth. I ended up replacing mine for all new parts and beware the new parts will require a new designed throttle cover plate...dumb but true. I probably have all the right part numbers somewhere but I doubt you will need new parts as your bike hasn't gone far enough yet. Mine had 73,000 miles on it when I bought it.

At 60 yrs. of age I have come to the realization that the higher bars are better for old backs....though the look of the euro-bars is far superior in my opinion. Alas, somethings must fall to the wayside.

You will love this bike more each day and we are all so happy that you seem to have found a fine, good condition, example.

[Justin B.]

Funny you should bring that up, Sue, I take it that you FINALLY got your new throttle-bits issue sorted out?  I remember you were having fits with it...

[Chris_in_BC]

1) the throttle seems a bit heavy - could this be a lack of lube in the cables or is this a 'quality' of the marque? the clutch is light as a feather.

Dave, usually the cables do not require oiling unless they are sadly neglected or on their last legs.

I disagree here. BMW cables are Teflon lined. Trying to feed oil down them can cause the Teflon to expand, aggravating your problem. (although Justin did say this was for cables really on their last legs   )
All the other comments about cleaning and greasing the throttle assembly (take note of the line up marks for the gears)
apply. Good comment about checking the cruise control screw under the throttle assembly if one is fitted. Some people (like me) have them fairly tight all the time.

I think the BMW throttle is heavier than most Japanese bikes.

Chris