Tach wiring harness delete?

[montmil]

Having decided to install a Vapor electronic instrument cluster, a die grinder and cutoff wheel made quick work of the upper bracket mount for the instruments and ignition switch on the metal panel that secures the headlight bucket. Some touch-up with a smaller stone in the grinder, a bit of file work and the modified plate was sanded, primed and repainted. The big, black "goose egg" instrument shroud and funky crash pad are also history.

New ignition switch is hidden out of sight. Also installing a battery cutoff switch under the seat.

My question is this:  The left over tachometer wiring harness plug has eight ( wires terminating in a circular-shaper plastic "plug" that mates in the bottom of the tach. There's also a pair wires and grounds that lit up turn signal indicators in the dash console.

I have checked both my Clymer and Haynes manuals for the 1981 R65 wiring diagrams and can see no reason for not eliminating this large diameter and unsightly snake's nest of wires.

There's not enough slack in the tach harness to tuck the unused wiring under the tank so I'm planning to chop it off and secure the cut ends with shrink tubing. The front end of the bike now looks five pounds lighter.

Comments, guys? Am I missing anything? As always, thanks for your input.

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

You need to keep the 'GEN' light intact, or put a resistor (330 ohm, 1 watt) across the wires, as this is part of the excitation circuit for the alternator rotor.

Without it the alternator will not work.

[montmil]

Thanks, Bob.

My Clymer shows the GEN lamp wire to be a Lt Blue. If I understand correctly, I should install the resistor between the Gen indicator bulb's Lt Blue power wire and a ground wire?

I may keep the generator, neutral and oil pressure indicators as the Vapor's optional "dash" has provisions for these.

As usual, I appreciate your quick response. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[Bob_Roller]

I don't have a wiring diagram handy, so I can't verify wire colors.

But  the resistor goes between the power wire and a ground.

[montmil]

Thanks, again!

[Ed Miller]

I'm tempted to do something like what you're up to.  Can we see pictures?  In particular, where are you putting the ignition switch, and how will you seal off the speedometer drive at the transmission?  The model I was looking at was possibly something other than the Vapor, but it included indicators for charge, turn signals, and about everything else we have on the R65s.  

Snowbum has an article on the charge light modification, which is a good idea even if you aren't going to eliminated that light as it will ensure your bike keeps charging even if your bulb burns out.

[Bob_Roller]

If you ever place an order with Motorrad Elektrik, Rick Jones has the resistor and wire 'pigtail' already made up for about $3.50.

[montmil]

I'm tempted to do something like what you're up to.  Can we see pictures?  In particular, where are you putting the ignition switch, and how will you seal off the speedometer drive at the transmission?  The model I was looking at was possibly something other than the Vapor, but it included indicators for charge, turn signals, and about everything else we have on the R65s.  

Snowbum has an article on the charge light modification, which is a good idea even if you aren't going to eliminated that light as it will ensure your bike keeps charging even if your bulb burns out.

Taking digi pics as I go to share with the group. Snowbum's at http://bmwmotorcycletech.info? Got him bookmarked and will check it out. Busy site, almost an information overload  

Right now, the tach drive is sealed with a hard rubber plug from Ace Hdwr. Pretty solid though time will tell.

The Vapor digital instrument cluster has an optional "dashboard" that does accept "our" indicator features. Comes with several interchangeable lenses: neutral, oil pressure, charging, turn sigs, etc. Lists at 124.00 for the primary unit and 39.00 for the dash. Includes a mounting bracket for the handlebar clamp.

Ignition switch is in the headlight shell kinda similar to an R100.

[montmil]

If you ever place an order with Motorrad Elektrik, Rick Jones has the resistor and wire 'pigtail' already made up for about $3.50.

Be calling Mister Rick on Monday... if he's not our holidaying it. Need a dyna coil and, for 3.50, the pigtail is a deal. Thanks for the tip, Bob.  Monte

[montmil]

...Snowbum has an article on the charge light modification, which is a good idea even if you aren't going to eliminated that light as it will ensure your bike keeps charging even if your bulb burns out.

Hi, Ed

Download the Alternator Gen Lamp Circuit Modifications article from Snowbum's site. Four pages worth but some nice, useful information.

Guess I ought to do some additional reading on his site. All those CAPS and color highlighting start getting to me after awhile. Thank goodness my printer let me print out the article in grayscale. Easier on these old eyes.

[awaffa2003]

hello!!!! hasn't anyone remembered my little spring break project?!?!?!?!?!

i also installed a vapor and you need all of the 8 wires! in previous posts there were links to my facebook gallery that showed how to (crudely) hook it up but you do need the "motorcycle dash panel".

i should revive that old post.....on second thought maybe not, kinda like beating a dead horse....or should i, so u dont have to search for it...

[Ed Miller]

I remembered it, Harrison, though not what you did to plug the speedo drive bolt area.  I'll look for it.  Thanks for the reminder.

[montmil]

...you need all of the 8 wires!.

Not necessarily so... Unless you wish to keep the original tach instrument lighting wires or the neutral light wires. The R65 is the first bike I've ever owned that had a neutral light. I prefer an educated toe having grown up on 50's and 60's era Triumphs while cursing Lucas the Prince of Darkness.

I don't really need a high beam indicator lamp as oncoming traffic will remind you should you forget. The oil pressure light is, to me, a reminder for other folk that they haven't paid attention to a regular maintenance program on their bike, car, atv or aircraft. YMMV.

The GEN lamp wires can be eliminated with the 330 ohm resistor pigtail mod that will keep the alternator 'alternating' even if the bulb filament is toast. And the ground wire, well, perhaps it could be incorporated into the Vapor's grounding path.

This wiring topic is kinda like my '34 coupe/350SB project and the on-going debate in Hot Rod Magazine as to what constitutes a "real" hot rod... Plain and simply put, the builder does. That's what makes the sport of motorcycling/hot rods/experimental aircraft/boats, etc - pick one or more - such a great activity. We can all do it "our" way and it'll be the "right" way.

Enjoy [smiley=beerchug.gif]

[nhmaf]

I don't know, personally I realize that when the OIL light comes on, especially with these airheads and their sometimes quirky oil filter issues, it is time to shut down the engine ASAP.   I don't think that I'd be comfortable/happy without it, even though I hope that I never see it do more than briefly flash as I go about starting the bike up - by the time it comes on typically while riding you are only seconds away from impending doom.    Certainly with most Japanese bikes, I never needed a neutral light, but there is alot of difference between the smoothness and false neutrals I found with several airheads.    My little Tillie's transmission works quite nicely (Good job, Don !)  but I can still find at least 1 false neutral in her without trying hard, between 2nd and 3rd...

Everyone is definitely welcome to do what they like to their own bike, of course - especially if you aren't concerned with resale !
 

[Jon_P]

i removed all the wires from the tach, speedo and just about everything but the starter button on mine.

i removed the speedo cable where the cable goes into the plastic housing i used a little jb weld and then placed a nickel on top of it for looks.

for the most part my wiring is there to run the bike and not much more other than headlamp, brake lamp and the starter. the rest is gone. the only problem i had is when i removed one wire that was going to a relay i removed a ground, once i found that i was set.

i also had my entire wiring harness on the dinning room table with factory manual and cylmer manual.