Tickover Problems when hot '84 (no points)

[mikethebike]

OK! I checked the cables and they are fully returning and the throttle is back to the stops on both carbs but the revs often (not always) stay high, when the bike is hot. I understand that the automatic advance in the front cover can stick on these models. Haynes suggests attempting to lubricate the mechanism by removing the front cover, removing two screws from the unit and spraying WD 40 or similar into the back of the hall effect unit to free off the centifugal mechanism.
Any comments folks?

[airhead]

Yes!!
Are you sure it's the advance unit and not just the fact the carbs have to be set when hot, or else you will have the idle race away as soon as it gets hot?? Get the bike up to temperature before setting the idle speed and synching.
To test if it is the advance unit, if the idle races, engage a gear and slowly let out the clutch to load the engine and drop revs. If the revs stay low after pulling the clutch back in, then it's a good chance the weights are sticking or the springs are tired and need replacing.
Rather than pull the top lid, half way down the beancan is a small oval cover. Prise this off and it gives first class access to the weight pivots and mechanism. It's best to remove the can from the bike for best access. If you want to remove the plug at the top as well, remember there is a small wire bail clip that has to be removed before pulling the plug from the socket, however, you can do the stuff you want without unplugging.
Also, importantly, DON'T use WD40 as lubrication is not its best feature. Use INOX, CRC 2-26, or something similar, or better still, a little 3 in one oil direct applied to the pivots.

Bill..........................;-)

[mikethebike]

I set the idle when hot and you are right, you can slow the revs by engaging gear and slowing the engine by releasing the clutch to biting point and then the revs stay low. I agree about WD40 lack of lube power. It cleans well but I always use something else as a lubricant after cleaning or freeing with WD.  Thanks for the info'. I'll have a go at it.
Mike
Edit:- Just done the job and it seems to be OK now.  I'll give it a good run later to see how it is then. Cheers for help
Mike

[Justin B.]

Mike, you may have dodged a bullet by being able to just lube the advance unit, I was able to do that on one bike but not another.  I had one that was so rusty that I had to totally disassemble and "de-rust" it.

[mikethebike]

I found that the unit was very clean but also very dry!  I think it was maybe just the lack of lubricant.

[Justin B.]

That's great!

[mikethebike]

On a longer run it was much better but still a little sluggish to return to tickover at rest.  I bit the bullet and popped it on the centrestand I revved the engine and manually returned the left carb back to zero by pushing it with my finger - no difference. Another quick rev and did the same with the right carb. Ahah! tickover was achieved and at the last extreme point of return I felt a little resistance from the carb.  I returned home and stripped the carb off to find a build up of carbon between the butterfly on the throttle and the edge of the carb where it rests. A few squirts of carb cleaner and a good rub with a clean cloth got rid of the carbon. It now seated perfectly. A final run and check and all was now OK. It has been a number of  things-all hopefully now cured. Many thanks for the advice folks. All the bases have been covered and the bike should now run OK. (Until the next time!!!)
Mike.

[Justin B.]

That's great.  I don't know if I've ever had carbon to build up to that extent or not, at least not in recent memory...

[Bob_Roller]

I'm wondering, with the age of the average R65 dual shock bikes of about 25 ish years old. if opening up the 'bean can' for a good cleaning and lubrication might be something to consider doing at least once.

[MrRiden]

Thinking of going in to add a second hall sensor. Wondering tho where to get those little red plastic bush parts that ride on the pins / weights for the advance unit. Not a good description but if you've been in there you may know what I'm referring to.
rich

[Justin B.]

I don't know where those things might be obtained, might have to "roll your own"

[montmil]

I'm wondering, with the age of the average R65 dual shock bikes of about 25 ish years old. if opening up the 'bean can' for a good cleaning and lubrication might be something to consider doing at least once.

"Bean can"? Donde esta el bean can?

Could you guys break it down Barney-style? Electric or manual can opener required?

Gracias

[Justin B.]

Ignition trigger unit.  Newbs, geeeezh...  

[airhead]

Thinking of going in to add a second hall sensor. Wondering tho where to get those little red plastic bush parts that ride on the pins / weights for the advance unit. Not a good description but if you've been in there you may know what I'm referring to.
rich

You mean these things? Never seen them before!!!



These are actually my spares as I've found some in the past split or worn through, they simply pull off. However, why do you want them fitting a spare sensor? All you need is very accurate measuring to get the spare unit 180degrees opposite the original, and another lead and plug to the outside. Too fidly for me, I just keep a spare beancan, but never had to swap it so far.


BTW, I have a sale at the moment, a whole heap of pre-loved short lead triggers.......only half price!! LOL





Bill..............................;-)

[MrRiden]

Why yes Bill those do resemble my remarks! I just figured that while I was at it I might as well refresh the whole deal with springs and such. Quite the collection you have there! I'd read about adding another trigger 180° as a backup. Your awesome collection has made it apparent to me that this might be a good Idea! Still want some new little red thingies tho!
Rich
BTW Ive seen where some German sites call this the "Milk Can" [Milch kann]