R65 oil filter query

[montmil]

Been searching the site and other www's looking for the answer... What's a "hinged" oil filter and how does it differ from the "regular" filter? Which one is commonly used? Why?

Saw one blurb about  BMW scooter filters being available at NAPA. True?

Lots of scary stories about incorrectly installed o-rings and washers leading to leaks and ultimate "$2000 o-ring repairs". Oh, Lordy. How does something so relatively simple become such a nightmare?

What's the straight skinny for our R65's?  Veteran R65'ers are invited to chime in. Perhaps this subject could become a FAQ topic.

[airhead]

Stick with Mahle, BMW OEM (which ostensibly are Mahle I understand) or Donit  filters for your bike and you can't go wrong. There may be others available where you are, I'll let others comment.

Here's the straight filter


Here's the bendy filter


Both will fit your bike, the bendy is for when engine bars, headers or fairings make extracting a straight filter difficult. A bendy oil filter is also made for bikes fitted with oil coolers. However it is longer and has different ends/seals. If you ask for a bendy, specify NO oil cooler or you could end up with a wrongun!

Filter change easy, filter in, next shim, then cover with O ring fitted to it, no need for the paper gasket. After a while you could do it in your sleep.

Bill..................;-)

[Bob_Roller]

There have been a few instances of aftermarket filters collapsing, one of our mrmbers here Mrridden82R65LS, if I'm mistaken, had one do this recently.

Can't remember if it was a Fram, or K&N oil filter.

Best bet is to stay with OEM parts in this instance.

When I installed an oil cooler on my '81 R65, I had to change the center pipe in the oil filter housing to a longer one, is this also the case with using a non-oilcooler hinged oil filter?

Once you get the filter cover off and the filter out, you will see it really isn't all that difficult, it's just a bit out of the ordinary for a motorcycle oil filter installation.

Like Bill said, oil filter in first, then install the thin sheet metal ring, there's a small lip inside, that it rests against, then install the cover with the o-ring installed.

One thing you might want to check, is with the filter out, take a look into the oil filter cavity, and there is a pipe in the middle of it, check to see if someone may have left an o-ring in there, the original filters didn't have any seals on them, you had to put an o-ring on the pipe, then install the filter.

I've heard of people finding this one still installed on their bikes on the first oil change after having purchased the bike from another owner.

[mikeyd3]

I figured the 'bendy' as a God send for my 84' R65. To properly change the oil the manual reads to heat the bike up to thin the oil out.  BUT to remove my oil filter I need to unfasten and move to the rear the exhaust pipe.My exhaust pipe is 2 inches from the door of the oil filter. I cant run the bike with open headers so Im supposed to remove the pipe hot!?!  The straight filter doesnt clear but the bendy is puuuuurfect.

[montmil]

Thanks, guys.  [smiley=dankk2.gif] I figure a couple hundred more questions and I can shut up.

I'd rather ask first than pay later.  

Monte

[airhead]

...................When I installed an oil cooler on my '81 R65, I had to change the center pipe in the oil filter housing to a longer one, is this also the case with using a non-oilcooler hinged oil filter?........................
 

No, the bendy (no oil cooler) and straight filters I show in the pics are exactly the same length and perfectly interchangeable.

Bill...................;-)

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

11 42 1 337 570  hinged oil filter (short - non-oil cooler)

11 42 1 337 098  big o-ring

11 42 1 336 895  metal washer

I have been using the hinged (short) oil filters ever I saw pictures of a long one that had collapsed in the center, presumably from oil pressure.  I am pretty sure it was OEM.

The hinged filter has slightly less surface area, but with the shorter segments, it is stronger.  

I used normal straight filters for the first 20 years of owning the bike.  I only blew up one engine, and the oil falling off of that filter onto that warm header (let the pipes cool off a bit before you tear in there -  the oil will stay warm for a few minutes!) made a real mess out of my right header.


Be careful of your force on the fasteners holding the cover.  They are steel, and are going into aluminum threads.  You can't really get a torque wrench in there, just use a small wrench (are you lucky enough to have the tool kit?) and snug them up good, without getting carried away.  [size=14]CHECK FOR LEAKS[/size].

Before you ride off, let it run for a minute to check for leaks.  I crushed an O-ring once, and I got to the gas station a couple of miles away before I realized what had happened!  I was scared.

As airhead said, put the O-ring on the cover when installing it.  It will stay in place, and make installation easy.

[Bill90Loyale]

11
11 42 1 336 895  metal washer

Rob-
I assume that the "metal washer" above is the shim that goes between the cap/red o'ring and the filter canister.   Correct?

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Rob-
I assume that the "metal washer" above is the shim that goes between the cap/red o'ring and the filter canister.   Correct?

Bill90 - The O-ring should be white (I've never seen a red one).

And yes, the metal ring goes in first, before the large O-ring.

I always put the o-ring on the cover, anyway.  It holds the o-ring in place, and makes everything easier.  The flat metal ring will usually stay in place with no problem, in it's place against the filter canister, where it protects our o-ring from potential danger of sharp edges.

[MrRiden]

There have been a few instances of aftermarket filters collapsing, one of our mrmbers here Mrridden82R65LS, if I'm mistaken, had one do this recently.
Can't remember if it was a Fram, or K&N oil filter.

It was a Fram CH6061. Came out flat as the proverbial pan cake! O ring and shim held up tho. Like it's been said, and I learned, get the OEM and read this http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/canister.html
rich

[msbuck]

I actually had an OEM filter collapse in my bike.  Don't have any idea what caused it.  Only happened once...

[Bill90Loyale]

Rob-
I assume that the "metal washer" above is the shim that goes between the cap/red o'ring and the filter canister.   Correct?

Bill90 - The O-ring should be white (I've never seen a red one).

And yes, the metal ring goes in first, before the large O-ring.

I always put the o-ring on the cover, anyway.  It holds the o-ring in place, and makes everything easier.  The flat metal ring will usually stay in place with no problem, in it's place against the filter canister, where it protects our o-ring from potential danger of sharp edges.

Thank you Rob.   The bike is a 1979 R65 barn find (built 12/78).   When we removed the filter cover, the o-rings were red(!).   And I do mean RINGS.   The PO had jammed a small red o ring onto the back of the spindle that holds the filter.   And there was a small red o ring on the cover as well.

[Bob_Roller]

Those small red o-rings were the original design installation for the oil filters.

The tube type integral seals on the filter, came into use sometime in the mid to late '80's.

That filter you removed is most likely quite old !!

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

For as long as I have been changing my own oil on this bike (1980?), I have never been sold a filter that needed the separate o-rings on the ends.  I suppose someone with old stock could have changed the oil at some point.
That would probably explain why I have never seen a red o-ring.

I also found out by playing with a filter, that those integral sealing rings can come out quite easily.

[Justin B.]

I remember them from the mid-late 70s.  Always had to dig around with a hook made out of a paper clip to retrieve the one O-ring on the tube.  Ah, the good-ol days when this was all you had to worry about was this instead of the "$2000" O-ring