Annoying Oil Leak

[vontresc]

Thanks to all of you for your advice. I did get the seal out today, but I found out that when you get frustrated it's best to step away from a problem, and come back when you feel better.

While trying to remove the stubborn old seal, I decided in my infinite wisdom that the crankshaft would make a perfect fulcrum to use to pry loose the old seal. Exceedingly BAD idea. Yes you guessed it I now get to explore the innards of a boxer. The feeling you get when you feel that crank move inward a 1/4" is just priceless. And yes I did block the crank, but I guess I just applied too much force to the crank for the bungee 2x4 contraption to take.

So trolle how long did your rebuild take you when this happened to you?

Pete

[trolle]

10-12 hours including the thinking. But then it was easier than I had feared and I was rather proud of my self when I succeeded in constructing a puller that worked. See the pictures at my site http://picasaweb.google.com/petertrolle/BmwR6584Restoring/photo#5134858944905045746 to get some inspiration.

Hopefully you have not destroyed anything like I did: http://picasaweb.google.com/petertrolle/BmwR6584Restoring/photo#5134858901955372770.

Those stopdisks, and remember that there are two of them, are tricky.

greetings from a grey but warmer and wetter north

trolle

[nhmaf]

Oh my !

Sorry to hear of your calamity, vontresc !   If I have to go in there, I am going to make sure that I use a cut off allen key in the rotor bolt
and partially screwn the front timing cover on in hopes that will be a more definitive "block".    Well, look on the bright side, you are going to learn alot more about how the famous boxer engine is put together as your get your crankshaft bits all repositioned.   DO take your time with this, and trolle's
pictures are helpful to give you a frame of reference.   I'd recommend that you check out some more of snowbum's website as well for other
helpful info on boxer cranks, etc.

Good luck, and keep us posted !   Maybe there is a fellow airhead in your area that might be able to help you out.   A key thing is to see if there are any
"tech days" scheduled in your area.

[MrRiden]

Gosh, what a mess! I'm deleting all reference to, "bundgeeing" [sp] a board to the bike as a crank blocking method, from my how to files. Seems like bad advice in light of your plight. Have you attempted to move the crank back using hand pressure only. you might be lucky and not have to disassemble the right cylinder to get at the thrust washer.
rich

[vontresc]

Rob, the bungee method ought to be ok as long as you don't use the crank as a leverage point for your screwdriver while prying out the seal. By the way my seal actually was a metal ring. The new ones now use a plastic ring on the outside.

I view this as operator rror, rather than failure of the blocinkg procedure. Though the allen key methos would have probably saved me.

Peter

P.S. at least my engine will finally be clean again :-)

[Bob_Roller]

I have not been on this site since Thursday of last week, I use a method to remove the rear main seal, that would have avoided this situation.

After getting the 'cup' off of the crankshaft, I drill three small holes about 120 degrees apart into the metal face of the seal, then I use a small automotive dent puller that has a small sheet metal screw on the end, thread it into the holes in the seal, and then apply a few gentle taps of the slide hammer weight to pull the seal out, a few taps at each hole are usually sufficient to remove the seal.

I have used a cut down allen wrench, and then put the front cover back on to block the crank shaft, and no problems have occured yet.

Just a question, would it be possible to re-install the thrust washer with the crankshaft 1/4 th inch forward ?

If it didn't fall into the engine case, could it be put back on the two pins that hold it normally ?

Then push the crank shaft back to where it's supposed to be.

[trolle]

As far as I remember it is possible to get access to the thrust washer from the cylinder hole on either the right or the left side, so if the washer is not harmed in any way it may be possible to put it in place without pulling the main bearing. This makes the operation much easier, as you only have to remove the cylinders.

Don't do as I normally do but start with the easy way.

greetings from a warm spring day in the north

trolle

[vontresc]

Quick update....I've had some fun taking the bike apart, and got the jugs, and oil pan off now.....

The good news id that the thrust washer is still on the pins, the bad news is that the thrust washer is still on the pins

I now need to clean the crap out of the cylinder pistons, and check the timing chain. With any luck I ought to be back on the road in a week.

Pete

P.S. the front rubber engine mount spacers are shot. What is the part number for these things?

[MrRiden]

P.S. the front rubber engine mount spacers are shot. What is the part number for these things?

sounds like you have the Luftmeiser vibration fix. Factory spacers were metal. Interesting that I can't find any kind of part #'s for 'em. Ill keep lookin'
rich
http://www.nebcom.com/noemi/moto/r65faq.html#ENGINE_VIBRATION

[Bob_Roller]

The BMW part number for the OEM spacers is : 46712311726.

Price is about $3US each.

I had to do some searching to find the number.

The Luftmeister rubber isolaters, can still be found on eBay, the last set I saw went for over $100US.

I got mine in 1981 for $25US.

[vontresc]

I just wanted to post a quick update to my saga.....

Well there is good news and bad news.

The good news is that I managed to get everything back together, AND I managed to never drop the thrust washer off the pins, so I didn't have to pull the crank. the bad news is that I managed to snap off part of the shift lever

All in all pulling the engine, and removing the heads etc was remarkably easy. I even managed to learn a few things :-). Also I have to thank our local airmarshal Jeff Trapp who in addition to being a very helpful good guy, also runs a side business making specialty tools http://www.northwoodsairheads.com

Here is a gallery of images from the rebuild.

http://picasaweb.google.com/vontresc/BMWOverhaul

Pete

[airhead]

Congrats on the rebuild.
I might make one or two small observations that I saw from the photo's you posted.
It might be best to leave the oil pump cover on till all else around it is finished working on. It's real easy to dislodge some muck and it ends up in the internals. I tend to leave it till the very last thing I do in there, and make sure all is scrupulously clean around it.
When pistons are off the rods, protect the rods with rag as they can fall onto the sharp edge of the barrel spigot opening. This can start a crack in the rod, or dent the opening, if severe enough.
Just something to remember the next time!!

Bill.....................;-)

[Justin B.]

Good pictorial documentation!  You may be able to get the end welded back on your shifter for fairly cheap.

[vontresc]

It broke apart on a prior weld. I Just bit the bullet, and ordered a new one from A&S Cycles (they had one in stock)

Pete