Many things that I'd check out on any bike - the condensed list:
wheel bearings (no notchiness or sounds/growls, spins freely, doesn't always stop in same sport). Also grasp wheel at 3 &9 o clock and try to wiggle/pull for looseness. 6&12 oclock too.
steering head bearings (no notchiness, smooth turning side to side)
throttle & choke operation (smooth, snaps back, not sticking)
brakes
(calipers&pads (those Brembos have a plastic cover that pops off allowing easy viewing of the pad thickness&condition))
rotors - straight, not heavily grooved or rusted
master cylinder/lever - no signs of leaking good resistance, not floppy, clear/light color brake fluid - anything not right here may require rebuild
You won't likely be allowed to take the bike apart, but other quick things to check:
Engine oil - color&cleanliness here might tell you something.
Exhaust nuts - if these will easily turn off/unscrew then that is a VERY good thing. IF they start to "stick/bind - DO NOT turn them any further or you WILL damage the threads on the cylinder head! They can be cut off and replace to preserve cylinder head threads - otherwise $200 per head to repair
clutch lever - these bikes have a stiffer clutch than most japanese bikes, but still should operate smoothly with engagement point about 2/3 - 3/4 of the way out.
Any maintenance records for the bike?
All electrical stuff should work properly - lights, horn, etc. Green neutral light should come on anytime bike is in neutral, red "GEN" light should come on brightly with key on but engine not running. With engine running it should go out by ~ 2500 RPM or so. Engine should idle @~1100 RPM. These bikes DO make more noises than similar vintage japanese bikes that are normal, though some sounds are not normal even for these - hard to describe but some "rattle" in the gearbox when in neutral @ idle is normal. Check underside of engine&gearbox "shelf" for signs of oil leaks. Slight oil weeping OK @ cyl base &p