R60/2 Advice needed

[mandosi]

Hey all...I'm looking at a 1965 R60/2 and wondered if anyone has any experience with that vintage bike. I am unsure since I has handlebar directionals and was not aware of that option for that year...could it be a modification. Anything substantial I should watch out for...price is reasonable so the temptation factor is high. Any advice is appreciated.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

There is quite a bit of difference between that bike and a post 1970 airhead.

They do not have and oil filter, like ours (the turn signals are the least of your worries!).  
Instead, they have metal slingers on the crank shaft that throw the oil to the points that need lubrication.
The slingers have small holes in them, and over time they fill up with sludge.
This is accelerated by not changing the oil often enough, but it is still considered to be "regular" maintenance.

Problem is, to clean the slingers, one must remove the crank.  That is a complete tear-down of the engine.

If you are a young man, and have the money, I would buy it and have it rebuilt (if it hasn't already [documented!]) and plan on keeping it forever, and depending on how many miles you put on it, you may need it done 2 or 3 times in your life.

If you are an older man, and have the money, I would buy it and have it rebuilt, and it will probably outlast your riding years.



And that is just the slingers.

They are wonderful, beautiful bikes, and I would love to have one.
The closest I have been is a 1969 R60US for a couple of years, as the ex's first bike, and then I built a conversion for pulling a sidecar.  I loved the sidecar rig.  I have learned a lot since 1984 when we owned the US model, that would have come in handy back then.  All hail the internet!


Boxerworks has a section on their forum dedicated to the '55-'69 years.
They are off the air right now while they change internet service providers.

No doubt there is a Yahoo Group, as well?

This is the Vintage BMW Motorcycles, Inc.
http://vintagebmw.org/version6/

[Justin B.]

I reckon if he can get it cheap enough it might be a god candidate for a conversion...

[Lowen]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-R65-2-motorcycle-rear-fender-emblem-NEW_W0QQitemZ300186959051QQihZ020QQcategoryZ35603QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[airhead]

I'd have one in a minute, despite the dated technology and possible minefield rebuild. Try for an Earls front end if possible, though I realise not so easy in the US (every one I've seen out here regardless of age has the Earls).
No one seems to want to part with them!!

Bill...............;-)

[nhmaf]

If you have some $$$ and significant mechanical skills and a workshop, I'd say go for it !!
If you have more cash and access to a good BMW mechanic I'd say go for it !

If you have neither, I'd say that it might represent a larger investment (though one which
definitely could appreciate VERY significantly) than one which you may be willing to undertake.

Also depending on your financial and personal inclination, it could be made into a very nice
conversion bike with a powerplant transplant from a /6 or /7 vintage bike, though this would
be considered heresy by a number of bike restoration experts.

My cousin is working on a /2 conversion as he only has the chassis at the moment..

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

If I had a complete /2 (regardless of condition), I would not convert it.   There are plenty of rolling frames available for that.

[NC Steve]

I was at the local BMW shop back around November, and there was a guy there about 70 riding a /2 conversion with a R90/6 engine and drivetrain. He had a sprung Bates solo saddle with an old style pillion pad, slightly upswept megaphone-type mufflers, Earles forks, everything properly black & chrome, no frills, clean but not too much so: a real rider.

It may be hard to picture, but that was one fine looking, sounding and running machine!

[drewboid]

"Ask the man who owns one"
I have a 1966 R60/2 - owned it since 1969 and love the machine. It was my daily driver for the first 7 years that I owned it. However - maintenence does include cleaning the slingers - drum brakes are not as good as the disks (although if properly adjusted do work well) - limited HP keeps you from getting speeding tickets - electric start is nice but if properly tuned (and if you know how) it will start on the first or second kick. It will start and run with a dead battery because of the magneto ignition but the coils are subject to failure. they are easy to work on as most airheads and parts are very readily available - Yahoo has a /2 and an airhead group that will answer questions.

Please, please, please, don't do a conversion! the /2s are getting rarer - if you must then buy a frame for the conversion.
Costs can add up if you want a full restoration - one estimate is $5000 for the bike, $5000 for mechanical restoration, and $5000 for paint and finish. But - you don't have to do it all at once.

Directional signals were not required before 1969 (or thereabout) - they were an option. the brake light didn't go on with the front brake either. (I've had great fun with the DOT inspection about this). The stock 35 watt headlight is only a little better than a candle and the 60 watt (max) generator on the 6 volt system does not allow for much of an upgrade. I have forced a 7" 6 volt sealed beam headlight into the shell and there is some improvement.

Personally, I went for a R75/6 as my daily ride with the R65 for my girlfriend. I keep the R60/2 with a sidecar for special events. (the R1100R was an impulse buy - I wanted to see what ABS was all about)

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

As for headlight improvement, I thought a R65 reflector/lens/ring would "drop right in".
I could be confusing this with the /5.

[Frank_M]

I ride my '67 R50/2 only a time or two each year, just to work the oil around the ol' girl. I've never bothered with the slingers (75,000 miles on it), but last summer I added a splash of Sea Foam to the crankcase, then drove it about the country roads around my farm for a hundred miles before changing the oil. The stuff comes in a sealed metal container rather than plastic, so I suspect it can be harsh on rubber where there is rubber, if left in contact too long. I once threw some in the gas tank of the R65 and I must say it perked right up and was a good preparation to a tune-up.

I've never heard a bad word about this product. I know repairmen of boat motors like to throw a can in first thing if they get a motor that's been sitting awhile. Any of you have opinions on Sea Foam?

[nhmaf]

I know that quite a few of the folks in the Kawasaki concours motorcycle forum like to use it (SeaFoam), though I personally have yet to try it.

[mikeyd3]

They do not have and oil filter, like ours (the turn signals are the least of your worries!).  
Instead, they have metal slingers on the crank shaft that throw the oil to the points that need lubrication.
The slingers have small holes in them, and over time they fill up with sludge.
This is accelerated by not changing the oil often enough, but it is still considered to be "regular" maintenance.

Problem is, to clean the slingers, one must remove the crank.  That is a complete tear-down of the engine.

And that is just the slingers.

At the risk of sounding like a schmuck(yet again) Would sea foam work on cleaning the slingers with the oilchange? That may extend the time between rebuilds[not oil changes] to help increase that mathmatical equation (fun=riding coolbike- wrench time X parts cost) per second per second

[drewboid]

The subject of slinger cleaning has long been discussed on the /2 forums - there is no easy way. the crud that accumulates in the slinger is hard and packed in. No liquid solvent will loosen it or remove it - it must be chiseled out! If enough accumulates it blocks the passage for oil to get to the lower connecting rod bearings and then you have MAJOR problems.

Unless the bike comes with a certified letter from the mechanic who cleaned the slingers include the cost of tearing down the engine in your estimate of the purchase price. Yes - you can ride it until there is a problem - but how do you know that the previous owner didn't do the same?  And problems with the crank and bearings are VERY expensive. The crank is pressed together around the con-rod ball bearings.

Personal opinion from someone who has looked at his own slingers at 40,000 miles (free and worth every penny) is that they do need to be taken apart to be cleaned. Many greater minds than mine have worked on the problem without coming up with a way around it.    YMMV - the /2s are a piece of history, you become more than an owner - you are a caretaker so treat them right. That being said I LOVE my R60/2. My son has asked me if he can have it - I said when he prys my dead hand off the handlebars!

As to the headlight - I have heard about fitting an R65 rim but not tried it. The problem of the 6 volt system with a 60 watt generator remains unless you want to invest in upgrading the system to 12 volts.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Yes, if I had a /2, I would seriously consider the 12v upgrade.

1) It is VERY practical

2) It is hidden (isn't it?).


Does the 12v still use a magneto?