R65 Resurrection

[TomHoldom]

Yes, the last ones I bought simply unscrewed, but a quick google reveals that there are 3 types; solid, loose and stud (don't know if this is a recent thing), and the solid do not unscrew....unhelpfully they all have the same reference.
See this explanation: https://youtu.be/zCIE4_DubXo

[georgesgiralt]

Hello !
The "R" plugs have a resistor in them. If you use OEM cable, there will be 2 resistor in series... So either stick with the "non" R or change for plain plug wires and caps.
As per the torque figures, BMW being German, they use metric values and are foreign to Imperial units. So expect at least wrong conversion or completely false values... I would stick to the metric value for critical work. But it's just me ...

[TomHoldom]

Hi Georges,
I have new leads from Motobins which have NGK caps (similar I believe to OEM leads) needing a 'stud' end to the plug - which plug should I be looking for that?

[georgesgiralt]

Well, NGK make plug head with and without resistor in it... So you have to devise a way to know what P/N they are and look at the NGK site to check, or ask Motobins ...

[TomHoldom]

OK for those who need NGK BPR7ES plug with a removable resister/terminal you need to make sure you order the full reference NGK 2023 BPR7ES, otherwise you might end up like me with  NGK 3785 BPR7ES plugs which have the resistors fitted on permanently......lets see if the shop will take them back....

[Bob_Roller]

With regards to your oil leak on the rear clamp on the rubber boot .
What I see, is a stainless steel clamp worm gear clamp, the OEM clamps are a dull gray soft steel with two ears and a very small screw to tighten it up .
The rear clamp has to conform to the twists for that installation, stainless is not flexible enough to do this, I've tried .

[TomHoldom]

Hi Bob_Roller,
ok this could be the reason I have a drip here although I think the clamp has been on the bike for all the time I have owned it (22 years....)

I'll add a narrower clamp to my next motobins order.

[TomHoldom]

As general comment, you can't always trust figures from a Haynes manual. It's not their fault as they just copied it from a BMW manual which also contains some worse errors like the smaller flywheel bolts which are pretty much guaranteed to shear if you follow the book figures. Always better to step back and consider if it sounds right for the size of the bolt and if in doubt ask.

Can anyone recommend a setting for 1979 drive shaft oil drain plug which my haynes manual gives as 14 -17 Nm (or 10 - 12,5 lbf ft) and the bevel drive oil drain plug which it gives as 23 -26 Nm.

[Barry]

Tales of stripped drain and fill plugs are not unheard of on the various airhead forums which doesn't surprise me given the book values. In my opinion 17 to 20 ftlbs is way to high for any of the drain or fill plugs.  I probably use lower than most people with 10ftlbs for them all except the drive shaft fill and drain plugs which I do by feel. If I used a torque wrench I'd set it to 8 or 9 ftlbs at the most.  I have never had one leak or fall out, well not since 1972 and I don't think I tightened that one properly. 

When you have done a few oil changes and  loosened a drain plug that you previously torqued, the force required is a useful bit of feedback about the whether they were tight enough. I've always found that they were.

I'm sure others will use higher torque values but I very much doubt anyone uses the higher figure of the stated range.

[skippyc]

I've always done mine by hand and never to tight. Just make sure i use a good washer.
I think they get tighter not loose.

[Bob_Roller]

I agree, I don't torque drain plugs .
I tighten by hand and then use a plastic/rubber hammer to tap it and snug it down .
Don't do this on the overflow plug at the back of the final drive, or the drain plugs on the fork .

[mrclubike]

OK for those who need NGK BPR7ES plug with a removable resister/terminal you need to make sure you order the full reference NGK 2023 BPR7ES, otherwise you might end up like me with  NGK 3785 BPR7ES plugs which have the resistors fitted on permanently......lets see if the shop will take them back....

No you do not want resistor plugs
NGK BP"R"7ES are resistor type plugs and the resistor is not removable

You want plugs that do not have a "R" in the part number
If you are using resistor caps  1K Ohm or 5K Ohm

NGK
BP6ES
BP7ES

Bosch
W5DC
W6DC

Champion
N7YC  (Stock #813)
N9YC  (Stock #300)

Beru
14-6D (but you will only find them New Old Stock)

All of these plugs should have the tips that unscrew to reveal a threaded post
At least that has been my experience

Do not go by what the  spark plug application books tell you
They will often say to use resistor plugs

[TomHoldom]

NGK BP"R"7ES are resistor type plugs and the resistor is not removable

Just checked with MOTObins and they confirmed that the plugs the recommend for my bike are the NGK (BPR7ES) Code: 05300N    BMW: 12 12 1 338 146.

But they need to be the 2023 type as a mentioned previously to ensure that the tips are removable.

Though to avoid the confusion its probably safer to follow  Mrclubike's advice and go for BP7ES

[Bob_Roller]

I messed up on this early on with my '81 R65.
I was on vacation visiting relatives in the western suburbs of Boston in September, 1990 .
A local independent foreign auto parts store was closing, I got a set of 4 Bosch WR6DP, platinum plug .
Paid $4US for them .
Ran those plugs for 4 years, no issues with the ignition system .
If by chance you have used resistor plugs or currently have them installed, at least in my case nothing detrimental happened .
With the cost of platinum plugs these days, I just use the BP7ES plugs .
After all these bikes are just ' farm implements " after all !!!

[TomHoldom]

just fitting my new headlight seal between glass and reflector - can anyone advise me on the positioning of the gasket.
What I've done at the moment feels wrong - too much visible beyond the chrome ring - see photo.

Duane Ausherman's site talks about the ribs on the seal going against the glass which could be where I'm going wrong, but also just can't find any photo of how the gasket should sit on the glass before I push it together with reflector.