R65 Resurrection

[TomHoldom]

Thanks for the diagram Barry.
I'll open up the choke and have a look - in fact I am the previous owner (sort of) - I've the bike since 1997 and used for 8 years before moving to france where the bike has not been used for 14 years....

I've got the flat top carbs, for which I think the needles are meant to be 3 clicks in - which is how I put them back. But its possible that this was not there previous setting.....Is it worth trying 2 clicks, or shall I just clean first?

With no choke it doesn't idle or run well at higher speeds.

Thanks for the help

[TomHoldom]

Removed the pilot jets - both side blocked, and now running much better.
It was obviously stupid for me to run the engine after rebuilding the carbs and before sorting out the flaky petrol tank!!

Still not idling though, but hopefully this is just a matter of adjusting the idle speed - I'll have a look at this next.

Also noticed I've still got one side hotter than the other.
I swapped the spark plug leads, and it went to the other side so I'll get some new leads on order.

[Bob_Roller]

The idle jets may need some attention .
The metered orifice at the end can get clogged and is very difficult to tell whether it is clear or not .

[TomHoldom]

The idle jets may need some attention .
The metered orifice at the end can get clogged and is very difficult to tell whether it is clear or not .

Is the idle jet the one I've just had out and was referring to the pilot jet?
And is the metering orifice the restricted part of the hole?
Can you recommend a good way of cleaning?

At the moment I've blasted with carb. cleaner and can see through.

[Bob_Roller]

No you cleaned the main jet, the idle jet is just inside the carb from the idle mixture adjustment .
It has a screwdriver slot to remove it .
It's a thin tube with two sets of holes drilled into it the very end of it has the metered hole .

When you check it, use carb cleaner with an extender tube, place it in the hole with the srcewdriver slot, cover the four holes in the tube, the cleaner will come out of the very end if it's clear .
I have not found a sure way of clearing it if it is clogged .
I've got an ultrasonic cleaner now, I'll try that if I ever have this happen again .
I've installed pleated paper element fuel filters and since then no issues .

https://www.chapmoto.com/visu-filter-fuel-filter-861c-315-1916?msclkid=c17101ec342615917fb05d3479f25daa&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BPA%20-%20Items%20-%20Vehicles%20%26%20Parts&utm_term=4581183922797001&utm_content=BPA%20Item%20-%20Visu-Filter%7CVehicles%20%26%20Parts%7C0-50%7CC%3A70

[Barry]

Is the idle jet the one I've just had out and was referring to the pilot jet?

Two names for the same jet.

Strictly speaking this jet supplies the pilot circuit so I call it a pilot jet. It does more than just provide the idle mixture.  As the fuel pass through the jet it gets mixed with air entering from those holes in the side of the jet.  This mixture then passes into the venturi though a small hole restricted by the idle mixture screw. 

I've never had the pilot jet get blocked, if you can see through it it's probably OK.  But I often have problems with the air feed to this jet getting blocked with condensate from the engine breather.   So as well as checking the jet is clear  blow through the air passage from the intake end of the carb. If you look there you will see two small holes near the base. The larger one provides auxiliary air to the needle jet and the smaller one provides auxiliary air to the pilot jet.

You can see how this works diagrammatically on this generic CV carb diagram although here they call it a slow jet.

[TomHoldom]

ok, well the pilot / idle jet has been cleaned, but its probably worth me looking at the main jets again as well?

Still not idling well once warmed up (idles well with choke on).

The cooler side spark plug is sooting up still, and the warmer side looks this - does this look like its getting too hot?

[TomHoldom]

Still having intermittent starting issues.
What tends to happen is that unless it starts first time from cold, then it won't start.

Also noticed that the right side is always dry, and the left side often wet.
Is the wet or dry side that is likely to need adjustment and what might the adjustment be....

Over the last few days when I have got it going, it actually runs quite nicely (apart from not idling with no choke once warm)

[Bob_Roller]

Starting technique can be an issue at times, half to full 'choke ' don't add any throttle until it fires off .

[georgesgiralt]

Have you checked the fuel level in the carbs ? And the fuel flow ?

[TomHoldom]

Starting technique can be an issue at times, half to full 'choke ' don't add any throttle until it fires off .

don't think I'm doing anything wrong there - though I am on full choke - I'll try a bit less.

Have you checked the fuel level in the carbs ? And the fuel flow ?

flow is good to carbs, and levels look ok.
I do get a hanging drip appear on the left carb if the petrol is left on.

[georgesgiralt]

So it seems your fuel valve is not closing well. Worn tip or worn out siege ?

[TomHoldom]

Thought I'd pop out my main jet for cleaning while waiting for new spark plug leads to arrive.
Tried to do in-situ with carb on the bike; is it normal that the atomiser doesn't drop out?

[Barry]

Not normal but not unusual as the top part sticks up through a hole into the venturi. Depending how tightly it's stuck in the hole you might have to remove the piston and needle to press it out.

[Bob_Roller]

Do not leave the fuel tap in the 'ON' position, if you are parking the bike like overnight .
If the float needle doesn't close, fuel seeps into the carb, intake fill a cylinder and also seep into the oil sump .
Also do not let the bike stay on the side stand for extended periods .
You may also want to check to see if the fuel taps actually shuts off fuel flow .
My red LS, the fuel tap in the off position allowed enough fuel to run the engine .