Won't turn past bottom dead center ('83 R65 w/860)

[Soeren]

I just installed my new clutch, new connecting rods and pistons. But I noticed that I cant turn the engine over by hand (pull kickstart when the trans is in the bike, or turn flywheel when the trans it out), past bottom dead center in either direction.
The pistions are sitting in the cylinders without the heads on.

Is this normal at this stage in the assembly, or is something blocking the engine from turning.

[Bob_Roller]

Did you remove the clutch carrier, the part that is bolted to the crankshaft

[Soeren]

The flywheel? Yes, I needed to fix an oilleak from the oil pump, so I took the flywheel/clutch carrier off.

I did make smalle tool to prevent the crank from moving forward, so the thrust washers are in place on their pins.

[Bob_Roller]

Alright, that's where I was going with this .

[Soeren]

I'm throwing out some wild guesses.

I installed new oil pump rotors, could they bind up for some reason?

EDIT: Pulled the pump, no difference.


I was very carefull with the thrust washers, and the forward one is in place, could the rear thrust washers have come of the pins when I changed the rear main seal?

[mrclubike]

#1 Did the oil control ring pop out of the button of the cylinder

#2 Wrong pistons or connecting rod combination

#3 to long of bolt in clutch carrier

[Soeren]

Well I figured it out...

This is a new 860 Siebenrock kit.

I guess I can't really fault the kit, but the poor finish on the block.

Next step is to deburr the piston edge, and file/dremel the block to accommodate the piston, no?

[Tony Smith]

That is a first.

I would use a file to knock that "tag" down, and I would hold a vacuum cleaner nozzle over it whilst going so.

As regards the piston - use a stone as it will tend to lay the raised edge over rather than remove metal. it will also leave a nice polished finish so you will not lay awake at night thinking about stress risers.


And lastly, after Mrclubike's unfortinate experience, take the opportunity to pull both pistons and weigh them for balance (sorry if this last is taking cols to Newcastle).

[mrclubike]

I would check the rod balance also

But you have me wondering about mine
 I  should have noticed something like this when i turned the motor over by hand to adjust the valves so i guess I am OK

Let us know how   severe your  vibration is after you get it together

[Sejati]

I just installed my new clutch, new connecting rods and pistons

I interested on modification to use 860cc kits as well.
Would like to learn from everyone else here whom already got this improvement.

May I ask you why you need to replace with new connecting rod as well? It suppose not included with upgrade kits 860cc, right?

[Soeren]

That is a first.

I would use a file to knock that "tag" down, and I would hold a vacuum cleaner nozzle over it whilst going so.

As regards the piston - use a stone as it will tend to lay the raised edge over rather than remove metal. it will also leave a nice polished finish so you will not lay awake at night thinking about stress risers.


And lastly, after Mrclubike's unfortinate experience, take the opportunity to pull both pistons and weigh them for balance (sorry if this last is taking cols to Newcastle).

I'm starting the process of filing the tags down today, I'll let you know how it turns out.

And the picture actually looks a bit worse than it is, its more of a dent that made a slight bulge on the outside of the piston skirt. I'll file it down with a fine diamond file. I dont think the removed metal will make any notable weight difference, as it seems to be very little metal that has to be removed. But I'll weigh them and see.

I was not thinking about stress risers at all... before now!!!



And I already have weighed the connecting rods for balance as best as I could, with the tools I have and could fabricobble, and they seem to be pretty well ballanced.

EDIT: In the proccess of troubleshooting I pulled my clutch and flywheel and took out the new flywheel bots and clutch assembly bolts.

I know its "stretch bolt 101" to not reuse them, but does this also apply to bolts that have been tightened once, and never been run or undergone any heat/cold cyckles?

I just installed my new clutch, new connecting rods and pistons

I interested on modification to use 860cc kits as well.
Would like to learn from everyone else here whom already got this improvement.

May I ask you why you need to replace with new connecting rod as well? It suppose not included with upgrade kits 860cc, right?

No it is not necessary to replace the connecting rods. But one of my original connecting rods had a bend dowel pin, which resultet in the rod cap being misaligned on the rod, which in turn made the big end bearing halves misalign slightly.

And my clutch and pump were just worn out and needed replacing.

[Sejati]

On the con rod connection to crankshaft, do you have some small play right-left ? Where it is tight at other directions.

[Soeren]

Apparently Sibenrock are aware of the problem, and it is extremely rare.

They said it is mentioned in the installation manual, but I seem to dumb to find any mention of it. I have the RM/Rev.1.0 installation manual.

[Sejati]

Was wondering the progress you got to install the new piston.
What is it’s weight balance ?

[Soeren]

Both pistons came in (with rings and gudgeon pin) at 576g.

And this is my block after some filing. Gonna do a testfit tomorrow.

And that docx is the warning that should have been included with the kit.