Adrian
I'm assuming you have new crank, big end and cam bearings. If not ignore the first stage below.
Stage 1 - fill with decent (but not top drawer) multigrade oil - in Australia Id pick the cheapest out of Valvolene 20W50 or Shell Helix 20W50 or Shell Rotella 30W. If I were really pedantic I'd use a monograde 30W, but I doubt you would find that easily.
With the bike on the bench - start up and run varying revs up to 3500~4000 (briefly) once the engine is warmed up. listen carefully for signs of distress and watch for oil/fuel leaks. if you have a direct reading oil pressure gauge I'd fit it before starting - if not, monitor the oil light.
It helps if you have a dipstick oil temp gauge, but when you reckon the oil has reached around 90 Degrees Celcius, shut down and allow to cool.
When cool, look for oil leaks, if none start up again and repeat.
No distressing sounds and no oil leaks - congratulations crank and cam "break-in" cycle is complete.
Stage 2
Take the bike for a ride - extend the revs a bit and frequently, don't over-rev but more importantly do not lug at any time. If all seems to be going well - keep going, monitor for distressed noises, hot smells, oil leaks etc.
After about 50km, stop and have a long cup of coffee to allow a good cool-down. If all well - head for the highway and run a brisk 50km, try to vary speed 20kph below speed limit and 15kph over speed limit fairly constantly, but without annoying the crap out of other road users.
All good? Go home.
Dump the oil whilst hot into a clean container that you have put a white sheet of paper in, also pull the filter.
Examine oil and filter for metal - a little is OK, a lot is bad.
Fit new filter and o-ring (because o-rings are cheap) and fill with the oil you intend to run long term (again in Australia you can't go past Penrite 20W60.
Don't do any sustained runs of more than an hour or so until you have around 300km on the odo and avoid high tempos int he middle of the day. Do highwya miles in preference to city miles.
By the time you have 300km up you will feel the engine loosening responsive - time to check timing and set tappets again. I am not a believer in re-torquing heads too much and would wait till 100km is up before doing so and then never again until the next rebuild.
I really hope it goes well for you. Keep the speeds down as in spite of what Siebenrock promise I have found with two bikes that they run a bit lean above 100kph - I simply raised the main jet needle one notch. My bike is booked into a rolling road dyno at the end of this month and I will more extensively check mixture, but I think it is OK.
