removing drive shaft from swing arm

[vthokies03]

I tried searching, but was not able to come up with anything.

I have a  new to me 1980 model built in 11/1979 (a month before my birth).

PO stated it had a clunk in the drive, his research let him to believe it was the coil spring on the drive shaft. He purchased all the parts for replacement and got the tool to compress the spring for removal. Everything has gone well, right up to the point of me removing the drive shaft from the swing arm.

The Haynes manual, doesn't say anything about it. The parts diagram doesn't show anything odd. Today I found a tool by cycle works, a driveshaft coupling puller 1955-1980. 

http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_33_54&products_id=77

Has anyone used this or have you been able to make one yourself?


The tool I used to compress the spring is like this one:

https://advrider.com/f/threads/diagram-of-a-airhead-shaft-removal-tool.800019/#post-18935395



I am just trying to wrack my brain on how to do this, without having to purchase another single purpose tool.

Maybe I should try to convince the wife I need to make a fabrication center in the garage.....

Thanks!!!!

Matt

[vthokies03]

hmm, this looks like it may work.

[Barry]

The BMW workshop manual covers it but very briefly:

[vthokies03]

Thanks Barry. I have the snap ring off, its the part number 9 clutch bell housing that I cant get off. I pulled the snap ring (#11) and spacer (#10) out last night. I tired pulling on the bell housing, but didn't want to damage anything.

[georgesgiralt]

Done that.
The tool from Advrider works well. I've something similar.
Once the clip removed, you can gently remove your tool and then remove the coupling cup #9, #8 , then the spring #7.
And once done, you have to remove the part #6. This could be somewhat difficult because the stress could have somewhat seized it.
Once removed, the drive shaft will easily slide out from the other side of the swing arm.
Refitting the new clip is another matter entirely. And will help your neighbor learn new words...

[Tony Smith]

I seem to remember Revlight doing a photo essay on rehabbing his driveshaft back when he was still an R65 owner.

[MrTall100]

Managed to knock one up using M10 studding and aluminium plate.

Bit Heath Robinson, but worked really well, bolts at top are just tapped into the plate to keep the Drive Shaft central.

Pics below

[MrTall100]

Second one

[vthokies03]

I ended up ordering the tool from cycle works. Took less than 5 mins to get it apart. The spring that the PO thought was causing noise seems to be just fine. I put the spring in the vice and was able to compress it to make it was functioning. I guess Ill put it back together and see if I can recreate the sounds this spring.

[Bob_Roller]

Getting back to your original problem, when does this noise  happen

[vthokies03]

I am not sure. I have not ridden the bike yet. It was sold as a project bike that ran when parked. They were smart and emptied the fuel tank.

The PO said there was a clunk in the rear drive train. He bought the parts to fix it, but never got around to it. When he went to test drive it, the front brake stopped working. The fluid was not liquid, the plastic gasket in the top melted.

I changed all of the fluids and everything looked great. I made a make shift fuel tank with a coke bottle. I was able to get the bike to start and run. The motor was running, so thats when I tore into the back end of the bike.

I have no reason to doubt the PO. We still talk often and he had 2 other older BMWs that he serviced all the time. This was bike #3 (the only one without a side car) and he just didnt find time to fix/work on it. He is moving out of the country and is selling everything.

[georgesgiralt]

IMHO, the spring has weakened due to age and work.
If you have a new one, measure both on the bench and see if they are on spec (it is difficult to test such a mighty beast).

[mrclubike]

I ended up ordering the tool from cycle works. 

Good to hear Cycle works is shipping again