Damn. Still dealing with high idle

[Justin B.]

If you are adamant it's not the advance unit then maybe you don't have enough "slack" in the throttle cables, carb adjustments, etc.  Don't know what to say without being there.

[wilcom]

Barry had suggested that you back off the idle speed. Did you do that.

I would turn the idle down to 750-800 and see what effect it has on the overall problem

[Barry]

There is a thread on ADVrider with a similar problem but he has the idle speed set at 1200 rpm. Why anyone would deviate from BMW's recommended idle speed range and then search every where else for the cause of idle hang up is a mystery.

No1 rule when you have a problem is check everything is at stock settings.

[wilcom]

No1 rule when you have a problem is check everything is at stock settings.

As I read the thread it doesn't seem that anything tried so far has had any effect on the problem. Once you find something that will effect the problem, good or bad, you are closer to the cause.

I wasn't suggesting that he mal adjust it for a cure, just mal adjust it and look at the effect.

[Barry]

I wasn't suggesting that he mal adjust it for a cure, just mal adjust it and look at the effect.

I wasn't responding to your suggestion  Joe.  I think it's a good idea to test the problem with a low idle speed and have have suggested it myself before now.  But when you are trying to help someone who has set it at 1200 rpm and thinks that's ok, the stock idle speed is at least a step in the right direction.

You can often get away with a slightly higher than stock idle speed when everything is just right but when you have a problem is not the time to try it.

[tunnelrider]

This ONLY happens at operating temp.  Let the bike cool down.  Idles fine.  At operating temp I can come to a stop, clutch the idle down from 3.2 to 1.2K (where I have it set 'normally') and then blip the throttle back up to 4K and the idle 'sticks' again at 3.2k.

If I recall correctly Svejkovat, I had that exact problem initially which was masking the weak bean can springs.  I'd caused the sticking at high revs (mine was approx 2.4K) by throttle stop screws being too far in, affecting the idle air flow with the butterfly valve being slightly open at idle.
Once the idle speed is adjusted to the correct range (900-1100rpm) with a hot AND recently tuned engine (including head nut torque, valve clearances and timing), if the rpm stays high after blipping the throttle or riding over 4K rpm but is able to be bumped down to idle by the clutch I think the bean can needs to come off for an inspection and lube.  It's not too hard to take apart and put back together, you will really only be looking at the weight arms and pivots once in, as well as giving the shaft bushes a grease.
Buy some new fly weight arm springs first (Motobins sell them) and a proper 4mm pin punch, not just a nail punch.

Here's a link to my long winding path along a sticking bean can problem.
http://www.bmwr65.org/YaBB2.612/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1504037694/0