R65 ignition switch wiring

[rhysem]

I like MrClubike's suggestion on bridging both the headlights and tail light on post 56. I sort of was thinking of trying that but was hoping someone would say, "yeah, that might work and probably won't fry your tail light" before I went out on my own.

The new ignition switch is working per the drawing in the Clymer manual, whether it's actually supposed to work that way is unclear. I may rip open the old switch (carefully) and see if I can figure out why it's not working, I don't remember having this problem before it failed, and you'd have thought I'd notice if the speedo and tach backlighting weren't working when I drove after dark!

Thanks for the support!

Mike

[montmil]

The ignition switch is actually composed of two separate components: 1) A keyed lock and, 2) The switch assembly itself. Should you decide to disassemble the unit, you may discover the contacts within the switch have worn to the point where contact has degraded and it the cause of your problems.

This is exactly what happened with the ignition switch in my 1986 VW Cabriolet. Once the nylon and metal switch was replaced, all things electrical were back on-line.

Sidebar Note: Heavy key fobs with multiple keys dangling from a switch will wear out the switch itself. Weight, gravity and constant movement eventually becomes problematic.

[Tony Smith]

The ignition switch is actually composed of two separate components: 1) A keyed lock and, 2) The switch assembly itself.

Sidebar Note: Heavy key fobs with multiple keys dangling from a switch will wear out the switch itself. Weight, gravity and constant movement eventually becomes problematic.

I have replaced two ignition switches on the wife's R65/80 in the past 30 odd years, the current one is lasting well because she now has only the folding BMW key and a "Motorworks" key fob hanging on to the switch, I suspect that this one will outlast the previous two.

This is a good thing as the switch is no longer available as a part and I am watching with some wariness the travails of people seeking to replace it with an aftermarket device.

[montmil]

The ignition switch is actually composed of two separate components: 1) A keyed lock and, 2) The switch assembly itself.

Sidebar Note: Heavy key fobs with multiple keys dangling from a switch will wear out the switch itself. Weight, gravity and constant movement eventually becomes problematic.

I have replaced two ignition switches on the wife's R65/80 in the past 30 odd years, the current one is lasting well because she now has only the folding BMW key and a "Motorworks" key fob hanging on to the switch, I suspect that this one will outlast the previous two.

This is a good thing as the switch is no longer available as a part and I am watching with some wariness the travails of people seeking to replace it with an aftermarket device.

When I purchased my 1981 R65 in the way back days, I stopped in at Lone Star BMW in Austin, Texas, and asked for a spare key blank. I gave them my Airhead's key as a guide. There used to be a gent at that dealership that was well versed in Airhead lingo. That's not a BMW key, sez he.

Turns out, my R65 ignition switch was from a riding lawnmower! Sucker was doing a fine job in the OEM location and stayed in place until I got all kinky with the front end mods and deleted the switch AND key in favor of a double-secret hidden switch that gets me going.

 No more worries about losing a key!  8-)

[Tony Smith]

[ deleted the switch AND key in favor of a double-secret hidden switch that gets me going.

 No more worries about losing a key!  8-)

On more than one occasion I have been sore tempted to do the same thing. Actually with the R65 it would be easy, I'd use three switches - one for ignition, 1 for headlights and the third for parking/running lights, obviously the last two do not need to be secret.

[montmil]

Us'n's with 'murican-sold bikes have to have headlights on at all times hence the difference in ignition switches.

Just one HD toggle. Oh, and my tank bag...

[Matt Chapter]

Us'n's with 'murican-sold bikes have to have headlights on at all times hence the difference in ignition switches.

Swapped my switch for a Euro version so long ago that I had to replace the switch again.  I'm not saying I like to break the law, but I do like having the option...

[Tony Smith]

Swapped my switch for a Euro version so long ago that I had to replace the switch again.  I'm not saying I like to break the law, but I do like having the option...

I agree! My KLE has "always on" lights and they annoy me, thing is after looking at wiring diagrams for every model I can find it looks like they were all like that. If I keep it, something that is doubtful at present, i will delve into the harness and see what Kawasaki switch blocks are available at my local wrecker and make something up that looks stock but lets me turn the lights off.

[rhysem]

Just following up to say MrClubike's idea worked great. Pigtailed the output of the headlight post to the headlight and parking light wires, works great. Now maybe I'll get a little fancy and wire in a lead from the parking light post to the parking light wire with a diode such that the switch actually does what it's supposed to in the middle position.

And the old switch, yeah, it's hosed. I think the plastic is worn and maybe a little tiny spring has broken so the switch doesn't keep continuity in the Run position. Probably heading the direction of retrofitting a modern switch when the current one fails. Not really that hard, now that I've figured out how it's supposed to work.

 

[BPT]

Did you do the relays also?  Or just the wires?

[jp9094]

Just to add a few bits to the discussion. My '83 r65 LS had mechanical problems with the ignition switch (when I got it to turn it worked fine). I assume it was an original US switch as the owners manual shows it coming from a dealer in the US. This switch had 3 positions: Instrument lights (with parking and tail light), Ignition without head light and ignition with tail light!. I just replaced it with a used switch from the UK which only has 2 positions: Instrument lights (etc) and ignition with headlight! The previous discussion seems to indicate it should be the other way round. In any event I am happy to have a switch I don't have to "fiddle" with to get to work. Any suggestions on refurbishing the old lock?

[jp9094]

Just got a reply from the seller in the UK who tells me all switches in the UK went to headlight on all the time sometime in the 1980's. FWIW!

[jp9094]

Mike A,

I just noted today that I have the same problem. Recently put in a new (used) ignition switch and the tail light goes out when the headlight is on. If I read what you said correctly you put a connector between # 56 and # 58 on the switch and this fixed the problem. Can't ride at night till I fix the problem. Hope you see this and thanks in advance.

[orforester]

I have a switch that is still good, but no key for it, how do you break them apart and can you re-key it like most other BMW locks? I have done several saddlebag locks by using a file/dremel to align the pins to fit a new key. but how do you get the ignition open to do that?

[jp9094]

Just an update and an answer to the last question (see above). After riding around awhile with the replacement switch, I took the original lock with some blank keys to my local locksmith. He very easily was able to make me 2 keys for the lock that worked! Took one day and cost $25 ! Now have the original European ignition lock in place and can ride without headlights should I so choose!

FWIW