The $600 C clip

[mrclubike]

I recommend changing the oil out again when engine is hot and all the junk is still suspended in the oil

[Tony Smith]

I recommend changing the oil out again when engine is hot and all the junk is still suspended in the oil

What he said....

I'd also check the tappets regularly for the first few weeks - like you I am running fairly low cylinder head torque - I'd check that at 100, 250, 500 and 1,000km - don't slack off to re-tension - just put the torque wrench on the nut and see if it moves before giving whatever signal your wrench gives that the set tension has been reached.

[mrclubike]

I recommend changing the oil out again when engine is hot and all the junk is still suspended in the oil

What he said....

I'd also check the tappets regularly for the first few weeks - like you I am running fairly low cylinder head torque - I'd check that at 100, 250, 500 and 1,000km - don't slack off to re-tension - just put the torque wrench on the nut and see if it moves before giving whatever signal your wrench gives that the set tension has been reached.

I agree with Tony 

[Kookaburra]

35 km on a 27c day out and into Sydney. Dodging the dangerous Sunday arvo traffic on the tollways that have encircled the city  trying to go from throttle full closed to throttle full open and keep the revs in the suggested band. Bike seemed buzzier and stronger than previously but that may just be auto suggestion (bad pun intended). On return to base I drained the oil and pulled the filter out without burning myself. Oil was starting to discolour and noticed a few specks of gasket goo.  No obvious signs of metal in the oil and minimal fluff on the magnetic drain plug. Then the overnight wait for the cool down such as it is in a Sydney summer.
On the morrow I checked the valve clearances (which had closed marginally) before retorquing and resetting. Then the curse of V I Lenin strikes again. This time it is a stud on the right cylinder which has gone soft.  So I call the stud doctor and pull off  the right cylinder to await his expert ministrations and further invoice. We are dealing with steel studs in 35 year old aluminium which has been subject to some odd strains over the years. Hope this not the start of a four stud saga in the right cylinder.
So now back together again with new oil and filter, retorqued heads and reset tappets and preparing for a 100km running in ride.
Thanks for the tip about checking the head torque without doing the 'loosen before retorquing' thing. I will adopt this practice on my return as well as the tappet adjustment intervals suggested by Tony.

[Tony Smith]

Gee but you are having a lot of stud problems with that bike. Maybe have your thread doctor do the lot in one go to save yourself the call out fee?

[Kookaburra]

Did consider getting the stud doctor to do all four right studs but frankly didn't have the readies.
Yesterday a 100 km run rolling the throttle on and off and dicing with the B doubles on the tollway out of the city. Turned down the tick over and rebalanced the carbs on return. On the morrow retorqued the heads to an all round 23 ft/lb  and adjusted the tappets. The sticky Penrite 20w/60 is a lovely straw colour.
Beautiful- the bike has never gone as well as this. So probably time to draw a veil over this chapter with a shot of the remnant of the $600 circlip that dropped out of the original destroyed left piston.
Hopefully a final query. I will be checking the torque and tappets at 250 ,500 and 1,000km. With new piston rings in one barrel and new valves and springs in both, what should be the final running in and oil/filter change regime from here?
 A big thanks again to the generous Tony Smith who made this rebuild possible and other gurus mrclubike and Barry 45er for solid advice along the way.