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Author Topic: Running in new engine components  (Read 1573 times)

Offline jamestnewsonr65

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Running in new engine components
« on: November 16, 2017, 04:23:18 AM »
I've changed and refurbished a few of the engine components on the r65 as I had some leaking push rod tube seals and thought that I may as well replace a few other elements as I was unsure on the compression of the engine.

The engine now has new push rod tubes, seals, head seals, vapor blasted cylinder heads, piston heads and valves along with new piston rings.

I was wondering what the run in procedure would be after renewing these type of elements for an older bike. I've run in new bikes before but I imagine the process may be different for these bikes.

Any pointers or help appreciated.
1983 R65LS completely refurbished to my liking.
1985 R80 nearly stock rebuild (basically new bike).
1981 R65 (box of bits).

Offline DonC

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Re: Running in new engine components
« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2017, 07:24:32 AM »
I've been using this method on all my engines, car and motorcycle, and have been very happy with the results!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Offline Barry

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Re: Running in new engine components
« Reply #2 on: November 16, 2017, 01:25:13 PM »
The only things you replaced that need running in are the piston rings and cylinders (assuming you deglazed or honed the bores).  I'd be inclined to follow the advice that DonC posted above.
Barry Cheshire, England 79 R45

Offline Bob_Roller

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Re: Running in new engine components
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2017, 03:34:39 PM »
An '82 LS should have nikasil cylinders, so no honing should have been done .

I would put a couple hundred km's on the bike, then check the torque of the cylinder/head nuts, then check the valve clearance .
« Last Edit: November 16, 2017, 03:39:34 PM by Bob_Roller »
'81 R65
'82 R65 LS
'84 R65 LS
'87 Moto Guzzi V65 Lario
'02 R1150R
Riding all year long since 1993 .
I'll give up my R65, when they pry my cold dead hands from the handlebars !!!!!

Offline DonC

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Re: Running in new engine components
« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2017, 04:38:05 PM »

This is from Tom Cutter a airhead racer and mechanic for a very long time.

 "When I hone Nikasil cylinders, I use a medium-grit flex-hone and turn
 it as fast as I push it up and down. This gives a good approximation of a 45
 degree crosshatch. I listen to the sound of the hone in the cylinder and stop
 when it changes, indicating that the surface glaze has been removed. The
 actual Nikasil material is so hard that the hone I use barely touches it, so
 in effect, though I call it honing, I'm really just deglazing the cylinder in
 a consistent and thorough manner." JT

Offline Bob_Roller

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Re: Running in new engine components
« Reply #5 on: November 16, 2017, 05:08:26 PM »
This is the first thing I have read about honing/ deglazing a nikasil cylinder .
'81 R65
'82 R65 LS
'84 R65 LS
'87 Moto Guzzi V65 Lario
'02 R1150R
Riding all year long since 1993 .
I'll give up my R65, when they pry my cold dead hands from the handlebars !!!!!

Offline Justin B.

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Re: Running in new engine components
« Reply #6 on: November 16, 2017, 07:05:28 PM »
On the Junkyard Dawg I just put the new rings in, slathered the piston/ring assembly with Type-F ATF, put it together, and ran the snot out of it!  Years ago I remember an old mechanic telling me, "Break 'em in like you're gonna drive 'em!"

Now, with a new cam it's best to properly break them in.
Justin B.

2004 BMW R1150RT
1981 R100RT - Summer bike, NEKKID!!!

Offline Tony Smith

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Re: Running in new engine components
« Reply #7 on: November 16, 2017, 07:52:23 PM »
Quote
This is the first thing I have read about honing/ deglazing a nikasil cylinder .

I reckon it is overkill, nikasil is so damm hard that it doesn't glaze up, what happens is that bits of carbon, piston and piston ring get ground up into tiny, tiny pieces and fill in the "valleys" between the nikasil "peaks".  You get a perfectly fine deglazing result with strong detergent in hot water and a "scotchbrite" pad.
 
When I first read something similar to the above I did not believe it, i remained sceptical right up until I did as instructed with the hot water, detergent and scotchbrite. The cylinder was quite shiny beforehand and not afterwards.

As part of my lifelong quest to avoid anything remotely reminiscent of manual labour, the next time I have nikasil cylinders to prepare for re-use I'll pop them in the dishwasher, I suspect that will have the desired result.
1978 R100RS| 1981 R100RS (JPS) | 1984 R65 | 1992 KLE500 | 2002 R1150GSA |

Offline Justin B.

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Re: Running in new engine components
« Reply #8 on: November 16, 2017, 10:02:15 PM »
Mama gonna whup your a$$ big time...  :o
Justin B.

2004 BMW R1150RT
1981 R100RT - Summer bike, NEKKID!!!

Offline Tony Smith

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Re: Running in new engine components
« Reply #9 on: November 17, 2017, 02:23:39 AM »
Quote
Mama gonna whup your a$$ big time...  :o
I got sprung a few years back after putting a gearbox in the dishwasher - the plastic liner was stained permanently.

The replacement dishwasher has a stainless steel liner and stainless steel shelves in order to make detection harder.
1978 R100RS| 1981 R100RS (JPS) | 1984 R65 | 1992 KLE500 | 2002 R1150GSA |

Offline jamestnewsonr65

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Re: Running in new engine components
« Reply #10 on: November 17, 2017, 05:38:54 AM »
Thanks for the replies. Looks like the link DonC posted follows something else I was reading and looks like the way forward.

- Crank starter with no fuel supply to prime oil until the oil light goes out
- Turn fuel on
- Start engine w/ minimal choke
- Immediately push RPM to 3000 for 15 seconds
- Push RPM to 3500 - 4000 RPM for 30 seconds
- Shut down
- Check for leaks
- Ride at 3500 - 4500 RPM for 20 miles alternating between full throttle open and full throttle closed.
- @20mi change oil
- Retorque heads using head torque procedure after letting sit overnight
- Follow normal break in procedure for 600 miles
- BMW break-in procedure from R90/6 owner's manual:
- Vary engine speeds and loads in various gears without exceeding maximum specified speeds. Winding roads in hilly country are particularly suitable for braking-in the machine. On straight, flat foods, it is best to run the machine almost up to maximum permitted break-in speed, then allow the machine to cover the next section of road with the engine off load.
- @50mi change oil adjust valve lash
- @200mi change oil and filter
- @300mi adjust valve lash
- @600mi adjust valve lash, retorque heads, change oil using break in oil
- @1500mi change oil to synthetic 20W50 and filter
- @2000mi adjust valve lash
- @5000mi standard tuneup procedure
- Follow normal maintenance schedule after 5000 miles
1983 R65LS completely refurbished to my liking.
1985 R80 nearly stock rebuild (basically new bike).
1981 R65 (box of bits).

Offline DonC

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Re: Running in new engine components
« Reply #11 on: November 17, 2017, 06:46:42 AM »
Sounds like a good plan James.