Two Electrical Switch Questions

[BPT]

Any tricks or advice on getting the accessory switches to seat in the dash pad?  I can get them down through the metal rectangle opening straight and evenly but can't get them the go all the way down and pop into place past the little metal spring tabs on the switch.  It's an awkward spot since part of the pad isn't solid. I've tried puching, prying, tapping, etc. but no luck. I didn't want to break them and was hoping I was missing something simple.

On the headlight switch assembly :  do things start flying out of there when you loosen the screw under the turn signal switch?  Or is it possible to take that part off of the lever without the insides being exposed?  I need to replace mine and I know you have to be careful of the springs and things popping our but I'm not sure when that happens.  I've loosened the screw and seems like I can feel some spring tension but can't see anything up in there.

       Thanks in advance

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

1)  I never had a problem getting the factory switch to go in the hole.  Maybe pull from the bottom?

2)  You can remove the switch pod with no worries.
Things start flying when you attempt to disassemble the pod itself.

[Bob_Roller]

I think I filed down the metal on the instrument housing to get the two switches installed .

Didn't take too much filing to get them to work .

This was 17 years ago, my memory isn't that great anymore .

[BPT]

Good to know Rob, that's what I was hoping but didn't want to take the chance I was wrong. That's the part I need  to change and thought that would be easier than the whole clutch handle assembly.  Very happy to know it comes off as one whole thing.

As for the dash switches, like you said Bob, I had filed the metal a bit previously to fit an aftermarket switch. I was worried it might now be too loose.
Its hard to see from underneath, much less get my hands in there. It looks like I am getting it into the metal frame ok, just can't get it all the way to get those nubs to catch.
I was hoping some one would have a trick.  I had to give up today.  I'll revisit next week.  I'm going to look for a piece of plastic or similar that is the same size as the edges of the switch and see if I can use that to try and tap it in.  It's just awkward with it on the bike.
Ant other suggestions are welcome.


         Thanks

[BPT]

Thanks for the replies, I got the light switch "pod" off and now see how it is all one thing.  I have never taken my old one completely off but now I'm pretty sure something must be broken as opposed to just worn out.

For the new(er) one - I've used some contact cleaner and the switches and button feel ok but I think they need some lubrication. What's a good one to use, or absolutely avoid?  I'm thinking it will have to be a spray due to everything being closed up, especially the Hi-Lo switch, which is the one that really needs it. It's got some spring to it but will still stick in what should be the momentary position.

I've been using Deoxit for all of my electricAL contacts but not sure if it does much for making the surfaces slicker.


       Thanks

[Justin B.]

I use Deoxit D5. 

[BPT]

The one I have is what they call "non-drip, quick dry".  I wonder if the standard one is better for lube purposes.......    hmmm

      Thanks

[tunnelrider]

I use CRC 5-56 for an electrical parts lube. It's low viscocity will allow it to wick in everywhere and doesn't evaporate. It is also an anti corrosive and according to Snowbum, BMW used it on electrical connectors when assembling our airheads.

[BPT]

I'd seen the CRC products before but never used them.  Lots of good reviews online saying it's a wonder spray.
While looking at those I found one called 2-26, supposedly specifically for electrical contacts and such. And only $3 at Home Depot!  I may give it a try since I had to order the other Deoxit, if my local one has it in the store.
The biggest problem with this switch (as you may know) is that you can't access it so need a spray that you can direct and will get down into the right spots.

    Thanks for the tip.

[tunnelrider]

The biggest problem with this switch (as you may know) is that you can't access it so need a spray that you can direct and will get down into the right spots.

Is that the low beam/hi beam switch you are mentioning?  5-56 will be able to find it's way down if you spray it at that switch under the yellow toggle (just pull that off from the front). Spray inside the turn signal switch too and the back of the pod then shake it around, hold it upside down for a while or find a place to rest it upside down, it will probably find it's way around.  I believe it's called wicking, a thin liquid finding it's way into small crevices, so I found out this week..  More correctly wicking probably means liquid down assembled threads. I'd better look up the dictionary now 

I've not used the CRC2-26 but if it mentions lubrication then it'll be good.

[BPT]

Yep, it's that yellow switch. My current one has been wonky since I bought the bike.  I haven’t taken it completely apart but it looks like something is broken or out of place (a piece of metal, maybe the spring?).

I found a used one on ebay and seems better, just that this yellow switch was slightly sticky on the momentary Hi beam - a little sluggish to spring back up.

I got some 2-26 yesteady and it seemed to make a difference.  And it had a nice viscosity, seemed to go into the hard-to-get places but also didn't run all over the place.  We'll see when I get it installed.  And then I can take the old one completely apart without having to worry about not getting it back together again.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

When I bought my R65 new; of course, all the switches worked like they were supposed to.

Well, I found, that by holding that flasher switch at a midpoint, I could get both filaments to light together, which was much brighter than my high beam, alone.

Mine quit moving smoothly with enough of that action.

[BPT]

So maybe mine's PO learned that trick as well??  The problem with mine is that the momentary position sticks, but the one that should does not.  Some times it won't stay on Hi at all, other times it will until I hit a bump.  Not a huge deal except that I do find myself on dark country roads fairly often and it's a pain during those rides home.

I'm going to do an autopsy on the worse one to see what was causing it.

[BPT]

As for the dash switches - turns out it wasn't just me.  I was at my local shop and asked about them and the guy said "Oh, they just pop in". 10-15 minutes later of pushing, pulling, hammering, etc., they still wouldn't seat.  He ended up getting a file and that's what it took to get one all the way in. Looks like I'll have to do that with the other one as well.  I guess maybe the switches are just a tiny bit too big for the opening? It looks like they might be slightly wider at the top where they snap in since the bottom fit just fine through the metal opening.
 
You were right, Bob. But since I'd already filed some once already, I was worried about doing too much more.
Anyway, thanks for the replies. I'm just glad to know that it wasn't just me that had a problem with something so simple.