Crankshaft sprocket

[Tony Smith]

  Boy you deserved a good pinot after that weekend. 

Tomorrow I am planning:-

Oil and filter changes to the wife's G650GS
Set tappets and change coolant KLE500
Full service R65 - change all oils and filters and set tappets and timing.
Full service as above for R65/80

If I get time I hope to put high ratio final drive on R65 and put r65 final drive on R65/80 as its final drive is leaking and is generally cactus, needing a full rehab.

[tunnelrider]

Tomorrow I am planning:-

Oil and filter changes to the wife's G650GS
Set tappets and change coolant KLE500
Full service R65 - change all oils and filters and set tappets and timing.
Full service as above for R65/80

That's a busy day Tony but I see a few chances in there to keep yourself hydrated and enthused!

[Tony Smith]

Just a thought.

Borescopes are so cheap now that I'd have a look through the plug hole and if the valves/pistons had no witness marks I'd leave them alone, do the cam chain and then do compression/leak down tests and if that all looked OK, then I wouldn't pull the heads.

OTOH, if there are witness marks indicating piston/valve contact, then you get to do a full top end service with new valves.

[wilcom]

Tomorrow I am planning:-

Oil and filter changes to the wife's G650GS
Set tappets and change coolant KLE500
Full service R65 - change all oils and filters and set tappets and timing.
Full service as above for R65/80

If I get time I hope to put high ratio final drive on R65 and put r65 final drive on R65/80 as its final drive is leaking and is generally cactus, needing a full rehab.

awaiting full report.....................

[Tony Smith]

Got as far as the full service on the R65.

Nothing ever goes smoothly and i had to put a seal kit into the rear brake caliper on the KLE, that and the bloody thing needing 20 minutes worth if disassembly before you can pull the rocker cover.

Kawasaki hang your head in shame for the absurd idea of making it impossible to pull the rocker cover without disconnecting 2 water hoses - and hang your head even lower for the method of retention on those hoses.

[wilcom]

Nothing ever goes smoothly

Good job Tony

Taking the cooling system apart to get the rocker box off would have been enough for me to light the BBQ

[tunnelrider]

Nothing ever goes smoothly

He he usually doesn't here either.  Upon taking the heads off, with no evidence marks of the pistons hitting the valves upon timing chain breakage I thought I may not bother taking the valves out.  Then thought it'd be good to check anyway since they were reconditioned 8mths ago and 8000km on 'em.  Found a loose exhaust valve guide able to moved up and down by hand! Luckily guide bore still good and no lateral movement, valve and valve seat look ok.  Now off to the engine shop for a warranty fix as well!

[tunnelrider]

OK, well... I probably should have got a new woodruff key considering the abuse (by a PO) it got on starting the old sprocket.  I filed the woodruff key, checked it was straight, crankshaft smooth, new sprocket was smooth, and considering the old sprocket came off easily, in the end I've largely drifted the new sprocket on.  How many have had the luxury of sliding the new sprocket on, on heating?  I used Snowbum's tip on heating the new sprocket in oil. Guess the surfaces have to be perfect to be able to slide on.  Pretty hard to judge down on the center stand...  But at least it's done.  Just painting the timing and starter cover, top end clean and rebuild, airbox clean and new reed valve to go... 

[mrclubike]

mine slid right on with heating
But it was hotter than it would have been from just heating in oil
Like Tony said you have to get them hot to the point they turn a slight straw color
and you cant heat it very far away from the bike or it will cool of before you get it on 
It took me 3 tries before I got it on

[georgesgiralt]

Humm...
I would not go too much above150°C when heating. I would fear that the thermal treatment get damaged if you heat too much.
Never changed the sprockets, though even if I changed the timing chain.

[Bob_Roller]

Heat treatment of steel is usually in the 1800 F, 980 C range .

Unless your are using an ocy atcetaline torch, I don't think you're going to interfer with heat treatment .

The oil temperature in my R65's, exceed 150 C during the summer months here .

[georgesgiralt]

IIRC from my school boy era, 150 °C was the starting temperature for a smoothing heat treatment to reduce stress in heat treated parts.
I recall it is the temperature not to go above for ball roller bearings.
But I can be wrong and I can't find my '70 vintage school books ... 

[skippyc]

When you are going old school 750 to 800 deg c is hardening temperature which is cherry red and approx 400 deg is straw color which is spring tempering temperature.
The composition of the steel makes a big difference to how it reacts to heat and how hard it remains when it is in its normal state.

[D Mann]

Engine in the bike, no need to remove. When you reinstall, heat the bearing and cool the shaft. With no bearing heater, I warmed mine on the grill in a pan of motor oil until the oil started to smoke. When the bearing was almost hot I cooled the shaft with a can of freon. Everything slid together with just little tap on the inner race.