Neutral Indicator Switch

[Frank_M]

I changed oils recently in both the engine and tranny. The next day I noticed an oil puddle under the bike and figured I failed to tighten a plug sufficiently. But on closer inspection the oil was dripping from around the neutral indicator switch. I tried tightening it, but it didn't move much and continued to drip oil. Finally I removed it for inspection. Now here's the problem. How do I fit another one up into that stingy area of space? My fingers just are not small enough.

[Justin B.]

Some do it by removing the rear motor-mount stud and removing the spacer and others advocate pulling the tranny back/removing.  Never replaced one without the tranny being out so I can't really make an "informed" recommendation.

[Bob_Roller]

Frank, before you install the switch in your transmission, make sure it is the correct switch. I don't know anything about your mechanical apptitude, but you need to use a multi-meter to see when the switch activates,  if memory serves me correct, and sometimes it doesn't, you should have continuity across the two terminals of the switch with the switch just sitting there. You need to remove the aft engine mount bolt or stud, far enough to remove the round metal spacer at the back of the engine. I usually support the back of the engine with a bottle jack just up against the engine to take weight off of the mount stud. The wires can be quite troublesome to attach to the switch when installed, I've bent the metal terminals of the switch to make it a bit easier, I've also broken the terminal on the switch once trying to bend it, so it does have it's risks. Thread the switch into the transmission tighten it up ( not too much, you can cause the switch to leak if tightened too much ), attach the wires, and make sure the neutral light works before you go any further. If it works, now the fun part of re-installing the round spacer, I beveled the edge of the spacer to help getting it started, I also freeze the spacer to shrink it a bit, it really is a tight fit. Put a little oil or grease on the 'ears' that the spacer goes between, and now it's just a matter of finesse and force to get the spacer installed. I would not recommend using a hammer or other impact device, other than a soft faced hammer  plastic or rubber will do the job. Re-install the mount stud, put the nut on and torque to the specified value ( I'm at work and don't have access to a manual for the  torque ). Then fill the transmission with gear oil.  Good luck !!

[nhmaf]

all I know is that I couldn't get my fingers in there well enough to replace it without pulling the transmission back.

[Justin B.]

So, Frank, there ya go!  One for pulling tranny back and one for the "other" way.  If this bike is new to you it might be a good excuse to pull the trans back/remove and clean and regrease the tranny input splines.

Have fun...

[Bob_Roller]

I think I've replaced my neutral switch about 4-5 times in the 26 years I've had the bike. The first time was about 5 hours, the last time I think it was about 45 minutes to an hour. I think the trick is to freeze the spacer, I can get dry ice at the local supermarkets,  dry ice in an alcohol bath seems to do the trick for me . Frank, as Justin has said, if the bike is 'new' to you, and you don't have any documentation that the transmission input spline cleaning and lube was accomplished, I would recommend getting it done as soon as possible. Member I think it was NHMAF had the splines fail on a bike that had less than 15,000 miles, and it requires the transmission input shaft to be replaced about a $300 US part, plus a transmission rebuild ( $700 + US ), because the transmission needs to be completly dis- assembled to replace the shaft. Also a new clutch assembly and pressure plates at a cost of about $350 US.

[Justin B.]

Gee, Bob, you must really be hard on them switches!    Of course, now that I've bragged I'll probably have all of them fail witnin a month...  If I ever need to replace one I'll remember the freezing thing and try it if I don't need to take out the tranny for something else.

I have had two (on recently acquired bikes that had been sitting for a long time) act wonky like not registering neutral until the box was good and warmed up.  After putting Berrymans B-12 in the tranny, and riding for a while to stir everything up, they fixed themselves and worked fine.  You will notice that I use a lot of B-12, I like to refer to it as "Mechanic-in-a-Can"!

[nhmaf]

Yes, if you don't have documentation on when that bike's clutch splines were inspected/lubed, you
may as well dive in there sooner than later and possibly save yourself alot of pain and cash outlay.
Learn from my pain !

I've got some photos - one of these days I gotta write up the whole transmission removal and
clutch repair process and link it in our tech section.

 

[Frank_M]

Thank you one and all for your responses. I’ve taken a close note of every advisory detail.

Just a few remarks on myself and the Beemer. My mechanical aptitude has its limitations, mostly because of tool availability, time, and a general feeling of impatience/frustration arising from virtually having to repair or replace something on something daily, whether tractor, baler, pickup, or this ol’ farmhouse that’s home. (Then, too, there’s a summer place.) I’ve done some work on transmissions, none on engines. I bought the R65 in the early 90s with fewer than 5000 miles on it. Although immaculate in appearance, it soon showed it had been sitting for some time, plus the clutch went out while traveling through West Virginia. I’ve ridden it only sparingly in recent years and it did not receive much attention. This year I did not license it, but am taking some time to give it a little more care.

FYI, I own also a ’67 R50, which I bought new and rode until someone made a U-turn from the side of the road in my path. The frame was not bent and I replaced the front end. It still needs attention, but I ride it a few times every summer to keep the parts lubricated.

Again, thanks. Reading the various posts on numerous topics is re-acquainting myself with the bike.

[Frank_M]

Switch is in and spacer replaced. Not much in the dry ice department in my secluded neck of the woods, Bob, but I put the spacer in our own freezer for a few days. That alone helped to get it started between the "ears." However, each time I tapped it in, it rolled upward and I had to start over. Finally, I rolled a finger around the ears and noticed something I hadn't noticed, which was that one ear had a significant burr. I filed it in about 15 seconds and the rest was relatively easy.

[Ed Miller]

Cool.  Did it fix the leak?

[Frank_M]

Sure did, Ed.

[Justin B.]

Good work, Frank!

[Semper Gumby]

I'm also going to have to replace a "good" neutral switch that has started leaking.  

Since I need to do the spline lube I'm going to remove the tranny.

Before I put the new switch in I'm going to JB Weld the plastic cap around the two electrical connectors to try and prevent the futur inevitable leak.

Does BMW give a damn about the poor quality of simple parts?  Is there someplace I can write somebody in Germany and complain?

[Bob_Roller]

Bill

This last time I removed the transmission this past weekend, I cut the ty-wraps that hold the wire harness for the neutral switch, and disconnected the wires at a small connector on the left side of the bike.

This connector also has the wire for the low oil pressure switch, I cut the ty-wraps holding the wire for the low oil pressure switch, removed the wire at the pressure switch, and pulled the whole wire harness out with the transmission.
 
Easier to mess with the wires on the neutral switch with the transmission out of the bike.

My neutral switch is also starting to leak, so I'm changing that again.


Also a little troubleshooting tip, if you remove this two 'pin' connector, you can bypass the neutral switch by putting a wire on the pin inside the connector on the 'bike' side not the 'switch side', and touch the wire to ground with the ignition key in the run position, if the bulb and circuit are good, the neutral light will come on.

You can also use an ohmmeter on the mating pin on the 'switch' side of the connector, connect one probe of the ohmmeter to the pin in the connector, and the other probe to a good ground.

When you shift through the gears, ( you can rock the rear wheel and shift the transmission) you should get continuity or almost 0 ohms when the switch is activated when the transmission is in neutral.

If you choose the wrong pin at the 'bike' side connector, the low oil pressure light will come on instead of the neutral light, so there's an easy check for the low oil presuure switch as well.