Winter project fun!!!

[JJH]

1979 R65.  I have decided to start my winter projects.  On tap is replacing the push rod tube seals, replace the rear shocks, and maybe replacing the springs in the bean can.  I have a few questions for those with more experience.

1.  I know that I can replace the push rod seals without removing the head, but some recommend pulling the head and cleaning the head and piston.  The question is how much carbon is too much?  What is the best way of cleaning the carbon?  Is it worth it?  I have read several how to's on the push rod tube seal process.  Is there anything special about performing this on the R65?

2.  Motobins has good prices on gaskets, o-rings, seals and they are about the only place for canister springs.  Has anyone from the US purchased from them?  Do you have to pay customs, or do you just pay and go?

3.  Has anyone tried the Betor shocks that motobins sells?  I have read the reviews from the past and they were... well not positive.  What about these new ones?  They can't be worse than my current ones.  I hit a few bumps and I have a hard tail!

I am pretty excited finishing these projects, especially being able to ride without my right boot being covered in oil drops!

Thanks,
John

[BPT]

I recently placed my first order with Motobins and I was amazed. My order was sent via FedEx and arrived just a couple of days after I placed it. I think it was Thursday night/Friday morning and it arrived Monday by 9-10am.
No issues with customs. I was told by FedEx that an int'l shipment would require someone be there to sign for it, it would not be left on the door step if nobody was there.

[JJH]

BPT-  Thanks for the reply.  I was hoping that was the case.

[mrclubike]

I had about 65000 miles and was having a problem with spark knock 
So I had to clean the carbon out
Mine was so bad You could see where the carbon was hitting the piston and the white peaks in the carbon where it would start to glow and cause the knocking
If you have it apart you should just go ahead and do it.
I didn't see the piston rings  on MotoBins so i didn't replace them.  I wish i would have after i did find them and seen how cheap they were

So how much carbon is to much
I guess when you start to  have spark knock problems

Motobins is fantastic
You can order Sunday night and have it  by that Thursday or  Friday with FedEx (Ofallon MO)
Biggest hold up is that they require a signature for delivery and that can delay getting it a day or you can go to the terminal and pick it up

Another thing about Motobins is they have kits (Gasket kits and bearing kits etc.)

Max BMW is Great also
I always add the "VOR" to help speed up the delivery

Max and MotoBins takes about the same time to arrive

Remember the the Pound is week and that makes MotoBins prices very attractive even with the higher  shipping   

[JJH]

Thanks for the information.  How did you go about cleaning the carbon?.  When reassembling the cylinder/piston/head do you use any special grease or oil on the cylinder?

[mrclubike]

Just a little engine oil on the cyl
I just noticed you do not have  Nikasil Cyl liners so the above rings will not work in your application.
Here is a Link to Snobums article on cyl work
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/break-in.htm

I used a brush on a drill to clean mine
just stay off of the head to cyl mating surface

[clonmore1]

JJH,

I have just fitted TEC shocks to mine (http://shop.tecbikeparts.com/), I should have some images up later today in the restoration section.

Not used them on the road yet as the bike isn't finished, but they have received good reviews in the U.K and are well priced at £50 a pair, not sure on shipping costs, maybe somebody distributes them in the US?

[nhmaf]

I haven't had to pull the heads off on my R65 yet, but when I did on my R100 to change its pushrod seals (and also to solder the seal collars in place on the tubes) I left the piston in the cylinder so I didn't have to replace the rings or mess with a ring compressor.   It isn't that they are that difficult to do, but at the time it was "don't mess with them if they ain't broken or leaking", and it does save a few 10-spots.

I used Simple Green and both plastic and brass brushes to clean the carbon off the top of the piston and the combustion chamber in the head.  Just keep the piston top up at the top of the cylinder when cleaning and keep it pointed level or downward to avoid any carbon "crumbs" from getting down into the rings area.

The collars on your push rod tubes should be brazed in place - if they aren't, I can tell you where they should be positioned so you can get them fixed.  Just make sure you get the o rings, a VERY light, whisper thin layer of Yamabond can be used on cylinder base-to-case areas where there are no o rings.  I put a little silicone grease on the ends of the pushrod tubes that slide into the rubber pushrod  seals so they can be easily turned into position.  Before inserting everything into place coat the outside of the pushrod seals with clean engine oil.

Mind the orientation of the new head gaskets (Never re use head gaskets) as they should go on only one way -- if you look closely at the holes for the pushrod tube in the cylinder, you'll see they are slightly asymmetric with respect to the headbolt stud at the 6 o'clock position.  The gasket is similarly slightly asymmetric there to match it when it is put on the right way.  Otherwise, the pushrod can rub on the edge of the gasket.

[JJH]

Mrclubike-thanks for the hints for cleaning the carbon
Chris S.-  I appreciate shock information, certainly the price is attractive
nhmaf-thanks for the hints