Battery And Accessory Connections, Etc.

[BPT]

I'm wondering about how everyone does the connections when adding things - charging leads, accessory lights, etc.  I know that you have to be careful about the total load so I don't mean that I intend to add all kinds of things drawing power at the same time.  I am talking about the actual connections - do most of you connect straight to the battery, use separate block or fuse box, etc.?

I've seen some of the separate fuse block type things but they are usually for the ones not only adding extra connections but also calling for more power - heated clothing and such.

This came about as I am trying to iron out, clean up, simplify my electrical things.  I'm thinking it would be better to not have multiple things connected straight to the battery (and it is more of a hassle when I have to remove anything there) but wasn't sure if doing something remotely would be worth the trouble.

Any thoughts, theories, or suggestions  or some clever ways everyone else makes these nice and neat?

Semi related - I remember reading that the blue plug under the seat is some sort of an accessory plug but can't remember for what.  Is it just for hazard lights or some other lighting use?  Can it be put to use for anything else?

                               Thanks  

[montmil]

The lame answer is it depends. If you want to hook up the leads for a battery tender, go direct to the terminals. I do that on all five of my bikes.

Depending on the number of accessory items, it might be easier, tidy and safer to locate a terminal and run a lead from the battery to the terminal. Adding a blade-type fuse within the accessory wiring harness is always a good idea.

Should you be considering more powerful horns, You'll be happier developing a complete harness that utilizes the BMW's small, 22ga horn button wires to trigger a relay while taking 12v power direct from the battery. Again, fuse that circuit. Why go to all that effort? Those 22ga wires were initially OK to deliver power to those wennie pancake horns but may be damaged if you try to push power through those few, tiny, copper wire stands. My R100S, R65 and Triumph 900 have Freeway Blasters and fully upgraded wiring plus fuses.

There are some nice fuse blocks on the market that may simplify adding several aftermarket 12v accessories. Some have a terminal to take a heavier gauge wire from the battery's positive post.

IIRC, that blue plug has switched 12v. Multimeter will confirm.

[BPT]

Thanks Montmil, that helps.  I currently have battery tender leads and some sidecar lights connected.  I need to add another set of lights and also wanted to put a USB adapter for charging a phone/GPS.  For low capacity, I didn't think I needed the fancy, fully fused, switchable, etc. boxes I've seen some guys use.  But thought that it might make things neater and better if I did what you said and used a separate connection spot for these.  I was figuring that it was better to have as few things directly on the battery as possible.  And, it's already kind of a pain with those short bolts and tight space in that area anyway.

As far as the horn, I think that I have the original weenie one.  I've thought of upgrading but I knew that I needed to be careful with that.  Perhaps when that time comes, you can give some specifics on the harness/relay that you set up?  I think that Eastern Beaver used to have a nice one but they don't do them anymore and it wasn't exactly cheap.  I am good with wiring as far as making connections and what not but electrical is not my forte', and I'd need guidance as to what type of relay, fuse size, etc.

About the blue plug - do you know what it's original purpose was?  And when you say switched, you mean connected to a switch already on the bike?  I know that I had read somewhere what it was for (I thought on this board?) but can't remember.  And I was wondering if anyone had utilized it for anything else?  Seems like it sits there unused fro most folks.

                              Thanks

[Bob_Roller]

The red wire on the unused connector under the tank, usually with a blue cap, is a hot wire powered all the time, unfused .

Around the instruments, there is an unused green wire with black spiral band, it was for a voltmeter, you may be able to use that for your GPS / phone charger .

I purchased a harness from Eastern Beaver about 5 years ago, yeah it was a bit pricey !!!

If you have a Radio Shack store near you, you can get the relay there for about $6 or so .

[BPT]

Let's see if this pic posts correctly............  Here is the blue plug I was talking about.  I guess this is the one you say has the red wire, Bob?

[Bob_Roller]

Yes, that's the one, on my bikes, the connector is black and the cap is blue .

[BPT]

And I am not sure if I am breaking board etiquette here with too many questions but I was going to ask about voltage meters also, didn't know if I should make a separate post.  But since Bob mentioned that connection for one...........

I need one.  Is it best to connect straight to the battery?  Or to the factory spot mentioned? I saw that Snowbum recommended one for about $50.  I see a few on here that have gotten some on eBay for much, much less.  How big of a difference is there with quality, accuracy and price with these?

[Bob_Roller]

If you connect it to the battery, it will indicate all the time and wear the battery down when the bike is not running, you need to connect it to a switched power source, unpowered when the key is not in the run position .

You can connect it at the factory connector, just try to keep it off of a heavy power use circuit if you choose to wire it elsewhere, you may get a false low voltage reading when the circuit is used .

[BPT]

Makes perfect sense Bob, I should have thought of that (not putting it directly to the battery).

When you say to the factory connector, are you referring to the aforementioned green/black spiral wire?  Other than convenience of wiring, would there be a reason that connecting somewhere else would be preferential?  I am looking to get the best overall read in order to keep up with my weak charging system.

                  Thanks

[Bob_Roller]

Well, if you wanted to, you could connect the voltmeter to the ignition switch, there should be a terminal that's not used on the switch, you'll probably get the best reading of how the charging system is doing .

[BPT]

That's what I needed to know Bob, thanks.  I need to get underneath that area and see what's going on there.  I'll see if I can identify those wires you mentioned and see if I have an empty spot on the switch as well.  

Next - to find a meter...........

[mrclubike]

The blue connector can be used for what ever you want
The factory had  a auxiliary fog light harness that plugged into it
and may be some other stuff
I used it for my AUX Driving lights  
It has the following circuits in it

Red = battery positive on all the time
Brown = ground  or earth
yellow = low beam
white = high beam
Green and Black = fused battery POS when key on

Max BMW has the blue connector that plugs into it and the pins for the connector but it is pricey

The correct way  to use that connection is to use battery positive (RT) Red wire  from it (add a Fuse) and turn that off  an on with a relay using the key signal (GNSW) Grn Blk wire    

My digital volt meter is connected at the factory connection (Grn and Black wire  female spade connection under the dash)  and is reads .2 volts less than the actual voltage at the battery

[BPT]

Interesting Mrclu.  At first I was just curious since I knew that most people didn't have anything there but that it supposedly had a specific purpose and I couldn't remember what that was.  Then I started wondering if, as long as it's there doing nothing, is it possible to use it for something?  

When you say the plug is pricey, how bad is it?  I found one blue one on MAX for around $5.  Is that it or am I looking at the wrong thing?  And is it safe to assume that this is a BMW specific one and that there isn't an alternative available somewhere?

As far as your lights - what do you have them connected to?  Is this all tied into the stock switches on your bike somehow?  And did you use the factory harness you mentioned or rig up something yourself?

[mrclubike]

The plug is not bad it is the pins that add up
61 13 1 359 289       CABLE SOCKET ROUND FEMALE -    $3.57
I was able to find the pins on Ebay
I think 12.00 for 50 but I was never able to find the connector anywhere else

I made my own harness (Fused and with a relay) plugged into the blue connector but I used the factory switch
The factory switch was very expensive from Max but i got one from MOTO BINS for about 25.00$ I think  
I just looked on max and the factory switch is now $100.00

I used a KOSO volt meter
There is a very nice voltmeter combination USB charger port on ebay that mounts on the handle bars

[BPT]

Thanks for the details!  Those pins are ridiculous and if I am looking at the correct switch it's $99?!?!?!  I found a generic one a while back that almost fits that spot but not exactly because of the "point" there.  I do like the idea of using the correct parts that fit.  I'll have to see if I can stomach the price on Motobins.  Until then, probably my rigged version.

It looks like the plug is 61 13 1 243 674 - CIRCULAR CONNECTOR - BLUE, is that correct?

How many positions are on that switch?  From reading your wiring description above, you have High and Low beam?  Is there an Off position as well?