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Author Topic: Opening a tacho properly ...  (Read 1304 times)

Offline georgesgiralt

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Opening a tacho properly ...
« on: October 13, 2016, 03:52:40 PM »
Hi !
I've to open my tacho because the indicator seems to be cut (I hope it is one wire which is loose).
I'm searching for al the information I can get to remove the glass retaining ring properly in order to properly put it back in place.
Last time I tried this on a speedo, it was a total mess so I ask first...
TIA for your help !

Offline Barry

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Re: Opening a tacho properly ...
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2016, 04:16:32 PM »
To minimise distortion of the bezel it needs support around the edges while the crimp is being bent back. Bore a hole the same size as the bezel in some thin sheet material like 10mm MDF.  It will need to be  a good tight fit so just saying "bore a hole" understates the difficulty of doing it accurately.
Barry Cheshire, England 79 R45

Offline MichaelSydney

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Re: Opening a tacho properly ...
« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2016, 06:35:06 AM »
You would need the correct hole saw, micro-adjustable.


Offline Tony Smith

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Re: Opening a tacho properly ...
« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2016, 09:08:08 PM »
Quote
Michael, I sure wish I had those carbide-tipped, dual-cutting arms when I was scaring the living crap outta myself when, years ago, I was cutting holes in 0.125 sheet aluminum to fit gauges in an aircraft panel. The bigger the hole, the scarier it got. Wobbly it got.

You would have still scared yourself Monte.
what you need is a thing called a ''panel punch".

I can't help myself at auctions and garage sales, a long time ago I bought a set of knock-out punches that look like the photo below in Imperial increments from 1/4" to 6" They have since made holes in cars, boats and aircraft for me to fit meters, gauges and instruments and they do so painlessly.

Any kind of circular cutter into thin metal becomes a "measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with a chainsaw" type deal.

And sorry for the thread drift as this does not solve the OP's problem of how to support his tacho whilst he operates.

For what it is worth, whilst there is a shortage of R65 speedos  on account of them fitting early G/S machines, the same is not true of tachos - in fact there is something of a glut of tachos discarded by the misguided "cafe" builders. i would try for a working 2nd hand unit.
1978 R100RS| 1981 R100RS (JPS) | 1984 R65 | 1992 KLE500 | 2002 R1150GSA |

Offline Tony Smith

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Re: Opening a tacho properly ...
« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2016, 09:11:20 PM »
forgot photo

1978 R100RS| 1981 R100RS (JPS) | 1984 R65 | 1992 KLE500 | 2002 R1150GSA |

Offline wilcom

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Re: Opening a tacho properly ...
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2016, 10:29:39 PM »
Quote
or what it is worth, whilst there is a shortage of R65 speedoson account of them fitting early G/S machines, the same is not true of tachos - in fact there is something of a glut of tachos discarded by the misguided "cafe" builders. i would try for a working 2nd hand unit.  
THIS WAS POSTED JUST DAYS AGO
 georgesgiralt
God Member

France
Gender: male
      
New tachometer from Motobins
10/08/16 at 08:19:41
Hello,
Browsing the Motobins site for a new and not sipping petcock, §i came across a limited offer of R65 tachometer ! Brand new !
Offered at 65 GBP (78 inc VAT) while stock last.
I could not resist and bought one to replace my erratic one.
Joe Wilkerson
Telephone man with a splash of Data
Menifee, CA

Present:
1984 BMW R65LS "Herr Head"
past:
1982 BMW R65LS
1979 R65
1980 R65
1982 R80RT
1974 R90/6
1972 R75
1964 R50/2
19xx R27
ZX-11

Offline georgesgiralt

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Re: Opening a tacho properly ...
« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2016, 03:30:06 AM »
Joe,
I bought one new  tacho from Motobins. The unit was DOA. I send a message to Motobins and they promised me a new one in my mail soon (still waiting)... and told me I can do whatever please me with the dead one.  
I found that the meter is open circuit. I do hope it is a bad solder, so I've to open it to see where the problem lies...

Offline wilcom

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Re: Opening a tacho properly ...
« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2016, 07:19:02 PM »
Quote
No way was I going to pay for a panel punch.

If you know an Electrician almost everyone of those guys has a set in the back of his truck
Joe Wilkerson
Telephone man with a splash of Data
Menifee, CA

Present:
1984 BMW R65LS "Herr Head"
past:
1982 BMW R65LS
1979 R65
1980 R65
1982 R80RT
1974 R90/6
1972 R75
1964 R50/2
19xx R27
ZX-11

Offline georgesgiralt

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Re: Opening a tacho properly ...
« Reply #8 on: October 18, 2016, 04:17:43 PM »
Hello guys,
I received the new tacho from Motobins yesterday. This one works flawlessly.
So Motobins service is fantastic. They replaced the tacho when i showed them it was DOA ! Less than a week including shipping and transit time !
So I decided to open the faulty one. I used a large screwdriver and lot of patience to pry the bezel out.
Dismantling the front of the tacho was a breeze, i used dental floss wire to uplift the needle without distorting it (I managed to damage it on storage, though... )
I measured the coil resistance at the two suspension springs. Infinite. I managed to measure the coil resistance at the other spring ends. Infinite. So I removed the coil and the mobile part  to see what was wrong. It was easy to remove the solder at the coil to free the two coil wires. Still infinite resistance...
So either the coil was cut open at factory or it has been cut open when installed on its support (there is an aluminum wing torn on it to seize it)... As there is no trace of burned enamel the coil did not die from overheating due to a short or something...
IMHO this meter was never tested at the factory and the whole tacho was closed shut without any quality control ... Deutches Qualität....
The meter is damped because the needle axle is sitting on a pot full of some sort of translucent grease Do you have any idea of what it is ? I would be glad  to renew the original tacho the bike left the factory with ...