Progressive fork springs

[Zamp]

I have always noticed that the bike was low in relation to the side stand. Also at above 70 mph a bit un settled. Well I figured it was just the way older bikes are..
After some thought I went and installed some Progressive Springs, with 7 weight oil.  What an improvement on handling, and control.. Well worth the time and money.  So I did a nice ride up today to the local mountains. Bike and rider Happy

[nhmaf]

 [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Looking good!   I also use Progressives and 7 wt oil in my LS.

[marcmiller001]

Is there a DIY instruction for this? I'd like to add this to my "To Do" list.

[montmil]

Is there a DIY instruction for this? I'd like to add this to my "To Do" list.

1. Drain fork oil. Note that the drain bolt on the fork lowers is above the bottom of the bottom of the fork oil reservoir. DO NOT overtighten the small drain bolt. Many ham-fisted owners have stripped the threads in the aluminum fork lowers. Small wrench. Gentle snug using a new crush washer.
2. Remove stanchion caps, depress the aluminum 'plug' enough to tilt the barely visible circlip to a vertical position and withdraw clip and plug. May require assistance of a helper.
3. Remove fork springs. Replace with new. Tighter coil wraps go up.
4. Reassemble and add the smaller fork oil volume listed in your manual; there will be some oil remaining in the lowers.

One question: As a new Airhead owner, why is this on you To Do list? Inquiring minds and all that...

[marcmiller001]

Thanks Montmil - to answer your question - my bike has been sitting a while. I am not sure how old/dry/cracked any seals might be from no use. Everything "seems" ok ...but since I am a new bike owner, it could be a heaping pile of crap and I'd think it was great  

I have heard that doing this update improves the ride and handling - so that is why I would consider it to be on a To Do list - since I doubt I will replace the forks when I modify the bike.
If I am going down the wrong path - please let me know.

[Barry]

My take on fork springs is simple. There would have to be something wrong with the stock springs to want to replace them and for me there isn't.  R65 springs already have a stiffer spring rate than other airheads. They provide the correct levels of laden sag for riders of moderate weight and a good compliant ride.

BMW had to design the forks for riders of average weight so those who are lighter may have not quite enough sag and those who are heavier too much. Stiffer springs may be appropriate for those who have too much sag but pre-loading the springs could be tried first.

[Bob_Roller]

Raul, your front rotors, were they modified OEM rotors done by Spiegler

[montmil]

...my bike has been sitting a while. I am not sure how old/dry/cracked any seals might be from no use. Everything "seems" ok ...

The only actual seals within the fork assembly are the conventional oil seals they reside under the rubber fork caps. When these seals go Tango Uniform, oil begins to leak out during normal ops. Lift the caps and check for fork oil puddles. If they are really bad, fork oil will work past the caps and often dribble down the fork lowers.

If you have not yet drained and replaced the fork oil and the seals are still, well, sealing, change out the juice and see how the forks are functioning.

Some folks like the Progressive springs while others find them to be less than they are cracked up to be. Rider weight seems to come into play. For those of us in the Lightweight class, the best install position for these uber stiff springs in vertical in the trash bucket. YMMV

[Barry]

Those of us in the Lightweight class, the best install position for these uber stiff springs in vertical in the trash bucket. YMMV

That's what I was trying to say in a round about way. Monte said it more succinctly.

[marcmiller001]

These comments are really helpful. Thank you guys. I will start with changing out the oil since that may not have been done in a long time and enjoy riding until the weather changes.