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Author Topic: Rear Shock Replacement Question  (Read 1806 times)

Offline BPT

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Rear Shock Replacement Question
« on: August 31, 2016, 12:00:56 PM »
I recently ordered and received a set of Hagon shocks for both the bike and the sidecar.  While I can't comment on the shocks themselves yet, I would like to say that dealing with Dave Quinn was a very good experience.  He was extremely knowledgeable and thorough but absolutely patient in dealing with my questions and giving advice.  He was also honest in letting me know when he didn't know enough about something (that was with some sidecar things but, truly, even then he was more knowledgeable than I was) and again when telling me that a competitors product would be better for my application (in my case the front springs).  He is a bit of a fast talker.  I don't mean in a pushy, sales guy way.  He just talks really fast.  Maybe it's a geographic thing?  So I had to really try to keep up. But overall dealing with Mr. Quinn was a good experience.  Let's hope that the shocks are the same.

I have the Clymer manual and the removal/install seems pretty straightforward.  Take them off, put the new ones on.  Would anyone have any advice here?  Or is it that easy?  Anything to make it easier? And how about the torque values?  I've read in the forums that you can't always trust the torque shown in Clymer's and Haynes.

                                   Thanks
1983 R65 w/ Velorex 562 Sidecar

Offline Kookaburra

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Re: Rear Shock Replacement Question
« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2016, 11:18:37 PM »
Yes, it is as easy as removing the old shocks and replacing.  Don't know about Hagons but you may need spacers which should come with the new shocks. Yes  there are  some issues with some of the foot pound torque values in the Clymer/Haynes manuals. Airhead guru Snowbum has an extensive article up on the web on this topic. His torque specification for rear shock absorber mounting bolts is 25 ft lbs which is what I have tried to achieve with my replacement Ikon shocks.

Offline BPT

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Re: Rear Shock Replacement Question
« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2016, 12:35:36 AM »
Glad to hear that it's as easy as the book says.  It seems like anytime I don't ask, later I'll hear "Oh, you could've saved a lot of time if you would have XXXXX".  So I figured I'd check, just in case.

Odd about the torque - unless I am missing something, my manual doesn't have it listed at all.  For the R65 it only goes to 1980.  And for the years it does list, it shows different amounts for each side (higher for the right?).   Have you heard of that?  I'll have to check Snowbum's site and see if he mentions it.

Thanks for the reply.
1983 R65 w/ Velorex 562 Sidecar

Offline Tony Smith

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Re: Rear Shock Replacement Question
« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2016, 01:07:40 AM »
Quote
Odd about the torque - unless I am missing something, my manual doesn't have it listed at all.  For the R65 it only goes to 1980.  And for the years it does list, it shows different amounts for each side (higher for the right?).   Have you heard of that?  I'll have to check Snowbum's site and see if he mentions it.

Ah.....The problem is translation from the original, slightly corrupted Romanian, that was then translated into Hungarian for the benefit of the guest workers in the BMW factory.

Finally the resultant word porridge was translated to German and lastly into English.


For all bolting of 10mm and above the simple German torque figure of  "Gutandtight" will suffice.

The English is less precise, measuring between one half and one full "grunt".

The Australian edition contains the additional incantation "Fu$k You" for those occasion when the shifting spanner you were using instead of the approved single hex box spanner (made by Heyco or Stahle Willie of course) slips off the nut or bolt in question resulting in loss of the outer dermal layer of one or more knuckles.


1978 R100RS| 1981 R100RS (JPS) | 1984 R65 | 1992 KLE500 | 2002 R1150GSA |

Offline georgesgiralt

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Re: Rear Shock Replacement Question
« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2016, 02:59:38 AM »
Yes, the torque should be different left and right !
This is because, OEM left bolts are fine thread and right side are normal thread.
I do not know why there is fine thread on the left, but if your bolts are OEM you may see the difference.
These are NLA...

Offline BPT

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Re: Rear Shock Replacement Question
« Reply #5 on: September 01, 2016, 10:15:49 AM »
Dammit Tony Smith, that was funny.  And it also made sense!    ;D

Georgesgiralt - Interesting.  I'll pay attention for that when I get around to replacing these.  So it makes sense why the torques might be different, just not sure why they left my year out in the manual.  I guess I can go a half grunt on one side and a full grunt on the other?
1983 R65 w/ Velorex 562 Sidecar

Offline montmil

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Re: Rear Shock Replacement Question
« Reply #6 on: September 01, 2016, 10:28:22 AM »
Quote
I recently ordered and received a set of Hagon shocks ... I would like to say that dealing with Dave Quinn was a very good experience.

Dave has handled the correct Hagon rear shock setup on two of my Airheads. His questions regarding my ATGATT ready-to-ride weight plus mostly solo or with pillion, got me the best spring application for rear shocks.

Yep, Dave Quinn is a Northerner. They usually talk faster than a New York Minute. Us Texicans can turn a one-syllable word into at least two syllables cuz the heat makes us do everything s-l-o-w-e-r. Still, Dave's a good guy operating out of a one-man bidnez.
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

Offline Barry

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Re: Rear Shock Replacement Question
« Reply #7 on: September 01, 2016, 11:46:40 AM »
Quote
Odd about the torque - unless I am missing something, my manual doesn't have it listed at all.For the R65 it only goes to 1980.And for the years it does list, it shows different amounts for each side (higher for the right?).

As Georges said it's because of the thread pitch but on mine which I'm sure are original it's only the lower left that is M10 fine.  The others 3 are normal M10.

The reason it's only the lower left is self evident when you look at the nut which is a non-standard slim nut.  My best guess would be they used a slim nut to provide extra clearance for rear wheel removal and were concerned about the number of full thread turns on the nut hence the fine thread.
« Last Edit: September 01, 2016, 11:52:23 AM by bhodgson »
Barry Cheshire, England 79 R45

Offline BPT

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Re: Rear Shock Replacement Question
« Reply #8 on: September 01, 2016, 02:08:23 PM »
Thanks for the explanation, Barry.  That makes sense, both why they did it that way and also why the torque values would be different.

So what it the consensus on the torque then - 25 for all of them as Snowbum says?  Or is it necessary to use different for each side?  For my'83, would it be the same as what's listed in the manual for '80?
1983 R65 w/ Velorex 562 Sidecar

Offline Barry

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Re: Rear Shock Replacement Question
« Reply #9 on: September 02, 2016, 02:50:01 AM »
Assuming the bolts are 8.8 spec then 25lbft is so far within the maximum values in engineering  tables that the small difference between coarse and fine threads isn't worth worrying about so I'd happily use 25.  

BMW seemed to be very conservative with torque values for fixings on the frame where  structural safety was at stake. You'll also find much lower than expected torque values on the sub frame bolts which to me has always been a puzzle as it flys in the face of normal engineering practice for joints in shear.

« Last Edit: September 02, 2016, 02:53:42 AM by bhodgson »
Barry Cheshire, England 79 R45

Offline BPT

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Re: Rear Shock Replacement Question
« Reply #10 on: September 02, 2016, 08:43:52 PM »
So 25lbft it is then.   Thanks for the replies.
1983 R65 w/ Velorex 562 Sidecar