The member photo gallery is now integrated and live!!  All user albums and pictures have been ported from old gallery.


To register send an e-mail to admin@bmwr65.org and provide your location and desired user name.

Author Topic: Idle problem  (Read 2679 times)

Offline montmil

  • Mt. Olympus Resident
  • ****
  • Posts: 8371
Re: Idle problem
« Reply #15 on: June 17, 2016, 11:27:37 AM »
Something to consider when setting idle RPMs:

The cam chain and sprockets receive the necessary oiling in a rather crude design. A short bit of tubing is aimed in the general direction of the tension-guide side of the cam chain.

At too low revs -and I consider below 1100rpm for my three Airheads- the "oil spitter pipe" becomes an oil dribbler pipe. Minimal oil reaches the bearing, sprockets and chain. For frequent urban stop & go traffic, accelerated wear of these PITA to replace parts is a real possibility.
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

Offline JJH

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 69
Re: Idle problem
« Reply #16 on: June 17, 2016, 12:55:40 PM »
As I commute on my bike through town, I really appreciate the advice on idle speed.  Also I did set my idle so it does not stall at stop light, but I still have the higher idle when the engine is warm.  I guess my next step is to try the "spray and pray" on the advance unit.  Thanks,  John

jonathanrowley

  • Guest
Re: Idle problem
« Reply #17 on: June 18, 2016, 04:01:43 AM »
Quote
when coming to a stop the idle will be 2000 rpm.

Have you checked that the Cables to the Carbs are free and you have a little slack at the Carbs - could be Cables sticking.

Failing that, maybe some dirt or crap in the Idle jet - you'd need to take off bottoms of carbs - check for crud, clean and put back on.

Beyond that - mechanical advance in Bean Can sticking.
Bean Can - PITA IMHO.
I've just binned mine and replaced with a Siemens electronic unit - Bike is much better behaved.

Offline montmil

  • Mt. Olympus Resident
  • ****
  • Posts: 8371
Re: Idle problem
« Reply #18 on: June 18, 2016, 08:20:52 AM »
The idle air adjust screw -which is outside of the float bowl- controls, well, your idle rpm. With the engine fully warmed, turn the screws -no more than a small screwdriver's blade width- one way or the other. You'll likely notice an immediate change in revs. You might then need to tweak the topside idle stop screws.

I'll first use a pencil to mark the carb body as to the original position of the jet's blade slot. Working upside down, I'm even more easily confused!
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

Offline JJH

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 69
Re: Idle problem
« Reply #19 on: July 19, 2016, 09:45:21 AM »
Update... I fixed the problem!!!!  There was an airleak/ vacuum leak,  I sprayed solvent around the airtubes and no change in RPM.  I then started to perform the tune up.  I removed the front plate and happened to look at the bottom of the carburetor and noticed the vacuum take off screw is missing.  A quick trip to get a screw didn't work (smallish town 3.5 mm not too common), but the auto parts store had rubber caps.  No more problems with high idle!!!  Now onto that timing issue...