Damaged LS front wheel

[marcmax]

I was given an LS front wheel by someone who replaced it after getting a big ding in the edge. I want to use it on my sidecar so all the wheels match.

Has anyone tried (successfully or unsuccessfully) to straighten a damaged alloy wheel?

I put it on a trueing stand and it rolls straight, no side to side wobble. There is also no rise and fall indicating an out of round condition. Just a lip that is bent out of shape.

I measured everything and the wheel is still round. The wheel measures 73mm edge to edge except in the damaged area. Where it is bent measures 76mm and tapers from 73mm to 76mm and back to 73mm along an area 150mm in length.

My plan was to make a wooden form of the wheel profile from a good area and use a ratcheting tie down strap to secure it in the damaged area. Then heat the bend with a heat gun first and use body panel and rubber hammers to bang it back in shape.

Any comments or suggestions? I have never attempted anything like this before and if it was going on the front of the bike I probably wouldn't try it now. Since it is going on the sidecar a slight imperfection should be tolerable.

[Bob_Roller]

I have seen wheel straightening companies at various auto dealerships in my area .
I talked to one that was at a BMW dealership back in November and he said, as long as the metal isn't cracked, they can fix just about anything .
These companies work out of a trailer and do repairs onsite .
You could contact local auto dealer service departments in the Jacksonville area and see if they utilize this service .

[Barry]

My plan was to make a wooden form of the wheel profile from a good area and use a ratcheting tie down strap to secure it in the damaged area. Then heat the bend with a heat gun first and use body panel and rubber hammers to bang it back in shape.
 

I've never straightened an alloy wheel but it sounds like a good plan. What temperature were you thinking of. My best guess would be not to exceed 200 Deg C.

[marcmax]

Just planning on whatever temp my hand held heat gun will get it to. I know I can blacken a piece of wood with it if I hold it in place long enough. I thought if I keep the heat gun moving and just get it hot enough to keep the alloy from cracking when I start the bending I can probably get it close.

I check the local wheel repair shops and none will touch a motorcycle wheel. Too much liability if there is an after fix failure. Best price I found from a specialized motorcycle wheel repair shop was $285 plus shipping both ways ($50-60). I can buy a used wheel from Re-Pscycled Parts for $250.

This was free so I am not out much if it doesn't work. The Metzeler sidecar tires require a tube so I don't have to worry about it holding air tubeless. And if I put too many hammer marks I will just put that side in on the sidecar so it isn't seen.

[marcmax]

There are businesses that repair alloy rims but none of them within 100 miles will touch a motorcycle rim, much less a 30+ year old one. Nearest ones willing to try are in Miami (300 miles away) $25 shipping each way and $50 to "evaluate" whether it is fixeable before an estimate and Atlanta (350 miles) and a flat $285 whether it is a small ding or completely collapsed.

[nhmaf]

There are places that will repair/straighten motorcycle wheels.  I wouldn't try to heat it & bang it back - the LS wheels actually are made of 2 types of alloy (spokes are softer/bendier) and the rim is harder/stiffer.   The wheel repair places can handle it though.

These guys used to be in New Hampshire, but I see that they've now moved/relocated to Aridzona.....
They do handle motorcycle wheels easily, though
http://www.mcwheel.com/

[marcmax]

Well, going against all the good advice I received I tried to straighten this wheel myself. I have always been a cheapskate and decided since the wheel was free and a good used wheel was about the same as a repair, if I ruined it I could always just buy a used wheel.

I built a wooden jig to hold the wheel in place and careful used the heat gun to heat the damaged area. Working slowly (approx an hour) with a lead shot filled hammer I heated, hammered and measured. I kept repeating the process until I brought the rim width from 76mm at the dent back to 73mm like the rest of the wheel. Measurements across the diameter of the wheel show 487mm in undamaged areas and 486mm in the center of the damaged areas. I did leave a few hammer marks when I first tried a hard faced auto body hammer before switching to the soft faced lead filled one. I think a little hand grinder and some emory cloth will clean it up before having it powder coated to match the other wheels.

[nhmaf]

Looks like you didn't make out too badly with it!   Possibly any remaining imperfection won't be noticeable at any speed you're likely to achieve with a sidecar rig, too!

[marcmax]

I just got lucky. The LS wheel design is really strong and the only part that was damaged was the lip on one side. The actual structure of the wheel was undamaged. All I had to do was massage the lip back into shape. If the wheel had been out of round by even a mm or 2 there is no way I could have muscled it back into shape. Even so, this is now a tube tire only rim. There is no way I would attempt a tubeless tire on this wheel.

[Tony Smith]

Has anyone tried (successfully or unsuccessfully) to straighten a damaged alloy wheel?


My plan was to make a wooden form of the wheel profile from a good area and use a ratcheting tie down strap to secure it in the damaged area. Then heat the bend with a heat gun first and use body panel and rubber hammers to bang it back in shape.

 

I didn't bother with heat, just blocks of timber and a 5lb dead-blow hammer, took a flat spot out of my back wheel - I have marked the area and am monitoring it to see if cracks develop, but I doubt they will.

[marcmax]

Back from powdercoater and ready to get new bearings, tire and mounted.

[nhmaf]

I was going to ask if you had worked out a method to fit a disc brake rotor on it for the sidecar...

[marcmax]

I have a spare set of LS rotors but haven't tried one yet to see if there is enough clearance with the sidecar swingarm. I may have to go with a standard R65 rotor as the carrier has less dish to it. I picked up a mechanical caliper from an Arctic Cat that should work for the stopping power once I fab a mounting bracket. Planning on tying the actuator cable in with the rear drum brake rod.

[motoleo]

What make/model sidecar are you attaching to your R65LS?

[nhmaf]

Actually, he is now taking it OFF !