Electrical/ignition problem?

[redzap]

Hi guys/gals.  I'm a first time user and could use some help with a diagnosis.  I have a 1983 R65 with about 16k miles on it.  I'm riding along and it cuts out and won't restart.  The petcock was open and there was gas in the carbs (no hesitation before it cut out), all the lights and kill switch are working, the battery is charged and new, and it turns over, but won't start.  I have checked the continuity of the coil and it reads acording to spec.  I have put some fresh heat sink paste on the ICU (I think its called).  The connections of the wires look good and no fuses are broken.

Any help would be appreciated!

[Bob_Roller]

Welcome Redzap, first you have to determine if the problem is fuel, ignition, or engine problem ( valve problem, compression, etc.) . Not knowing what kind of maintenance has been done on the bike, we'll have to start with basics.  I would check the ignition system for a good blue spark, if you have the original gray ignition coil, it is a suspect part, even if it check's out good with a multi-meter. They are commonly referred to as the crack-o-matic coil for their habit of having the plastic case crack. After that , it's checking for loose, broken wires, broken switches, corroded connections. Not a fun job, a lot of have us been there. I hope you're a little familiar with using a multi-meter, this problem is going to require you to check continuity of wires, and check for voltage at connections. Where on the planet do you call home? One of us may be in proximity to you.

[redzap]

Thanks for the reply.  I hail from Helena, Montana, so if any of you are nearby, let me know.  I'll be at the Beartooth Rendezvous rally this weekend so I will definitely be picking some brains.  (I'll be riding my other beemer!)

Anyway, I know the bike has had regular maintenance and wonder what could be wrong with the engine for a bike of this low of mileage.  I did take the coil off and inspect it and did not see any cracks.  The connections appear clean but I will recheck things with a multimeter.  

Also, I read on an old post to check the beancan/hall sensor.  What and where is the beancan?  Sorry for my ignorance.  Thanks...

[Bob_Roller]

The 'bean can" is under the front engine cover. It's possible that it is bad, but the failure rates of this component is quite low.

[redzap]

Thanks Bob,  What is the bean can's technical name and what does it do?

[Bob_Roller]

I don't know of an official term, it normally goes by the name the Hall Effect sensor, or ignition sensor. It contains the centrifugal spark advance mechanism, and a solid state 'Hall Effect' transistor, that converts a magnetic signal to an electric signal that the ICU uses to send an electrical pulse to the ignition coil. In quite simple terms of course.

[Ed Miller]

It's just called the ignition sensor, but it also contains the centrifugal advance unit.  

I just browsed Snowbum's web site, sure he would have a trouble shooting article for the ignition system.  I can't find one.  Does anybody know where there is one?  A nice, simple, step by step sequence and process of elimination?  Just for Airheads?  

I can't write one, but I'm sure it includes confirming power to the coil, stuff like that.

[MrRiden]

Found some info for ya here: http://www.thunderchild-design.com/info.html#can    but I'm still looking for a nice easy simple step by step I remember seeing somewhere on the interwebs.
rich

[Bob_Roller]

Rich, that's the kind of information that needs to be entered into the new technical section : Technical FAQ / Procedures.

[MrRiden]

Today is getting a bit busy but heres more that someone who's bored may want to condense for the tech section. http://www.deathstar.org/~flash/ig_trig.html
http://www.roadkill.com/~davet/moto/timeCanister.html
http://www.geocities.com/fwarner_au/mc_things/bmwr_ign_sensor.html
rich

[dewjantim]

For some reason the coils go bad on these bikes quite frequently, especially on bikes not ridden much. Before I bought my bike the coil went out at 5000 miles. It tested OK, but was bad. Bike ran fine after replacement. You might as well get one , as you will probably need it sooner or later......Dew.

[Justin B.]

Rob Frankham has some good info on this ignition on his site at:

http://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/robpages1/Pages/vane_switch_tester.htm

[redzap]

Sorry I've been out of touch; I appreciate all your feedback.  I tested the "beancan" and it does not appear defective.  So, it seems the problem lies with the ECU or coil (even though it tested out okay on the multimeter).  Is there a test I can do on the ECU to rule that out before I order a new coil?

[Ed Miller]

Sorry I've been out of touch; I appreciate all your feedback.  I tested the "beancan" and it does not appear defective.  So, it seems the problem lies with the ECU or coil (even though it tested out okay on the multimeter).  Is there a test I can do on the ECU to rule that out before I order a new coil?

 Rocky Point Cycle sells an ICU for about 35 bucks; that's much cheaper than replacing a coil.  I think there are other sources of inexpensive ICUs, but I got mine from Stan.  I've been down that road tracing my weird intermittent problem.

Are you getting spark to the plugs?  Ground them really well and spin the motor with the starter.

[redzap]

Thanks, Ed.  I've taken each plug out separately, placed it back in the plug wire and held the end on top of the cylinder head fin while cranking over the engine with no spark in either plug.  So...what does this tell me?  ICU or coil problem?