More transmission woes?

[Matt Chapter]

Managed to get a chance to ride my R65 yesterday and today.  Leaving the work parking lot, while letting the clutch out in first gear I felt the transmission almost pop out of gear and lurch.  Normally I'm a smooth operator but I figured I had muffed it.

Then this morning a couple times while accelerating after the clutch was fully engaged I felt the same thing.  I'm pretty sure it was only in first gear.  I've also had some trouble with false neutrals when shifting into first at a standstill.

I'm wondering what the cause is, and since I had the transmission rebuilt only a few thousand miles ago I'm naturally suspicious.  Is there any chance this is clutch related or is it more likely to be the transmission again?

[Bob_Roller]

Do you have an adjustable linkage between the trasnsmission and  shift pedal

Try adjusting the footpeg on that side, it's got serrations to adjust it to what suits you .

[SoloLobo]

Start by re-adjusting the free-play on the  clutch cable using the BMW manual method.

Next check the smooth operation of the shifter adjustable linkage

Next you may need a spline lube

Another issue can be the damper on the driveshaft hanging up and clunking  (If the R65 driveshaft damper is like the one on my R80G/S that was causing a clunk)

Check the "clunk" section of this page:

http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/r100tic.html

[mrclubike]

Make sure your clutch release fork is not hitting the center stand when it is in the up position  

[Luca]

Id first check for slop in the shift linkage to make sure you are getting a "full throw."  Wear at the lever pivot and in the crappy "paper clip" linkage will reduce how much lever input makes it to the transmission.  If that's reasonably tight, you could try a technique...

Haven't had to do this in first, but I've found it helpful for not hitting a false neutral between 4th and 5th: Pull the clutch, put the bike in gear and continue to hold on the shift lever.  Do not release pressure on the shift lever until after you have let the clutch back out.

When shifting from 4th to 5th (especially when pulling hard) I can sometimes feel the shift lever move an extra notch as I let the clutch out.  That's the 2nd step of the dogs engaging.  If you don't get the dogs fully engaged they can pop out under a load.

[Bob_Roller]

Have you changed boots. footwear
I had a pair of boots, that I could shift my oilhead with no problems, but the R65, couldn't shift correctly to save my life !!!!

[Matt Chapter]

Well, first step I figured I'd adjust the clutch free play.  I've got 2.1 mm at the lever as seen here, but does the adjuster seem pretty far "adjusted"?



I wonder if I have two separate problems, i.e. the slipping during acceleration is a spline lube, and the false neutrals are a worn clutch.

And good thought Bob, but I've used the same boot make for the past 16 years.  Only on my fourth pair.

[Bob_Roller]

That does seem to be more than I've got on my R65's .

Did you do the adjustment at the transmission first, before you made this adjustment at the clutch lever

[Matt Chapter]

The Clymer bible seemed to indicate only one adjustment.  I do think that the exposed cable is too long at the transmission.

[Bob_Roller]

The adjustment at the transmission, is done with the adjuster bolt that goes into the rubber boot at the backside of the transmission .

I don't remember the proper method of adjustment, but when you're done, the arm the cable attaches to, should be about 90 degrees to the transmission .

What you're doing, is assuring that there is a few millimeters of cable / arm movement, before you start to activate the clutch .  

[nhmaf]

It might also be that presses in on the pushrod/throwout piston assembly has backed out..
I think that the 'magic' number for expose cable at the from the transmission boss to the clutch lever arm is 201mm..

[Barry]

Dimension 'C' is 201mm. You set that with the handle bar adjuster and then set the handlebar clutch lever free play with the adjuster at '4'  This is not remotely intuitive but it is the correct way to do it.

When set using this method the operating lever at the back of the gearbox will be parallel with the gearbox end cover when the handlebar lever is at half travel.

[Matt Chapter]

I went back and reread the procedure, and re performed the adjustment.  I like where it is now, at 7 15/16" (201.613 mm, as if i could be that accurate).

The shifting feels better, less false neutrals and more positive shifting.  However it still slips when accelerating, after the clutch is out.  I'm going to investigate the spline lube.

[mrclubike]

Make sure your clutch release fork is not hitting the center stand when it is in the up position
It will cause the fork to be held in and not allow the clutch to fully apply pressure to the clutch plate.
This happened to me  

[Matt Chapter]

Make sure your clutch release fork is not hitting the center stand when it is in the up position

Do you happen to have a picture of this?