Please help! 1984 R65 VIN number question

[Tony Smith]

I was told the 7 digit VIN was not valid any longer when the CA DMV updated their computer system sometime in the early 2000's.  The matching 7 digit VIN numbers that were clearly stamped on the gusset and engine case are now the chassis number according the brainiacs at the DMV.   ...

Don't want to add to your pain Mike but the rest of the world thinks it is a frame number too.

Your DMV's mistake was ab-initio in taking the frame number to be a VIN number, which it never was.


On the little alloy data plate on my bike and Dee's, the 7 digit number muist match the frame number so that any Gummit Idjit examining the bike can verify that the frame they are looking at was the one issued an import permit and that, at least once upon a time ( the start of a Gummnit fairy story) the rest of the machine complied with whatever specific "design rules" were required (in the case of BMW that meant that the optional in most other countries rear mudflap was fitted, that the headlight could be turned off independent of ignition (at that time the exact opposite of what was required in the US), that there were asbestos products present (I don't think there ever where on BMs anyway) and that the headlight had a "left dip".

[Tony Smith]

Typo - NO Asbestos present!

[Mike V]

Your DMV's mistake was ab-initio in taking the frame number to be a VIN number, which it never was.

Tony,

The problems were numerous. Since my registration expired, and my EPA frame sticker was missing, and the 7-digit VIN number on the pink slip, bill of sale, Insurance card, expired registration, engine, and gusset returned an alarm and error code (since it didn't meet the 17 digit dialogue box on their computer input screen) in their new system they tried to grade the bike as a recovery vehicle.  It's a long ridiculous story that required 3 different DMV inspections - subsequently the 3 different DMV inspectors had 3 different opinions and rulings.  Fast forward 4 weeks after my  last inspection a Policeman friend of mine told me to take the bike to a CHP Inspection Station with all the paperwork.  The CHP inspector knew what he was looking at and looking for - declared and cleared the entire process.

I'm not making this up.  Keep your registration current.  Didn't intend to hi-jack the thread.

[wilcom]

Put some pics up of the 84/79 Beemer......... got any other signs of a 79, like a round M/C?

[DeeSupertramp]

I've attached a few photos. Not sure what differentiate a 1979 of a 1984 in terms of design.

[wilcom]

Not sure what differentiate a 1979 of a 1984 in terms of design.  

 I believe the round M/C and flat top carbs are 79/80 specific. Looks like you have  1979, just like the tag say's

[donbmw]

The four things that tell me you have a 1979 are the built date, round front master cylinder, seat tail piece and the final drive housing. All these were used through 1980 maybe even 1981. I know on 1982 and on we're not the same. The 17 digit vin started here in the states in 1981.

Don

[Bob_Roller]

The '81 model year bikes had the rectangular master cylinder reservoir, different tail piece and ribbed final drive case .

Also, don't leave your fuel tap on, in the pictures, it's in the reserve position .

[Tony Smith]

Also interesting is the absence of an LED in the Tacho which indicates a later replacement.

[nhmaf]

As the engine number doesn't match the frame number, that also indicates a likely replacement.  The engine number indicates an 11/1980 production date (1981 model year), so I think it could be that somewhere in the bike's history, it could have had an engine and tacho transplant with the original 3/1979 production frame.

Definitely not a 1984 model, anyhow, though many, many parts are swappable/interchangeable.

[Mike V]

I don't believe the 81-84 model engines had clam shell intake covers.

[DeeSupertramp]

Thanks all for your help. Maybe the fact that it is a 1979 and tried to register it as a 1984 was part of the issue I had. I will try to call back Vicroads and sort this out. Hopefully it will be a positive outcome.

Bob_roller:  sorry, as I mentioned this is my first bike and I'm not knowledgeable, what is the issue with the fuel tap and what is the reserve position? All I know is that I have not been able to open it, it just turn 360 degrees without popping so I can't put fuel. Not sure what I'm doing wrong and my girlfriend is taking a piss at me!!

[Barry]

For the fuel tap horizontal forward or backwards is off, vertically down is on and vertically up is reserve (reserve capacity 2 litres).  Bob will have mentioned it because to prevent possible flooding you should never park up with the fuel tap in the on or reserve position.

There is a long list of detail differences between the early 79-80 models and the later 81 -84 models which make the year of manufacture easy to determine and as has been said yours has all of the 79 features in the pictures. 

Some of the more visually obvious ones are:    

(79 feature listed first)

Seat cover ribbed vs plain
Tail piece lifts with the seat or is fixed
Clam shell vs flat air filter housing
Enricher lever mounted on the airfilter housing vs handle bars
Flatop vs dome top Bings
Plain vs ribbed final drive housing
Round vs rectangular brake fluid reservoir

Occasionally you see 1980 models with a partial mix of these features but a 79 model should be quite distinctly in the early camp and as far as I know 81 and later models will be distinctly in the later camp.

[donbmw]

Bob_roller:  sorry, as I mentioned this is my first bike and I'm not knowledgeable, what is the issue with the fuel tap and what is the reserve position? All I know is that I have not been able to open it, it just turn 360 degrees without popping so I can't put fuel. Not sure what I'm doing wrong and my girlfriend is taking a piss at me!! [/quote]

Fuel tap or fuel valve on the bottom LH side of tank. When lever is pointed up to tank this is reserve. Pointed down is on, pointed to either side is fuel off. You should fill a slight dent in each position when valve is rotated. The fuel tap has nothing to do with fuel being put in the tank. Sound like your for cap is Locked or has been tightened to much and the ratchet will not grab any more to get the cap off. These cap just need to be sung. The is a method for drilling a hole in the cap to put a screw in to make all the parts turn at the same time. Doing a search hear should bring this up or some will post the link. Will look when I have some more time.

Don

[Bob_Roller]

If the fuel tap is left on and the carb float needles don't seat very well , you can drain the fuel tank into the cylinders and oil sump, if given enough time .

A few members here have had this happen .

Always turn the fuel tap off and avoid letting the bike sit on the side stand for extended periods of time .