Timing chain removal/installation

[montmil]

You've done well, Grasshopper.

The chain guide should be positioned parallel to and just touching the chain. Snug up the bolts guttentight.

If the threaded stud into the cylinder head is gerfunken and you can not double-nut it for removal, clamp on your ViceGrips and unscrew it. You could make your own new stud using a matching thread metric bolt with enough threads to match the old one. A drip of red LocTite on the end that goes into the head is OK. Note the threaded hole in the head goes clear through and can often be screwed in so far that the end is visible when looking straight down on the head. Leaves very little purchase for the top nut... hence the LocTite.

The domed, threaded center nut is a BMW item, so visit your stealership. I'm amazed by its $ dollar value to BMW Motorrad. Be advised that the two nuts on the fore n' aft ends of the rocker box do much of the gasket sealing work. That chrome-domed devil does not need to be torqued to forearm vein popping pressure. Snug is 'bout right.

Did you install a new spring behind the chain tensioner piston? Always a good idea.

Last note: Do you have one or two Airhead shop manuals? I ask because the full prep and procedure for removal and refit of timing chains is right there.
We live and learn, although some experiences can derail the learning process. [smiley=drowning.gif] Beer helps.

[jamestnewsonr65]

I am happy that the thing is back together now and appears to work, albeit without starting the engine yet!

I have the clymer and haynes manuals and find the clymer to be much more help. I followed the procedure for the timing chain but couldn't see where it mentions the chain guard install.

I did change the spring behind the tensioner also as it came as part of the set from motobins. I have to say the bits I took off looked hardly if not any worn at all, but all have been changed anyway.

I will look into the creating a new stud, but I might just buy the replacement from motobins.


I owe a huge thanks to the forum for helping me understand this a little more.

[jamestnewsonr65]

Thought I would just conclude this post from a while back.

I've finally got the bits back from the powder coaters after a 7 week wait for some reason and happy to report that the help with making sure the engine was back at TDC really did work and I've achieved something else I didn't know about.

Also set the timing with a strobe light this evening and it seems to have helped as the engine before timing was having trouble idling correctly, but adjusting the timing smoothed it out and seems happy at 800/900rpm now.

One thing I did find with the timing light was that it was very hard to really see the 'S' mark as it was a little dirty, but if it is running ok then it cant be too bad for the old thing.

Here's a pic of it all back together with the freshly powder coated parts at the front, as I know everyone loves pics.

[montmil]

When you're looking for a simple, easy chore to attend to, remove the flywhell timing plug. Bring the flywheel to where the timing marks are visible. Use a carb cleaner-soaked Q-tip and swab clean all the stamped marks.

Using another Q-Tip, dab some white paint into the indentations. Neatness not an issue just now.

Let dry. Next, use a scrap of old t-shirt and a short popsicle stick with the end squared off. Dampen lightly with the carb cleaner and wipe away the excess paint, leaving white paint in the stamped letters.

Next time you do a timing check, those letters will 'pop' for you.

[jamestnewsonr65]

Great tip, thanks for your help and pointers in getting me back on the road.