Magura 16 master cylinder rebuild?

[lebicicletta]

Hi folks,

With the dual ATE calipers and pistons cleaned up, and awaiting rebuild kits, time to dig in to the Master Cylinder.  Removed it, stamped Margura 16 at the bottom (see pix)
I'm having difficulty finding a rebuild kit on the web - advice? The 14,'s and 15's are plentiful, and I'd hate to have to buy a new one.....
Can I retrofit a different (though maybe Margura?) M/C?
Advice appreciated as always.

[Mike V]

Lon,

Did you receive the Caliper O-Rings I sent?

I may have a newly rebuilt MC in my parts bin.  I'll check and get back to you if you're interested.

-Mike V. / San Diego

[Bob_Roller]

If you were going to order any parts from Motobins, they have a rebuild kit for 16 mm master cylinders .

[Tony Smith]

If you were going to order any parts from Motobins, they have a rebuild kit for 16 mm master cylinders .

To be honest, in view of the yellowing I'd get a new reservoir and "O" ring too,  GBP10.50 and GBP1.70 respectively. I thought I would get away with re-using mine as if has been stored out of the sun for 20 years, but the merest carelessness screwing down the lid and the blasted thing cracked.

My view is that if age has made it that flimsy, replace it now when it is easy and relatively convenient rather than otherwise.

[Luca]

FYI, On max BMW they show the 15mm MC as standard after 9/81 and don't list the 16mm rebuild parts, just the whole 16mm MC assembly...  also, some stuff is shown under the brake fiche while other stuff is under steering.

If the MC bore is bad, it's probably just worth it to go to a 15mm MC.  That will give you a little more mechanical advantage on the brakes, although it will also increase lever travel.  Not a problem unless the lever can be squeezed all the way back to the grip.  Max BMW's prices are every bit as good as motobins on the master cylinder assembly.

If the MC bore is good, all you need is the rebuild kit.  

Truth be told, you might not even need that.  My MC has all original parts.  I did lightly hone the MC bore to minimize pitting and cleaned the piston/seals... but nothing in there has been replaced and when I got the bike the front brakes were stuck on and the MC piston was not moving and the whole thing had been sitting at least 10 years.  Of course, tinkering with brake parts instead of replacing them is reckless and should be done at your own risk  

[Tony Smith]

If the MC bore is bad, it's probably just worth it to go to a 15mm MC.  That will give you a little more mechanical advantage on the brakes, although it will also increase lever travel.  Not a problem unless the lever can be squeezed all the way back to the grip.  Max BMW's prices are every bit as good as motobins on the master cylinder assembly.

If the MC bore is good, all you need is the rebuild kit.  

And it isn't, a stainless steel sleeve is the way to go. You could even put a 15mm sleeve in if it is easier to get 15mm rebuild kits.

Having a master cylinder sleeved, even if you cannot do it yourself, is going to cost a lot less than a new master cylinder.

Occasionally you will read nonsense about re-sleeved m,aster cylinders leaking past the sleeve - if that happens take it back to the machinist, they stuffed up.

I suppose it may have happened once, but very unlikely given that a decent machinist will set up a light interference fit between the bored out master cylinder and the sleeve being pressed into it.

A custom made sleeve should cost no more than $100 with the new seal kit installed for you.