Oil Leaks...

[Barry]

Anybody use thread sealer with this or just au naturale..

Sealant or tape should only be used on tapered threads. This is a parallel thread so sealant probably wouldn't work without the crush washer.

[Bob_Roller]

Usually, the switches don't leak from the threaded area, it's through the switch, where we have issues with them .

Haven't had one leak from the threads, but everyone has leaked through the switch, eventually .

I've got a switch from Motobins, the Italian manufactured one, that's going in the next time I replace one .

[nhmaf]

While you could potentially use a little bit of sealer on the switch, I never have.   They do/should come with a crush washer, and you just have to snug them up a little bit more than finger tight.  Just make sure the engine case surface is very clean before you screw in the replacement

It has also been my experience that these switches usually leak through the plastic body - quite often soon after I've smacked the wire terminals where the wires plug on.

[montmil]

... It has also been my experience that these switches usually leak through the plastic body - quite often soon after I've smacked the wire terminals where the wires plug on.

Excellent endorsement to use the Italian-made repop switch. No plastic.

[disco51]

The new switch went in fairly easy.  I put the spacer in the freezer while I worked on the switch and it went back in like butter.  Hopefully, this will last a while.  I was able to get an open ended box end wrench in there to snug it up a tad.  Worst part was hooking back up the wires.  Finally realized if I snugged it tight, then backed it out a half turn, I could get one wire on easy and then tighten it all the way and put the other on.  

My transmission oil was overflowing when I opened up the fill plug first.  Looks like some oil in there.  Need to start figuring that one out.

Thanks for all of the help as always.

[disco51]

Just an update to this ongoing thread for those still interested.  After successful replacement of the neutral switch, the bike was dry for a week (non-ridden).  I finally got out for a decent ride and noticed the leak is back.  Damn.
I still have trouble differentiating gear oil from engine oil when they aren't fresh.  Might have been able to delay the neutral switch for awhile if I could have figured that one out.  To my defense it's tough to see for sure in that location if it's the switch or coming from the rear main seal or oil pump cover.
Fairly certain it's now the rear main seal or oil cover.
Think I'll put this job off until the winter.  
Does the 79' have the Phillips head screws on the oil pump cover needing the impact wrench?
A great write up on this job from Brook Reams on the internet I found through the airheads list.