Oil filter info

[arvo92]

Does anybody know intimate details about the oil filters and what the data on them indicates.

Today I changed all the fluids in my R65 finally. Working on the machine I have guessed that the bike has been standing for at least 10 years or more.

New oil filter has the production date on it. Old oil filter has more info but the date does not really look like a date of production. Anybody with more info? It would be crazy if the bike was last serviced around 1986 but not impossible.

[Bob_Roller]

It may be production info, like 4 would be 4th day, 1 first shift, 10 month October, 85=1985 .

Someone may have had filters around for a while .

Does anyone know when BMW filters changed from the separate o-rings on the filters, to the incorporated seals that we see today ??

[Mike V]

Not sure what that date of the transition is Bob.

Arvo, don't know about filter "shelf-life", I would simply replace the oil filter with a quality grade hinged filter, pn 11 42 1 337 572.  I also suggest you replace the metal shim and filter o-ring. Not to start a tirade on the compression of that filter o-ring, but I would be sure and measure your canister depth accurately to determine the correct combination of shims, and gaskets if needed.  Remember the cover gasket does not seal the cavity of leaks.  That's the job of the filter o-ring, specifically. There's plenty of information on that subject if you do a search here on the forum, I believe.  Maybe Monte will jump in - I know he just went through the process.  But that canister depth is important and once determined, you can note your values, make the correct adjustments / combinations accordingly and comfortably move on.  I use Oak's 25% compression procedure. Just my personal preference. I can post that equation if you like, or you can go to Antons web site which describes the issue also with a table of information.

http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/canister.html

I've been using the filters supplied by John Rayski at Euromotoelectric with no problems at all.  John offers quality filters, O-rings, shims, and gaskets in bulk at reduced cost.  No affiliation, just an option.

[arvo92]

Thanks for the info. I changed all the items (oil filter, o-ring, shim, paper gasket). The hinged filter is only necessary when you have little room for installing the normal long sized filter (panels or some other stuff on the way).

But yes, even though I have read that article about filter and shim dimensions, I totally forgot to measure the depth of the canister. I just renewed all the parts. The white o-ring went into very snug and compressed when I tightened the bolts. I havent cranked on the engine, therefore I could still probably re-open the oil filter cover and check it (I added the oil to the engine though).

I tried to google about the oil filter design change but no luck!

[Mike V]

"The hinged filter is only necessary when you have little room for installing the normal long sized filter (panels or some other stuff on the way)."

I'm not going to start a debate, I would trust either one.  Some will say the one-piece filter is hard to come by these days and others will say the hinged filter is stronger and less capable of collapse based on recent reports.

I think the main thing is; change your oil and filters periodically and take heed of the o-ring compression values.

Here's probably more information than you originally asked for.  From Snowbum's site.  This may take a while.

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/Oil.htm

-Mike V.

[Barry]

I could still probably re-open the oil filter cover and check it (I added the oil to the engine though).

Roll the bike onto a couple of 1"planks and put it on the side stand so it leans over more than usual.  You can then remove the filter cover with almost no oil loss. I've done it several times to check the installation was correct.

Come to think of it unless you have cranked the engine to prime the filter (which you should always do)  there might not be any oil in the filter compartment at all.

[montmil]

I would definitely remove the filter cover, use a vernier caliper to measure depth of the filter's canister-to-machined surface of the engine block and then use the formula supplied by Anton to determine if you need the paper gasket or not.

The filter canister in my R100S was set too shallow and was over-compressing the 'white' o-ring. Paper gasket/s corrected the issue on the "S". However, neither of my R65s needed a gasket. It does seem counterintuitive... you get a gasket with the filter kit -usually- so the assumption is you need to use it. Not necessarily so. Keep in mind, that big ol' o-ring does the sealing job, not the paper gasket.

Dredging up memories of bruised elbows and laying on cold concrete installing and removing 'bendy' filters and bits.... Good news is that I can now make a filter change in wizard time!

Props to John Raski and his EME products. Great prices on quality Airhead needs/wants plus very fast service.

Mike V did play just a tiny part in Mongo's ultimate success.  

[Semper Gumby]

My R65 requires two shims to get the pressure on the white (sometimes orange) o-ring right.  With this set properly I do not use the outer paper gasket.

+1 on the Snowbum tech article.  Surly the Snowbum is one of God's angels come to help us mere mortals?

Arvo!  The rubber ring from that filter is missing.  Did you remove it or is it still inside your motor's canister?  When you put the next filter in with the rubber ring on both ends, a left over ring still inside will cause problems.

[arvo92]

The rubber ring was on the both ends of this filter and so had the new filter. Picture side of the filter was facing the outside of the chamber, therefore if the rubber ring fell off by the time taking the picture, it should not be inside.

Luckily I have the picture of the inside of the filter chamber after the removal of oil filter. There you go, always take pictures!

[Barry]

In your picture it's possible to make out  the pressure relief valve towards the top that opens to bypass the filter when the oil is cold.  It's just a steel ball with a spring behind it. On rare occasions that spring has been known to break with broken bits of the spring then getting into the crank bearings causing serious damage. Even if the broken bits stay put the oil would continue to bypass the filter when hot.

I've adopted the practice of testing that valve by "poking it with a stick"  at every filter change.  Some have said that might stress the spring unnecessarily and it would be better left alone but that ignores the fact that the valve opens at least every time you start the bike from cold and probably oscillates in some circumstances. Poke it gently though as the spring is quite weak.

[Ed Miller]

What happens when you push that relief valve.  Does it just push in and pop back out again?  

[Barry]

What happens when you push that relief valve.Does it just push in and pop back out again?

Yes that's it exactly, the test is to see if the ball moves and you can feel enough spring pressure to infer it's not broken.  I use a long piece of thin dowel for all the world like a chop stick.