Bleeding brakes

[AlfromNH]

I have been fiddling around for 2 weeks now trying to get the pressure on the handle up and no success.

I removed the caliper from the fork leg and suspended it above the height of the master cylinder(with the lines still connected) hoping to get any air to rise and settle in the caliper. I left it like that overnight.

Not sure how much that helped, if at all, but I was struggling getting a solid feel at the lever and eventually got it solved.

[arvo92]

I removed the caliper from the fork leg and suspended it above the height of the master cylinder(with the lines still connected) hoping to get any air to rise and settle in the caliper. I left it like that overnight

Thanks for the tip. I am waiting for the wrap tape from the mail, wrap it around the bleeder and bleed it like then. But getting all the tiniest air bubbles to rise to the highest point is a good idea. I will try to bleed the hoses while having the caliper higher than MC to see if that solves that last final sloppiness of my lever ( it is rather ok but might prove not sufficient for MOT test).

[steve hawkins]

I re-piped my brakes on the R100 yesterday.  Single pipe from master cylinder down to right hand caliper and then a second pipe running from the right hand caliper to the left.  Banjo bolts required.  Pipe between calipers loops over front mudguard, just behind the fork leg.  

What I found that works well, in the traditional way, is to fill the master cylinder and then lightly feather the brake lever - i.e. tickle it until air bubbles stop finding their way up through the master cylinder into the reservoir.  Once the master cylinder is properly primed, it will efficiently push fluid down the pipes.  Air will still work its way to the top, and should be dealt with the same way by tickling the lever.

Took us less than half an hour to bleed the system from dry.  nice and firm now.

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