Centre stand as re-assembly commences

[clonmore1]

I remember it was very difficult to get the bike off the C/S when I first got it! with my very limited knowledge back then! I didn't realise the stand could go "over centre".

So, here's my question;

Do I need to do anything with the stand before I start to re-assemble?

frame has been powder coated and looks all shiny & nice. I don't have access to welding gear or knowledge to make any modification and access to funds in currently limited

I know this question has been asked many times before, I did a search and came up with a limited number of replies, I need some help remembering that my skills/knowledge & abilities are limited.

My Clymer manual isn't easy to read, so I really need a step by step process to assist me, please help if you can and are able.

Thank you

[Lucky_Lou]

I had to re weld the stop as it was worn and the stand was going too far forward, but if you have already powder coated the frame it will make a mess. It may be possible to weld a bit on the stand if needed, I have arc welding gear (single phase domestic type plug) if you do need to weld it I will be happy to pop over with it, re assemble it and have a look at the position before you put the engine back in and maybe post a picture for the herds opinion !!.
Lou

[AlfromNH]

That's a mighty generous offer Lou!

I'm dealing with the same issue. At least part of my problem is that the screws were loose for long enough to have elongated the countersunk holes:


I'm not sure what, if anything could be done about that, especially now that the frame is powder coated. Just tightening them made the stand more solid, and helped the angle, altho I still think it should be more vertical:


I think I'll build up a little weld on the stand's stop surface and it should be ok.

[Barry]

The stops on my frame weren't too bad so I just welded the stand tips which is much easier in several respects.

Whichever way it's done there will be a good deal of trial and error involved grinding down the weld until the stand sits at the best angle and also is equal on both sides.

The stand tips are a laminated construction; basically a flattened tube with a filler piece in between. Welding the tips strengthens the laminations so it will wear better in future. You can also build up the thickness of  the tips particularly on the inside to provide more contact width.


  

[Lucky_Lou]

Al I would drill that counter sink out and sleeve it...... will bring you the welder if you pay for the ticket........
Barry that bike is just toooooooo clean.
Lou

[Barry]

Barry that bike is just toooooooo clean.

You wouldn't say that if you could see it now after riding through the winter. I need to take the stand off some time to re-paint it.

Is there anything that can survive the stone chipping that the stand cross bar gets ?

[clonmore1]

Lou,

That is very kind of you. Do I do the stand now or continue with the rebuild to rolling chassis and then do the stand prior to engine refit?

Barry, thanks for the images, v helpful.

Any idea on doing the stand now whilst the frame is in its naked state or do it later?

Thanks again

Chris

[Tony Smith]

Someone else in this forum, in the relatively recent past posted lovely photos of the stainless steel strap they welded over the "stops" end of their stand.

I have to say that their method was/is much neater than my approach of simply building up the ends with weld.

I am going to do the fix with stainless steel strap to my wife's bike in the very near future. She has been grizzling for years about how hard it is to get on and off the centre stand. We bought her a new stand (and side stand) which let me tell you is an interesting process for a 1979 model, to BMW's credit they didn't have a side stand in stock and they issued orders to the foundry that originally made them to knock them up 6, one for my wife and 5 to put into stock.

Sorry, digressed. SHE complained that the new stand only partially fixed the problem, but I ignored her as at the time I could not see any way to improve the situation.

I now realize that in fact it is the frame stops on her early model frame that have worn down in the past 35 years. The frame is too bloody hard to get at and I am unsure if the stops are cast iron or forged steel - using the wrong rod could cause a world of hurt, so I am going to use strap to build up the stand as that I know is bright mild and will not be harmed by welding to it.

[clonmore1]

Tony,

Can you remember which thread you saw that post in?

I can't find it on the tech files section.

Thanks

Chris

[Barry]

It's my stand that has the stainless steel strips welded around the curved part of the legs but I didn't do any photo's other than the one in my post above which only shows I blended them well enough not to be easily noticeable. There's no great secret other than to use some lengths of stainless strip pre-curved to fit. Tack it in place and weld with stainless rods.  Followed by a lot of time with the angle grinder.

[Lucky_Lou]

Chris I would be inclined to do the stand just prior to engine refit...... you need the bike to be assembled to know the best position, let me know if/when you want me to call in with the welder and grinder... I have plenty of free weekends before Easter.
Lou

[clonmore1]

Thanks Lou

I'll be in touch soon

Cheers

Chris