transmission switch

[wmsoller]

any advise on how to replace the transmission switch on my 65LS without removing the transmission...

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

[movedhere] Chit-Chat [move by] Rob Valdez 79 R65.

There are two ways that I know of:

1) disconnect the driveshaft and unfasten the gearbox from the engine and slide it back.

2) support the engine with a sissor-jack and remove the rear engine mount.
Pry out the large cylindrical tube above the oil pan/engine casting (it looks like part of the engine with dirt & grease) and that will give you the free space you require.

I have never done #2.  I hear putting the tube back in can be worriesome.  I guess some folks have removed a little material from the ends, or at least chamfer the edges.  I have also heard of putting it in the freezer for a few hours to shrink it as much as possible.  Install fast!

I usually put up with it until something else needed the gearbox removed, unless it is leaking.

Do you know how to disconnect your driveshaft?  (the boot can be so much fun!)

[wmsoller]

This is what is stated on the Max BMW site. I'm not certain I follow...

To replace the transmission switch, we suggest the following technique. Remove rear engine stud. Loosen the nuts on the front engine stud. Then using a long aluminum drift (wooden dowel would work) drive the “engine rear shelf spacer” back (towards the rear wheel) about ½ inch. You will be working on the left side of the engine, using a hammer and drift. Don’t forget to use a new aluminum washer on the new neutral switch. Don’t over tighten the new switch.

[montmil]

Clarify for me... is the lower portion of the LS frame different from the "regular" R65 chassis?

I replaced the OEM "leak" with an Italian-made repop from Motobins. A better switch and has been leak-free for years. Replacing the switch did not require detaching the driveshaft nor unbolting the gear box.

The thick-walled aluminum tube has the aft motor mount bolt passing thru it and must be removed. I have a few pry bars from Harbor Freight that look like big, flat blade screwdrivers with their tips bent a few degrees. Perfect for popping out the x-member and also for re-aligning the bugger during refit. One of the smaller dead-blow hammers will be appreciated, too.

After detaching the electrical leads, the switch can be removed. Be sure to use a fresh crush washer with the new switch. You really don't want to do this chore again for many years!

The 'square' edges of the aluminum x-member can be easily beveled using a bench grinder. I put a 45-degree bevel that's about 1/16+ inch in width. Helps get that rascal started between the frame rails.
   I tried freezing the tube. Waste of time for me as the time required to cuss that bastid back into the frame after letting it fall out a few times... well, by then, it had warmed up to ambient temps.

Do Not over-torque the new switch. Snug it up nicely and you'll be good. And don't forget to plug in the wires!

To support the bike during this chore (understand you'll likely be laying on your back and side along with the potential for scuffed knuckles) I cut a small square of 3/4" plywood to approx 3x3-inches. I bored a hole in the middle just slightly deeper than the head of the oil drain bolt. If you do woodworking, you may have a Forstner bit that will bore a neat, flat-bottomed hole. the wood pad protects the engine and is at a good support location. A small bottle jack will then stabilze the engine prior to removing the aft motor mount bolt.
   No need to jack up the bike too far as it can become unstable. Just enough to get the load off the motor mount.

And clean off that nasty "shelf" below the switch. BMW designers placed it there as a reservoir to collect oil drips and then allow them to slowly dribble onto your garage floor.

[montmil]

Hey, Bill... Is this your Saturday project?  

[Bob_Roller]

To get the switch out, the large diameter aluminum spacer at the rear of the engine need to come out to access the switch .

The rear engine mount bolt/stud has to be removed .

You need to support the rear of the engine with a hydraulic jack or something similar .

With the rear mount bolt/stud removed, you need to remove the spacer from the engine, that's where the block of wood and a hammer come in .

For reassembly, bevel the edges of the spacer where it mates to the engine, the spacer is a tight fit .

I freeze the spacer to get it to shrink a bit to ease installation, I tried dry ice the last time and it worked quite well .

The OEM switch may last 5-6 years and then start leaking .

Lousy design of a part .

I was told by an independent BMW mechanic, to place sealant on the threads of the switch then tighten it up a little more than hand tight .

I did it, but 6 years later, mines leaking again .

Motobins in the UK has a non-OEM switch, I've got one and plan on installing it when I'm on vacation in about two months, has the appearance of being a better quality part, time will on that  .

[wmsoller]

Thanks all...

As usual, this all seems more work that it should be. Those BMW engineers certainly know how to plan out the fun (yes, my Saturday project).

[quixotic]

And Snowbum mentions the following:

Using a dental tool or other sharp small thin object, get right into and lightly scratch the junction of the metal body to the bakelite insulation.  Use a tiny piece of fine sandpaper, and rough-up the metal and especially the bakelite insulation, of that junction of the metal body to the hard plastic insulation section.  The idea is to sand the junction, including the metal and the plastic, for maybe 1/8" width minimum, and then clean that area with a strong evaporating solvent.  NON-oily acetone is what I use, that means NOT using your wife's fingernail polish remover.  Then apply a fine line, all-around, it need not be all that wide, with a thin viscosity 'wicking' Loctite.  You can also just use the common RED Loctite, if the switch is first warmed up some.   Let sit, terminals up, a full day, preferably in your warm house.  Then clean the junction with acetone, and then apply epoxy to the junction, completely around.   Either 5 minute or 24 hour epoxy is OK; JB weld is also OK; but I DO prefer a slow-curing epoxy.   Let it cure one full day, even if the 5 minute type.  THEN install switch....being careful to install the proper washer, and to use a socket if possible, and do NOT overtighten.  If you overtighten, you can distort the bond and it may leak.  Use of a socket is preferable, but a box end wrench works fine.  The tool you select may depend on the particular switch and terminals orientation.

I have a new switch waiting on my bench, but unless I get really bored, I may just put up with the weeping.  

[montmil]

You can also save a couple days of modifying the BMW switch with various glues -and hoping it doesn't leak... again- with the install of The Italian Job from Motobins.

if you elect to leave the R65's transmission in place while R&R'ing the neutral indicator switch, there's no way a socket or box wrench will fit... that "oil reservoir" shelf prevents it. You'll use an OE wrench and, as previously stated, just snug 'er up and call it done.

[wmsoller]

Thanks all for advise. Got switch finally installed today...

[Matt Chapter]

Thanks all for advise. Got switch finally installed today...

Congratulations!

What was your SPM?  (Swears per minute)  How much beer did the job require?

I have to do this "soon" and I hoping the mono shocks are a little easier.

[montmil]

...I have to do this "soon" and I hoping the mono shocks are a little easier.

Uh, Matt, uh...  

Unless you have an entirely different transmission without that oil-collecting shelf right under the neutral switch, you'll be tossing wrenches and making obscene remarks about the parentage of those BMW engineers what be causing your blood pressure to spike, too.

Remain Calm
Drink Often

[georgesgiralt]

Actually, it's not that difficult.
Support the back of the engine on a jack.
Remove the rear fixing bolt (extract the threaded axe)
Remove the big aluminium roundel which is between the two engine ears.
Remove the switch which is now an easy reach ! I do hope you've previously drained the gearbox...
Replace the new switch, tighten at the specified torque.
Drive the big roundel in place using a plastic hammer
Put back the engine bolt and tighten at the specified torque.
Put oil back in the tranny and you're done.
I did it a couple of months ago, it took me around half an hour, including the gearbox drain/refill.

[Matt Chapter]

I did it a couple of months ago, it took me around half an hour, including the gearbox drain/refill.

I think Georges is my new hero.  I doubt I could get my beer and wrenches lined up in a half hour.  I'll let you guys know when I do it.. for now I'm content marking my parking spots.

[montmil]

I did it a couple of months ago, it took me around half an hour, including the gearbox drain/refill.

I think Georges is my new hero.  I doubt I could get my beer and wrenches lined up in a half hour.  I'll let you guys know when I do it.. for now I'm content marking my parking spots.

A Texas lady friend of mine enjoys fairly frequent visits to France. She often speaks of how slow French things move. Perhaps she was referring to the clocks?

Even the Flat Rate Manual for the switch R&R far exceeds 30 minutos. So sayeth the lads at BMW of North Dallas.