I haven't found the "how-to" article yet, but this is the NAPA auto parts fuseholder that Monte used, and the one I used is very similar.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NW_784667_0362425446These take a standard SAE mini-blade type automotive fuse and is fairly water resistant and orders of magnitude more reliable than the exposed bent metal fingers with ceramic fuse factory setup.
you basically open / remove the seat, take off the fuel tank move the underseat toolbox tray and expose the little fuse holder board (2 fuses on it). you unclamp the screw clamp holding it to the frame backbone and move it so you can sort out the wires that go to either end of each fuse holder. You disconnect the wires (do (1) fuse at a time to avoid getting your wires confused) and connect them to the wired ends of one of these new NAPA fuses. I use good quality crimp-on splice connectors, with an external length of heatshrink tubing to further protect the splice.
The original fuses are only around 8 Amps or so IIRC, so pick a suitably small SAE mini-blade fuse (say, 10A) to install to ensure similar protection. If you cannot find a <10A or less fuse, you could use a bit larger, but by no means go higher than 15A fuse.
Use nylon zipties to organize the (2) new separate in-line fuseholders and wiring, perhaps tying them onto spare screw holes on the relay mounting panel for a neat installation. I like to leave the wires just long enough so that I can reach under and access the fuse holders from the side without having to remove the tank or open the seat, for those rare "side-of-the-road" electrical checks..