so i think i have a bent valve spring?!

[Justin B.]

You don''t need to remove the head.  You can either pack the cylinder (through spark hole) with small diameter nylon rope/cord or use compressed air to hold the valve closed.  All that said it wouldn't be a whole lot harder to remove the head.  If you do remove the head you should be prepared to cut off the exhaust nut and have a spare available...

[tvrla]

Do realize that the R65 exhaust nuts aren't the same as the rest of the airheads - they're smaller. So be sure to purchase the right one - especially if sourcing used.

I couldn't see the video - it just zipped right through really fast and I couldn't really see anything from it. So I can't comment on it at all.

As for removing the spring - you really need a valve spring compressor. You might find one cheap on ebay - or take the head to your friendly automotive shop around the corner and enlist their help. They probably wouldn't even charge you for doing it.

The spring is held in with a split ring retained by a large thick washer that the spring seats on. The spring compressor presses on the spring via the thick washer, thus forcing it away from the split retainer, which can then drop out and allow everything to fly apart.

[bruce_launceston]

Valve spring compressors can be had for about $40 or $50 from auto parts stores. Chinese of course but a copy of the good old MECO ones that still sell for the same money if you can find one.

A good torque wrench will probaby be dearer than that, no point buying a cheap one of those!

[Barry]

In my youth I always managed to compress valve springs using a lash up in a drill press.  Think inverted "U" shaped steel strip with a bolt through the top that was held in the chuck.  With suitable blocks of wood under the head to support the valve it worked well enough.

[montmil]

In my youth I always managed to compress valve springs using a lash up in a drill press.  Think inverted "U" shaped steel strip with a bolt through the top that was held in the chuck.  With suitable blocks of wood under the head to support the valve it worked well enough.

There you go! Airheads improvise and save money.  [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[Matt Chapter]

Ok, the video sucked.  I'd like to blame my phone, my brother, and the poor lighting in my garage.

Here's a couple of photos...

good http://www.flickr.com/photos/77662887@N05/8492773866/in/photostream

bad http://www.flickr.com/photos/77662887@N05/8492773362/in/photostream/

[georgesgiralt]

Hello !
To remove the spring you do not need any special compression tool. This tool is only needed to reassemble.
Remove the head from the bike and put it on the bench, piston side down on a rag (the purpose of the rag is to fill the combustion chamber and retain the valve).
Get a tube wrench bigger than the keepers diameter but smaller than the retainer. Get a middle size hammer.
Put the tube wrench on the retainer, and strike it with the hammer, a firm strike while retainer the wrench with one hand.
The strike will press the spring down freeing the keepers which will stay in the tube wrench.
If you hold the wrench with "some force", the spring and retainer won't jump.
It's easier to do than to explain.
This way, you will be able to check what's wrong, broken, and order the parts you need.
Definitely you need a new set of gaskets : push rod sealing cones, base O-ring, head gasket at least.
Then, depending on mileage and what you'll find during dismantling, a new set of rings, and maybe new connecting rod bearings..
If I was you, I'll put new valves and new valves guides because these break without any warning ruining the motor.

[Matt Chapter]

Well guys I finally got around to tackling this, and I'm happy to report that it went pretty smoothly.

At first, I tried to remove the exhaust nut by myself.  Once the bike started to lever up on the center stand, I enlisted some help to hold the bike down while I was pulling up.  The nut came off without a hitch.

Then this evening I tore into it, took about 1.5 hours from "where the hell's my 15 mm socket" to "ooo, piston!"  I actually ended up removing the cylinder and head as one unit.  The cylinder bore looks clean, I can see some very faint scoring, might have been cross hatching at some point.  The piston itself seems ok, some mild carbon deposits on  the top.  It seems like I may have gotten pretty lucky as far as big damage items.  The head and cylinder are going in to a head guy, so hopefully I'll know more soon.

[montmil]

<snip> At first, I tried to remove the exhaust nut by myself.  Once the bike started to lever up on the center stand, I enlisted some help to hold the bike down while I was pulling up.  The nut came off without a hitch. <snip> The cylinder bore looks clean, I can see some very faint scoring, might have been cross hatching at some point...

Your '84 motor should have the nikasil cylinders, so there shouldn't be any cross-hatch hone marks... unless a PO erred in working on these "no hone" nikasil bores.

Gasp! You evidently got very lucky if the exhaust nuts withstood that much removal effort without damaging the head's exhaust thread stub. Use some anti-sieze when going back together.

Hope your good fortune holds during the "Head Man's" work.

BTW, Matt... MotoGP's Honda Team Repsol is in Austin right now! Testing the track. Getting a jump on next month's GP race. Bengt Phorqs and I, plus our entourage, will be there.

[decorn33]

FWIW, I purchased an exhaust nut tool from Hendersen Precision - www.hendersenprecision.com for $35 bucks which worked just fine.  Remember that if the old nuts don't start spinning freely after about 1/4 turn, cut them off and get new ones. Can't afford to damage the cylinder threads. Put some anti-seize on the threads when reassembling.

[Ed Miller]

Your '84 motor should have the nikasil cylinders, so there shouldn't be any cross-hatch hone marks... unless a PO erred in working on these "no hone" nikasil bores.

My hone marks were still visible at 60,000 miles or so.  They are faint but not worn out.  I did not hone even for my new rings, I just cleaned the bores up really well.  I love nikasil... some day I will spring for some for my Triumph.

[tvrla]

Like Ed says, Nikasils are honed from the factory! It's suggested when re-ringing to lightly use a ball hone, but I'm not sure that's necessary.

[georgesgiralt]

Hello !
My '82 Nickasil have eaten two sets of rings in around 100 000 miles.
Last time I opened up (last November), the glazing was starting to deteriorate at the top on one cylinder (the Guru said it could be used for another set of rings) but the honing marks at the base of the barrels were still visible. Pistons were quite spotless.. So the barrels are wonderful but the pistons are not bad either !
I did not hone the cylinders as I did not had access to the correct honing tool. Will see....
BTW, if you plan to clean the carbon deposit on the pistons, do this with nothing harder than a green Scotch Brite in order not to mar the tiny rings between the top ring and the end of the piston. These rings are here for a purpose.... And use light force... Patience is good when one see the price of the new piston....  

[nhmaf]

You need a decent torque wrench preferably one that isn't a high torque unit - when you reinstall the head bolts you'll have to torque them up gradually, in cross-cross pattern, first to ~15lbs, and then up to 24lb and no further.   You need a tube of hylomar (now it is sold as permatex 25249 or something similar) too).

I've seen spring compressor tools, but maybe you can make do without one or borrow one from a buddy as it isn't the sort of thing one needs very often.

[montmil]

Factory hone marks -even in high mileage, well maintained engines- may often be visible low in the cylinder bore as the piston rings do not get that far down the bore. Da Snowbum and other Airhead gurus are against doing any additional honing as the Nikasil plating is wee thin.

Clean the bores to where you wouldn't mind eating off them. Then lightly oil prior to reassembly. [smiley=thumbup.gif]