running badly

[Bill Conquest]

Hi everyone - I hope someone can help shed some light on my badly running '79 r65..it would start & idle o.k. but when riding it won't tach above 4000 or so..& bogs down going uphill. I changed the points & plugs..gaped at .016 - .018 (took the bean can out to do this), now realiised i should probably have changed the condenser(will do now). But..saw on another site someone testing a condenser w/ a reading of .664..my new one tests at 0 on my tester set at 200vdc? Have checked the fuel into the bowls..seems o.k. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks, Bill Conquest

[Bob_Roller]

To check a condenser, you need to be on the 'ohms' scale .

A good condenser will show an increase in resistance as it gets charged by the multimeter .

A condenser (capacitor) is an electrical storage device .

Have you done anything to the bike recently maintenance wise ?

[Bill Conquest]

Hi Bob - I'll try that on the ohm side ..I changed the coils awhile ago but this problem has been going on for awhile..just put a new condenser in & will start it to see..not sure where to go next.. thanks, Bill

[Bill Conquest]

Also..forgot to ask..should the blk lead on my tester be in the"com" or ohms hole?

[Bill Conquest]

o.k..added the new condenser..staticaly timed the bike, then used a timing light..when getting the s mark in the center of the hole at idle(hard to see past the carb), the bean can is turned all the way to one side & the bike idles o.k. but the throttle response when reved up is bad..any ideas? advance unit? i'm at a loss.. thanks, Bill

[Bob_Roller]

If you have the bean can all the way to one extreme and you are just getting the timing correct for idle, there is a problem .

I don't have an R65 with contact breaker points, I have the electronic ignition on all of mine, I don't have any experience with this system .

You reside in a 'corrosion friendly' environment, the advance mechanism being stuck, may be at fault .

[Bill Conquest]

thanks Bob..any other things to look for?

[Barry]

I know you had the bean can off the bike but when you set the points was that with the out rigger bearing in place ?

If not the gap can change by several thou when the outrigger plate is reinstalled.

[Bill Conquest]

Hi Barry - yes i had the rigger plate on when setting the points - a snug .018.. would the points setting throw off the timing that much? any other ideas? thanks, Bill

[Bill Conquest]

Maybe i'm getting this wrong..there's an ot mark right above the s mark with a line..could that be the place? thanks, Bill

[Barry]

18 thou is fine. Changing the gap does affect timing but a couple of thou either way should not change it by enough to have you at the end of the bean can mounting slots. Something else is amiss. I'd consider putting the old points back in to see what difference that makes.

The OT mark is top dead centre. You can just see the line under the OT mark in this picture. The S mark is quite close - only 6 degrees or a couple teeth lower and you do want to use the S mark.

Personally I static time the S mark with a buzzer or test lamp because it's just easier and I can do it more accurately than with strobe.  I then check full advance with a strobe lamp and it's usually spot on.

[Bill Conquest]

Thanks, Barry - I did static time to the s mark, but have a hard time seeing over my my carb with the light. The old points were ready to be changed, all pitted.. the beancan was adjusted all the way over to one side. With the new points I was finally able to get the beancan into the middle by opening the points to a healthy 18. As an aside, the bike wouldn't rev beyond 4000 or so & bogged under load..I looked at one carb & saw the diaphram was pulled away from the ring & had a small hole..time for total rebuild! Thanks for the info & pic.
Bill