Was on my way to work, when this happened...

[Session101]

http://imgur.com/9s85bbI

^i inserted the picture originally but it was way too big, so here's just an easy link

Of course...

So im open to suggestions on a new clutch cable for the bike, im looking for a direct replacement without rigging something up. Also some fast shipping would be nice as well. Anyone can suggest a nice replacement that its easy on the wallet and can be shipped rather quickly?

[Bob_Roller]

Have a BMW dealer in SLC ?

Probably take a week or so to get the cable through a dealer, if you have one locally .

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0363&mospid=51897&btnr=32_0744&hg=32&fg=73

Price is not accurate, but it's one of the few sites that you can link to .

[Session101]

i saw that bowden cable on A&S bmw (http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/32731237694/bmw/51897/R65/32/Steering/Bowden_cable/32_0744?gclid=CLOuoLec4rYCFWXZQgodDR0A8g) for the same price but it is listed as bmw r65 85+

i saw this on amazon, not exactly the best source but are all r65 clutch cables the same?

http://www.amazon.com/BMW-Clutch-Cable-R100RS-R65LS/dp/B007UT0EVO

[Bob_Roller]

No, there are at least two different clutch cables for the twin shock R65 .

The R65LS, uses a shorter cable, due to the shorter handlebars .

There are a lot of differences between the '79-'80 model year bikes, sometimes referred to as the 'first generation' R65 .

There's an important production start date, 09/80, this is the start of the 'second generation' R65 .

You'll see notes about this in the parts catalogs, so be mindful when ordering parts .

[Session101]

ah yes! i see the length difference

first gen: L-1495
second gen: L-1386

now to locate

[nhmaf]

It really would be best in this case to use a BMW cable of the correct part number, taking into account if you are using the stock handlebars for your bike or not.

Since your clutch cable is breaking at that point, it tends to indicate that the cable has been bending/flexing at the barrel end instead of pivoting in the circular pivot point in the end of the clutch lever. Sooooooo-> I'd also check that area of the lever to make sure it isn't worn out oblong or have nicks or dents that are preventing the pivoting.   If it just needs a little cleanup/dressing with some sandpaper that is fine to do.   Then when installing the replacement cable, put some good sticky grease on that barrel that goes into the lever's pivot arm and periodically check it to make sure that it is free to rotate in there and the cable is not bending/flexing instead.

[Session101]

yeah i will be sure to grease the new one, i think the manual it stated that all cables including the clutch cable needed to be greased regularly. Im assuming this cable is the life of the bike so 33 years old, i think its due for a new one..

[montmil]

Grease the barrel terminal where it fits into the lever cavity after checking for any odd burr or obstruction.

Your new clutch cable will most likely be nylon lined and eliminates the need and mess of dribbling oil through the cable sheath.

Do apply a small amount of grease to the barrel on the transmission end, too.

[Matt Chapter]

Sooooooo-> I'd also check that area of the lever to make sure it isn't worn out oblong or have nicks or dents that are preventing the pivoting.  

This is *extremely* important.  I've been through a few clutch cables because of this.  Eventually I just replaced the lever, and the original is on my desk.

[tvrla]

A much cheaper alternative to the expensive BMW stuff is Flanders in the Los Angeles area. Good quality stuff too.  

Measure the length of yours and order appropriately.

[Session101]

thanks, but i already "special ordered" the cable from the BMW dealership here, it was $34.95 plus tax, and about a week to get.

[Session101]

can either of you guys take a picture of the clutch cable routing? i have mine at least what i think was the way i took it off, but i feel that there is either too much slack or maybe im not routing it well. I have it zip-tied to the frame so it won't hit the exhaust

Im running mine along the frame, then up through the front of the forks behind the gauge mount to the clutch, and well there be cable stretch because i have the cable not even tightened and had to pull the clutch back a bit to get the cable on.

the more pictures the better, i tried doing a search with no pictures

[Air4Life]

This is the best I can do for you:

http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1349461949/7#7

[Session101]

seems legiit

so across the frame, then just behind the headlight, but not the headlight mount?

here are some pictures from an r100,

http://1978r1007restoration.shutterfly.com/pictures/454

http://1978r1007restoration.shutterfly.com/pictures/498

[Air4Life]

I will go out later today and see if I can capture more.  But I think this image (included originally on other thread) shows it passing between the head lamp and the bucket: