regime for replacement of electrical part.

[Graeme]

Despite a considered regime of replacing items before they fail, I still get caught out. The last time by the alternator that failed despite testing to 13.87 volts a couple of weeks before. So far, in addition to the above Alternator Rotor, I've replaced the CDI unit, ignition leads. A couple of relays as they have failed & I've got a starter motor and the handlebar Controls ready to fit.

The wiring is considered good after some repairs.

The Coils (2) are still outstanding and (so far) seem OK but  I'd feel safer if I replaced them.

The bike looks good but it's done a LOT of miles. The mechanic I took it to originally considered it in excess of 200,000 K's.

Mechanically I'm reasonably confident that I've got it sorted.

Any advise on other Electrical Components I should replace other than the above?

Summary - I've replaced or have ready to fit:-
CDI
Alternator Rotor & checked diode board
Handlebar Controls
Starter Motor
Spark Plugs & leads.
Blinker Relay

Thanks

[Bob_Roller]

The Hall Effect sensor in the 'bean can', may be something to think about .

But that's the problem with electrical parts, on average, they give no warning before failing .

You stated that you have two ignition coils, from a production date of 09/80, until the end of the airhead series bikes, sometime in '95, they came form the factory with a single dual output ignition coil .

Sounds like you may have a previous owner 'modification', due to the cost of an OEM replacement coil .

A couple of modifications that I have made to my R65's, is to relocate the negative battery cable from the transmission vent bolt, to the lower right engine to transmission bolt, with a replacement cable form a chain type auto parts store .

The other was to make up a larger diameter ground, or earthing wire from the main grounding, or earthing point at the voltage regulator where all of the bikes individual systems come together, (at least, on the twin shock bikes ), I made up a wire that goes from the main ground point, to the negative post of the battery .

When you replaced the ignition control module under the tank, did you apply heat-sink compound to the mating surface between the module and the aluminum heat-sink ?

Or was yours one of the module bonded to the heat-sink type ?

[Graeme]

Thanks Bob.

This is CDI unit that was replaced. The local Bike shop did the work in this instance as I couldn't work out the problem. The guy that owns Caringbah Motor Cycles seems to know what he is doing.



I might replace the coil/s then. I don't know how old they are but the look crappy.

[Barry]

The Coils (2) are still outstanding and (so far) seem OK butI'd feel safer if I replaced them.

I'm in a similar dilemma about the original 6 volt coils.  There are lots of opinions about that they age but I'm not so sure as they are just simple transformers.  Sure coils can fail but there is no mechanism for deterioration other than failing insulation leading to shorted secondary windings that says they should all have a finite life and assuming no open circuit abuse there is no reason for that to happen. OK I realise short of being the original owner it's hard to know if the coils have been abused.  I guess your coils are more vulnerable than mine in this respect Graeme as the maximum open circuit voltage is quite a bit lower on the points coils so they are much less likely to come to harm.

Problem is there is no easy way to test that coils are good as the low voltage resistance tests while worth doing are not definitive as they don't put the coil under normal operating stress.  Ironically the old fashioned way of testing a coil to see what length of spark it can produce is a much better test but could result in the open circuit damage we usually try to avoid - unless perhaps it was done using lower than normal primary voltage.  I've had some thoughts about doing spark tests at a reduced voltage. If both coils gave very similar results it would go along way to saying they are OK.

As an aside I have friends with classic cars much older than my air head and I make a point of asking them about ignition coils reputation for aging. It seems an alien concept to them and they happily drive around on 50 year old coils. It's a puzzle because there will be other people who tell you their coils have failed. All I know is on it's original coils my bike starts instantly on the button. If the coils are producing a decent spark at cranking voltages then when the engine is running the spark must be more than adequate.  I think I'm going to stick with my original coils for now.

As another aside there is one aspect of  the original coils that might might make me lean in the direction of replacement.  They are heavy lumps and a modern dual output coil must save several lbs.

[montmil]

I'm a fan of the solid-state voltage regulators as sold by Rick Jones at Motorrad Elektrik. I have them on both R65s and the R100S.

These units are plug n' play. They also maintain the battery at a higher 14.2 volts than the OEM regulator allows.

http://www.motoelekt.com/charging.htm

[Graeme]

That was definitely my "plan" montmil. Unfortunately, I got caught out by delaying it until I fitted the other parts as it tested OK.  It's been repaired now with a new original spec Rotor so I'm stuck with it for the life of the bike. The diode was replaced that indicated non-charging. So when idling, it's on. It's something I'd rather not know.

(Due to my garage being inaccessible due to construction work, I took it to a repairer as I mentioned above.)

Anyway, it seems that after I've fitted the units I have, that's about all I can do. I'll just have to enjoy it.

Thanks for the input once again.

[Bob_W]

Single coils were known as "crack-o-matics". Mine developed a visible crack and would quit in the rain. Stopping and checking almost anything allowed the moisture to dry and the coil to fire until the next time.
The problem was obvious with the tank removed. I think the dual coils are supposed to last a long time.
Bob

[Dizerens5]

There are some funny replacement coils around with no indication of origin, maker's name or anything at all. Might be good to try some Bosch ones (even tho they are made in Brazil these days).