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Author Topic: Stiff Clutch  (Read 796 times)

Offline Lucky_Lou

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Stiff Clutch
« on: November 03, 2012, 01:19:18 PM »
I have neglected Gertie for a while as i have mostly been playing with my "K" (holds hand out for slap) anyway went out today and the clutch seemed stiffer than usual, as i recall the cable is not supposed to be lubricated due to its lining and  as it is probably the original cable, do you think a new one will cure it or could it be a symptom of something else going wrong ?
Ta Lou
« Last Edit: November 03, 2012, 01:19:59 PM by Lucky_Lou »
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Online georgesgiralt

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Re: Stiff Clutch
« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2012, 01:44:32 PM »
Hello Lou,
I had the very same problem.
At first I dismantled the lever on the gearbox to find the roller bearing filled with everything but grease. This made me think I had to check for everything.
So I get the piston out and greased the roller bearing inside it, then get the lever end play correct as per the book. The difference was awesome.
While you are at it, grease the two nipples at each end of the cable.
Can't be bad....
« Last Edit: November 03, 2012, 01:45:23 PM by georgesgiralt »

Offline Barry

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Re: Stiff Clutch
« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2012, 02:08:06 PM »
Lou if your clutch mechanism is the early type like mine it won't have a needle roller bearing at the arm pivot just a plain bearing with a grease nipple on the end of the arm. I give that a few shots with the grease gun a couple of times a year,  I doubt that is the problem but an easy test is to pop off the external return spring (later models don't have this) and see if the arm is free to move. A more likely cause might be the thrust piston seizing up which will need removal to investigate..

Just thought of the usual caution on the early models which have the pivot pin located by a "hidden" circlip (If you still have that arrangement).  If that circlip falls off and the pin starts to drop out of the top support lug, the first symptom is a stiff clutch - just before the bottom support lug breaks off.  It's usually recommended that the pivot pin be replaced by a bolt and self locking nut.  Unlike a bolt the original pin is a precision fit so I've been reluctant to discard it. I just make sure the E type circlip is a good tight fit on the pin. It hasn't moved so far but I keep a close eye on it just in case.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2012, 02:36:21 PM by bhodgson »
Barry Cheshire, England 79 R45

Offline montmil

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Re: Stiff Clutch
« Reply #3 on: November 04, 2012, 09:03:29 AM »
Neglect a female at your peril. ;)
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

Offline Lucky_Lou

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Re: Stiff Clutch
« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2012, 10:04:17 AM »
Quote
Neglect a female at your peril. ;)
Got a get out of jail card......just say "Yes Love" dont matter what the question is it usually works.
I will strip the gearbox off as i am due a spline lube but probably wont get round to it until after Christmas further investigation will be easier then thanks for the suggestions.
Lou
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Offline Bob_Roller

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Re: Stiff Clutch
« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2012, 10:42:32 AM »
Look at the clutch cable at the handlebar end, my original cable frayed right at the swaged cable end .

No clue it was going bad, left home everything was fine , about 2 miles  from home , the clutch started acting odd, pulled over found the cable was not going back into the sheath/conduit properly .

You can lube the cables if you want, I've been doing it, I use a cleaner, like isopropyl alcohol to clean it out, if you use some harsh or strong cleaning chemical, it may harm the teflon lining, then I use a common cable lube, I think I have PJ1 cable lube .
'81 R65
'82 R65 LS
'84 R65 LS
'87 Moto Guzzi V65 Lario
'02 R1150R
Riding all year long since 1993 .
I'll give up my R65, when they pry my cold dead hands from the handlebars !!!!!