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Author Topic: ATE Brake Torque  (Read 778 times)

luckyd20

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ATE Brake Torque
« on: September 19, 2012, 02:10:34 AM »
Hey I'm putting the 2 halves of the ATE brake and would like to know the torque value to mount the 2 halve together. Thanks guys!

Offline montmil

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Re: ATE Brake Torque
« Reply #1 on: September 19, 2012, 07:38:16 AM »
I'm unsure if I've ever seen, read or heard of the factory torque value. Anybody?

Keep in mind you are snugging a steel bolt into an aluminum threaded bore. Stripping the alloy threads is not outside the realm of possibility. Plus, many torque wrenches are terribly inaccurate at very low values.

I would use a short-handled wrench or ratchet and tighten the bolts to the FAA's TLAR standards with, maybe, a touch of blue removable LocTite.

Re-check bolt security after your first ride. Bet you'll be good to go.
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

Offline Barry

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Re: ATE Brake Torque
« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2012, 09:09:17 AM »
I couldn't find a torque value when I did my caliper a few years back. There must be an old thread because I asked the same question. Don't believe I got a definitive answer and don't remember what I used but if I had to make an educated guess it would be something in the range of 15 to 18 lbft.

Another approach is it's easy enough to find the recommended torque value for a standard 8.8 steel fastener. What are they something like M10 ?   I would look that value up and then halve the figure in consideration of a steel bolt in an alloy casting.  


Edit

I just searched for my old thread. They are 8mm fasteners and I used 15 ftlb with no leaks or problems. As they are only 8mm 15 ftlb is quite high on the basis of half the steel value so I wouldn't go any higher.

http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1270141341/0#0


OK Monte I give in what's FAA's TLAR - got to be something to do with aviation
« Last Edit: September 19, 2012, 09:22:11 AM by bhodgson »
Barry Cheshire, England 79 R45

Offline Bob_Roller

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Re: ATE Brake Torque
« Reply #3 on: September 19, 2012, 09:20:40 AM »
Here's the technique that I have used, put the caliper in a vise protected by a couple of pieces of wood, tighten the bolts by hand using a standard length allen wrench, then hit the wrench with the palm of your hand just to get that little bit of movement .

That's 'precision torquing', or, in German  'gutentite' .

Haven't had one leak yet .

I have not seen a published torque value for the bolts .

Just remember, if it does leak, you can always tighten it up a bit more, you can't loosen a stripped thread .


« Last Edit: September 19, 2012, 09:23:34 AM by Bob_Roller »
'81 R65
'82 R65 LS
'84 R65 LS
'87 Moto Guzzi V65 Lario
'02 R1150R
Riding all year long since 1993 .
I'll give up my R65, when they pry my cold dead hands from the handlebars !!!!!

luckyd20

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Re: ATE Brake Torque
« Reply #4 on: September 19, 2012, 12:12:35 PM »
ALright thanks guys! I did torque it to 15ft-lbs so we'll just see if it leaks or not.

Offline montmil

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Re: ATE Brake Torque
« Reply #5 on: September 19, 2012, 01:21:04 PM »
Quote
OK Monte I give in what's FAA's TLAR - got to be something to do with aviation

You are correct, Barry. And, considering the source, you've probably already guessed it's a joke.

I once made an official gubmint-looking sign and hung it in my hangar. The sign stated:

This aircraft was constructed to Federal Aviation Standard TLAR

Occasionally, some self-annointed, know-it-all, non-flying aviation "expert" PITA would walk in uninvited, poke around in my stuff and subtly read the sign. Eventually, when he could stand it no longer, he'd ask the question. Answer...

That Looks About Right

As I had built and flown my own aircraft -two-actually- these armchair pilot wannabes could be annoying prigs, what with their "expert" opinions on how things should be done. Thank god, they rarely returned.
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet